1983 380 SL
The front cover won't come off until you remove the oil pump chain. In order to get the oil pump chain off you'll need to pull the pan. At least that's the way it was on my 380.More table space set up.
Removed the rocker arms.
This was a good investment.
Next I decided to get the dip stick tube out of the way.
It came out easier than expected.
Then the tensioner.....
Using a strong magnet to ensure the chain circlips don't go missing.
Releasing the cam shaft bolts.
Removing the chain guides, these ones are ten years old.
Not much wear.
Refreshing my memory before taking the heads off.
First head, cylinders 5 to 8.
Other head, cylinders 1 to 4, you can see cylinder 1 which had the valve guide problem has the most build up and is oily.
Surprisingly, it also has the cleanest piston???
The bores all look in reasonable condition with the cross hatching still visible to some degree.
Curved guide removed.
That's it for today.
I did try to remove the front cover, all the bolts are out but it didn't want to come off so I will investigate more tomorrow. Perhaps the oil pan needs to come off first.
How were the head bolts to remove? Mine were surprisingly easy.
I love that yellow tray for the cam and lifters. Where did you get it? I used paper cups.
It's weird seeing crosshatch on the cylinder walls. There is no crosshatch on 380 alloy engine. Well... except for my #6 where I had a sleeve installed... that one has crosshatch.
I don't envy you your cleanup job... I'm assuming you will clean everything... right?