[rimutakaman]

I purchased a used C300 two months ago and the motor blew last week. I assure you I have no recourse but to put a new motor in the car. While I am sure plenty of good hearted people are inclined to suggest that either I go back to the dealer or to question whether the motor is truly a lost cause, please be assured, I appreciate those thoughts, but simply put, I need to replace the motor. It is seized and through no fault of the dealer. It is just an unlucky break in life for me -- simple as that and I need to move forward.

So I am hoping someone on here can help me out. I am leaning towards putting a motor in myself. I know it will be a bear of a project, but I'm newly married and I have a wife and son that count on me, so I can't see paying someone thousands of dollars when I am capable of doing it myself.

My questions:
1. Does anyone have the WIS for the engine replacement procedure?

2. My C300 has the flex fuel option. Does anyone know if I have the option of replacing the motor with one that does not have the flex fuel option and only runs on unleaded gasoline? Or do I need to purchase a flex fuel motor? I have been searching for the flex fuel motors but they are difficult to come by. I prefer to drop in a straight naturally aspirated motor.

3. My C300 is the 4matic model. I see many of the motors listing whether they are RWD or AWD. Does this make a difference? I have looked at pulled motors that are RWD and AWD and it seems to me the difference resides in the transmission -- not the motor. It appears the flywheel area on a RWD motor and an AWD motor are the same.

Please refrain from beating me up on this post while I'm already down by suggesting I take the car to a repair shop. I certainly appreciate any insight anyone can offer. Thank you! :smile

 

[mattml430]

I say good on you for having a go. I would be a little weary of sticking a different engine in as the ECU's are so finally tuned to the engine they are running. I agree most AWD and RWD engines are the same. What year model is the car?


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[rimutakaman]

Thanks for chiming in. You're right - I need to adjust my profile. It is a 2011 C300 4Matic 3.0 Flex Fuel. It has 71,000 miles on it.

Thanks for your thoughts on my AWD/RWD question. I do not think the motor has anything to do with the drive train. I believe that all of the places that sell motors just include the drive train just to include what car the motor came from -- but I do not think that information is relevant to a motor replacement. Having said all that, I found one motor that has all my car's specs (3.0, 4matic, flex fuel) and it has 51,000 miles on it . . . and it's within driving distance to where I live. So I am really focusing in on purchasing that one for $2,800 USD.

I am going to purchase the Startek repair manual to use for "how-to" aspect of the project.

You bring up a good point about the ECU programming once the new motor is installed. I am going to specifically look to see what Startek says about ECU programming when undergoing a motor replacement.

Again, I appreciate your input. Even bouncing thoughts around helps, as you have now pointed out to me to consider the ECU calibration.

 

[mattml430]

If you have found an engine the same that is great it should make it a straight swap. You shouldn't have any ECU troubles now. If it's out of a different class you may need to change mounts and a view different things but can be pulled off your original engine. Double check all your sensor P/N with your original engine. I did a swap on a ML63 engine from an E63 engine. I had to change sumps,oil pump timing chains and so on. Even though they are basically the same engine. So just be aware of some things that can be different throughout models. Also I would recommend using your original wiring harness if you can. Good luck with the swap over hope it goes well.


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[rimutakaman]

That's encouraging to hear that you did a swap, and even when you put in a different engine, it sounds like things went rather smoothly. Great suggestion about checking the sensors' P/N. I'll definitely do that before the install. I'll let you know how it goes. I appreciate you chiming in on this.

 

[Daddy123]

Thanks for chiming in. You're right - I need to adjust my profile. It is a 2011 C300 4Matic 3.0 Flex Fuel. It has 71,000 miles on it.

Thanks for your thoughts on my AWD/RWD question. I do not think the motor has anything to do with the drive train. I believe that all of the places that sell motors just include the drive train just to include what car the motor came from -- but I do not think that information is relevant to a motor replacement. Having said all that, I found one motor that has all my car's specs (3.0, 4matic, flex fuel) and it has 51,000 miles on it . . . and it's within driving distance to where I live. So I am really focusing in on purchasing that one for $2,800 USD.

