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I was wondering if anyone had any details regarding removing the engine on my 97 sl500. I purchased it cheap with a blown head gasket (before anyone asks yes it’s 100% a blown head gasket). I compared the labor times of the cylinder head removal and engine removal and figured it be simpler to just replace the entire engine. Any help would be much appreciated!
 

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I was wondering if anyone had any details regarding removing the engine on my 97 sl500. I purchased it cheap with a blown head gasket (before anyone asks yes it’s 100% a blown head gasket). I compared the labor times of the cylinder head removal and engine removal and figured it be simpler to just replace the entire engine. Any help would be much appreciated!
If you're doing the job yourself I'd pull the head and hope it's just a gasket.:nerd
 

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Unless it's got a gajillion miles, I'd be most inclined to repair the engine the car came with.
Doing that head job on an engine stand might be easier than in the car. I don't know, others here should.
But when I was looking for a repair manual for mine, those weren't available, but I could find access to them online on a subscription basis.
If it were me, just stuffing in a different motor and praying for the best, would be the last resort I'd go with.
 

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Rex, welcome to the forum, and thank you for your post.

I hope you can see your post as the new format of the forum has fell on our laps, and I guess we got to live with it now.

The biggest pain in the butt is dealing with the A/C compressor when removing the engine, but doing the head gaskets is alot of parts to deal with, and one hopes the cylinder walls are not damaged, or the piston(s) do not have a hole, or the cylinder(s) lost compression, or a oil-ring is shot, or damage to connecting rod bearings.

My two-cents to your delema is to change the engine out over doing the heads as these engines are cheap, and are cheaper out in the West Coast. I would do this since you purchased a car with a blown head gasket, and it was not you car to begin with.

I do not know where you are going to purchase your replacement engine, but you can get them from a parts puller, or go to a self-service junk yard, and pay a fraction of the price. This Labor Day weekend most self serve junk yards will have long blocks for $100. With taxes and fees along with 12 month warranty for $200 out the door. I just did a car a week ago where it was a self-service engine, and it was $186 out the door, but you got to test and pull the engine out your self, or pay the $500-$1500 for a pulled engine with in most cases a 3 month warranty. Your call there??

The self serve yards for M119 engine





Full service yard for engines


I think you are limited to 1998 R129's because i think 1999 had M113 engines, but your range is 1996-1998 in the R129, and using the W140 M119 may work, but the accessory brackets may be different, and the oil pan will probably be different too on the W140.

It may practical to get a low mile engine, and not worry about timing chain replacement along with the chain guides, and chain tentioner.

I would replace rear main engine seal which it will force you to replace the adhesive on the rear seal plate cover, and clean those mating surfaces several times. I did the cleaning over six times with denatured alcohol(sold at home centers). Clean the bolt pocket threads with swabs and alcohol a few times too, and clean the screw threads a few times too. Use high temperature/high vibration loctite. I use 242, and apply it to the screw pocket not the bolt threads. Use only Mercedes sealant

Mercedes Part number 003-989-98-20-10 for the Loctite 5970

I like to disassemble the stuff one forgets to do:

Torque Converter Bolts, their are six bolts in three-point star. Two at each point which are 13mm.

Only turn the engine clockwise with you facing the engine. It takes a 27mm socket to turn the engine.

The M119 engine has a plate of aluminum plate cover(opposite side of the starter). Remove it as it will get in the way. It is held on with two 5mm hex allen key bolt. This cover will get in the way.

Disconnect the main engine harness.

Disconnect the rear hose going to the heater core

The motor mounts have two-bottom bolts each which are 13mm.


I would replace the torque converter seal on the transmission. On the torque converter seal and rear engine seal only use Mercedes seals from the dealer as some aftermarket seals may not have the life.

Martin
 
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