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'71 250, '78 450SLC 5.0, '78 450SL, '81 380SLC 5.6, '89 260E, '15 Kia Sorento
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5,269 Posts
I've had the engine in and out of the car so many times its almost second nature. I'd pull the engine and be done with it.

I'm not recommending this only suggesting that you think about this as an option if you've got the tools and possibly some engine work that would be easier with the engine out.

I hate to be working around a car on jack stands and having the engine out reduces the risk substantially.

Just a few thoughts...
I've been contemplating pulling the engine on my car to make it easier to do all the rust repair I have to do. Is it something a novice can do and how long should I expect it to take?
 

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380SL diesel
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1,284 Posts
I've been contemplating pulling the engine on my car to make it easier to do all the rust repair I have to do. Is it something a novice can do and how long should I expect it to take?
It takes me 4 hours to pull mine. It's fairly simple - just methodically unhook everything and lift it out. The first time it wil take quite a bit of time because you'll be figuring everything out...exactly how much depends on you and how many friends you have. :)

You'll need a 2ton engine hoist and a leveling bar. The engine/trans needs to be at close to a 45 degree angle to clear the front radiator support then leveled again as you slide everything forward and out. One trick that can literally save hours is to remove the worthless hand crank and weld a big nut on the end of the leveling bar screw, and then use a BIG electric drill to tilt the engine.

For an extensive rust repair project it would probably be worth it.
 

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1987 560SL
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406 Posts
I changed my subframe mounts and engine mounts on my back with the car on jack stands. I did control arm bushings and lower ball jts along with the tie rods, steering damper and idler arm bushings while I was at it. I almost forgot to mention the new shocks. It really wasn't bad.

My philosophy is "Don't remove anything that's not required to get the job done."
 

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1984 380SL, 2006 E350
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433 Posts
I used some scrap steel to make my own, supporting it on the fenders with a couple of pieces of angle iron. The fenders had no problem supporting the weight. My weak link was the hook supporting the engine eye. I wound up using a bent piece of 5/16" all thread and that was fine. Thread is here.
Dropping the subframe - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Matt.
 

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1984 380SL, 1973 450SLC
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2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I used some scrap steel to make my own, supporting it on the fenders with a couple of pieces of angle iron. The fenders had no problem supporting the weight. My weak link was the hook supporting the engine eye. I wound up using a bent piece of 5/16" all thread and that was fine. Thread is here.
Dropping the subframe - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Matt.
I didn't a pic of the support??????????????

Think I'm going to get the one rowdie posted, but will check at work tomorrow to see if anyone has one.......... then I will modify it....................

thanks to all again....

RC
 

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1984 380SL, 2006 E350
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433 Posts
Rock, Post 6 in the thread I posted. Here's a couple more. I don't have any that show the all-thread hook supporting the engine but it was threaded through one of the holes in the diagonal brace (punched channel) above the lifting eye. I used washers and a nut to tension it before dropping the sub frame. Once the subframe was out I put a floor jack with a block of wood under the pan and snugged it up as a an added measure of precaution. The vertical leg in the 1st photo extends down and rests on the frame. It had a small plate welded to the bottom. I didn't measure anything, I just kind of put it together and welded the pieces where they seemed to fit.
 

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1984 380SL, 1973 450SLC
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2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I used the engine support beam while removing the sub frame, and I am pleased to say, it didn't harm the fenders...............:D

I covered the fenders with a soft blanket, bought two kitty litter bags, good ones with mesh bags. I placed the beam directly on the bags at first, but noticed the blades of the support were compressing the kitty litter, so I placed a sheet of rubber between the blade and the bag to help displace the load, and it worked great...

It supported the engine for three days while I finished the sub frame. I will say I was relieved to see no damage to the fenders...........

I removed the shocks, and installed an eyebolt into the upper hole, used a strap to support the sub frame while I removed the attach bolts. I dropped it by myself, seems friends are hard to find when there is work to be done.

Looks like the engine mounts were the worst of the bunch..

What a difference in the ride, I guess I put that job off toooooooo long..

RC
 

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'85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
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1,553 Posts
That's on my "to do" list. I have the same engine hanger. Don't the blades fit over the inner fenders (the seam where the edge of the hood resides)?
 

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1984 380SL, 1973 450SLC
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2,177 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
.



^ Yeah, I'm still not understanding why Tom used the fender proper rather than the inner/outer seam.
I didn't see anything there that I thought would support it. that I could trust. Unlike most other vehicles??????????????????

I tried to rotate the pics but can't...........

RC
 

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