I am going to purchase the Startek repair manual to use for "how-to" aspect of the project.

You bring up a good point about the ECU programming once the new motor is installed. I am going to specifically look to see what Startek says about ECU programming when undergoing a motor replacement.

Again, I appreciate your input. Even bouncing thoughts around helps, as you have now pointed out to me to consider the ECU calibration.

Every time you remove a bolt take a photo. It saves days when it comes to putting it together again.
Also a good time to replace all the rubber hoses flush radiator. Renew the brake fluid diff replace gearbox filter and oil. Should then give you years of trouble free motoring

 

[rimutakaman]

Good point! It didn't cross my mind to take photos, but that's a great idea.

I'll also look into taking care of some of those maintenance items you mentioned. It will be a lot easier to address those items now during the motor change.

 

[Eva89]

I have a 2007 C280 4MATIC with the 3.0L V6, and I also had to replace the engine in my car earlier this year (but that was due to the faulty balance shaft issue the 06 and 07 engines had). While I'm capable of changing the engine myself, I did pay an independent shop to do the motor swap, and they charged me $1400 labor and parts (fluids, etc). Anyway, my mechanic said that it wasn't that bad of a job, compared to other engine swaps that he has done.

I see your location listed as New York. Might I suggest you try Don's Auto Mall in Binghamton NY for an engine? That is where I got mine. I'm located in NE PA in the Poconos region. The price was very fair - not the lowest - but they offer a standard 6 month warranty, and up to 3 year warranty if you wanted to pay a little extra. I'm not affiliated with them at all, just trying to help you find the right engine! My mechanic recommended them to me.

Good luck!

 

[rimutakaman]

I thought I'd update this post. I swapped the engine last summer and the car is back to life and running strong again. It was one hell of a job, but financially, it was worth it. Eva89 - I appreciate the note about Don's Auto Mall. That's where I purchased the motor from. It was a flex fuel AWD motor with 41K on it for $1800. I verified this by running a Carfax to see what mileage the car had when it was totaled. FYI: AWD and RWD motors are not the same when it comes to mounting points.

Just using common sense and taking my time, all went well. Mattml430: I appreciate the encouragement you provided just to do the job. It is difficult to tell through the computer, but that bit of encouragement was what I needed, because I was feeling like a man stranded on his own island (particularly after no shops around me were willing to do the job).

I took Daddy123's advice and bagged and labeled everything that came off the car; I didn't have any left-over bolts when I was done. The only mistake I made was I let the new motor bang into the power steering rack when I dropped it in, and consequently, one of the power steering lines began leaking ever so slightly. I decided to change out the power steering rack while I was at it.

I left the transmission in the car and disconnected the AC unit from the original motor, but kept the system sealed so I wouldn't need to deal with recharging the system later. No programming of the ECU was needed. I used my original wiring harness because the person who removed the motor cut wires unnecessarily.

Only one special tool was required for the motor mounts. They are difficult to access so a special wrench is needed. I also took the time to replace all fluids and the serpentine belt.

These are the major steps:
1. Remove radiator (do not remove AC condenser)
2. Remove alternator
3. Disconnect the power steering pump from the motor but do not remove from the car, nor loosen any of the lines. Leave it sealed.
4. Disconnect the air conditioning compressor from the motor but do not remove from the car, nor loosen any of the lines. Leave it sealed.
5. Remove the top bolt on the motor mounts. There is one motor mount on each side of the motor. A special wrench is needed.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness at the main connection point at the ECU.
7. Remove all bolts that mount the transmission to the motor.
8. Disconnect the exhaust where it mounts to the right header and left header. Let the exhaust hang out of the way.
9. Unplug the O2 sensor wires.
10.Remove the 4 bolts at the front of the propeller shaft.
11.Remove the torque converter access plug and remove the 3 bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel.

I know this is simplified, but hopefully it gives anyone who is thinking of changing out a motor of the central considerations. The car has 8,000 miles on it since the swap and you'd never be able to tell it isn't the original motor.

 

[glk_black]

wow great job on that engine swap.

 

[Jstruest]

Newbie

Okay I’m new to the forum and I have a w211 I know different car but what I wanted to know is this, you mentioned that the 4matic engines are different the their Rwd counterparts. Exactly how different are they?
Let’s say I have the 3.5 4matic (uses 3l of engine oil every 300-400 Km’s:crying) and want to put in a motor from a rwd and keep the same 4matic transmission, that isn’t possible? Or is it?
Also my original motor has over 260k km:grin

 

[wjs1320]

I'm about to start the same project in a C300 4matic, going to try and take it from the top as well. Any advice or information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wjs1320]

c300 engine swap

I'm about to undertake the exact same job, any additional information or advice you could provide would be appreciated.. Thank you very much..

 

[Samsam2020]

I thought I'd update this post. I swapped the engine last summer and the car is back to life and running strong again. It was one hell of a job, but financially, it was worth it. Eva89 - I appreciate the note about Don's Auto Mall. That's where I purchased the motor from. It was a flex fuel AWD motor with 41K on it for $1800. I verified this by running a Carfax to see what mileage the car had when it was totaled. FYI: AWD and RWD motors are not the same when it comes to mounting points.

Just using common sense and taking my time, all went well. Mattml430: I appreciate the encouragement you provided just to do the job. It is difficult to tell through the computer, but that bit of encouragement was what I needed, because I was feeling like a man stranded on his own island (particularly after no shops around me were willing to do the job).

I took Daddy123's advice and bagged and labeled everything that came off the car; I didn't have any left-over bolts when I was done. The only mistake I made was I let the new motor bang into the power steering rack when I dropped it in, and consequently, one of the power steering lines began leaking ever so slightly. I decided to change out the power steering rack while I was at it.

I left the transmission in the car and disconnected the AC unit from the original motor, but kept the system sealed so I wouldn't need to deal with recharging the system later. No programming of the ECU was needed. I used my original wiring harness because the person who removed the motor cut wires unnecessarily.

Only one special tool was required for the motor mounts. They are difficult to access so a special wrench is needed. I also took the time to replace all fluids and the serpentine belt.

These are the major steps:
1. Remove radiator (do not remove AC condenser)
2. Remove alternator
3. Disconnect the power steering pump from the motor but do not remove from the car, nor loosen any of the lines. Leave it sealed.
4. Disconnect the air conditioning compressor from the motor but do not remove from the car, nor loosen any of the lines. Leave it sealed.
5. Remove the top bolt on the motor mounts. There is one motor mount on each side of the motor. A special wrench is needed.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness at the main connection point at the ECU.
7. Remove all bolts that mount the transmission to the motor.
8. Disconnect the exhaust where it mounts to the right header and left header. Let the exhaust hang out of the way.
9. Unplug the O2 sensor wires.
10.Remove the 4 bolts at the front of the propeller shaft.
11.Remove the torque converter access plug and remove the 3 bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel.

I know this is simplified, but hopefully it gives anyone who is thinking of changing out a motor of the central considerations. The car has 8,000 miles on it since the swap and you'd never be able to tell it isn't the original motor.

How Did you remove the last hard to access bolt between the transmission and engine without dropping the subframe?

Thank you for any insight you can provide.

 

[buyingconstant7]

Reviving a dead horse, however I have a 2013 C350 4Matic. Also needs an engine. After an oil change at the dealer, about a day later there was a huge rattle from the top end on cold start which progressed an hour later into a knocking sound followed by an engine light. I confirmed there was oil in the car and full, and filter wasn't installed wrong. I think I just got bad luck. I was pulling the car around the back of my property to await a diagnosis for when I had time, which is only a few hundred yards, and it didn't even make it into second gear until she went BANG and shut off. Can't even hear a starter click. My timing chain tensioners probably went. Would've been lovely to catch it sooner but oh well, time for a new engine. Done engine swaps on Volkswagens, 1500 GM trucks, Fords and Chryslers. A benz is new to me but I'm up for the challenge. I have an engine crane and a long shop, but no hoist. This thread gave me confidence to yank the engine from the top. Will update if anyone's interested. Process hopefully won't take much longer than a couple weeks. I'll be starting in a few days.