Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
'92 400E - 120k
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have an M119, '92 400E, just hit 120k. Runs great, feels like it's still got more power than my aunt's XJR. Absolutely love it - the look, performance, luxury, and most important - the quality. Just don't make 'em like they used too. I imagine I'm gonna be needing a new head gasket soon, so I wanna get a list of things ready on what my local MB shop should do while the head's apart. I noticed most people that have their head gasket replaced, also have some other things done under the hood. Head "refreshing", as it was called on another thread. I remember some people talking about valve guides, valve job, seals, etc... Anyone got any specifics on what I need done, or any suggestions? Don't really have a budget, as long as it's under the cost of a brand new MB lol. Thanks in advance guys:)
 

·
Registered
W124 400E, W126 500SE
Joined
·
971 Posts
I doubt you will have to do any engine work in the next 100k :) mine has 320k (km), no engine work, no problems. Don't work on the engine until something is wrong (tappet noise, valves, compression etc.)
The only thing that might be lurking in the is the engine electrical harness... it gets old with time, not miles, so be ready to replace it (though I have now noticed your car is '92 - so you may be lucky and not affected by this problem).

Btw any major engine overhaul will probably cost more than another engine (including the "comes with the rest of the car" spare engine :)). If done right I'd expect something like $5K in parts alone - makes no sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,344 Posts
Why are you imagining you'll need a head gasket soon? 119 motors typically don't have head gasket problems, ever. They also typicallly don't have valve problems, ever. If you're just looking for something to worry about, worry about the timing chain, i.e. upper guides and tensioner.
 

·
Premium Member
About a dozen 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1991 sedans, wagons, 4Matics and 1 coupe
Joined
·
5,454 Posts
^ Ditto that ^

The M119 V8 doesn't have the same issues that the M103 and M104 inline 6 cylinders have. Just keep up with the oil changes and coolant flush/refills and don't overheat it.
 

·
Registered
'92 400E - 120k
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That's great news.

Didn't know that guys, just figured they go after a while like on the 300E's, thanks alot. And to the first reply, I was aware of the harness issue before I bought the car and according to the service records it had never been replaced, had the MB dealership check it to see if the insulation was even starting to warp, turns out it's in like new condition. So I imagine I'm not affected by it, but I'll keep an eye on it just in case. Seeing as I don't need a new head gasket, I'll start running synthetic, and replace any leaky seals that may appear after the switch from dino to syn. Then go ahead and use ZMax, Seafoam it, then change the tranny fluid+filter. Within the next two months, I'm having the whole timing system as well as the water pump replaced, along with common tuneup parts such as filters, rotors, wires, plugs, etc. I do need new air intake breather hoses, but that's about all that's wrong with the engine. Thanks again guys:)
 

·
Registered
W124 400E, W126 500SE
Joined
·
971 Posts
no ZMax
no Seafoam
no additives

so says the mighty manufacturer, and so say I. The only thing I'm ever going to put in my engine is the Toyota injector cleaner (it is the only thing that does more than placebo - and toyota is the only manufacturer that makes it's own cleaner and puts it to its own cars under warranty, so it MUST be proven practically).

Why do you want to switch to synthetic? And what do you call synthetic? There is nothing like mineral or synthetic engine oil anymore, its more or less a mix of both, sometimes being "100% synthetic" for the hype. Just put in the correct specs oil (can be synthetic). Those engines work quite happily with most common ordinary 10W40 oils, just make sure it meets the standard (not sure of the number though). I put Fuchs CFE in all the cars and no problems...

Changing timing chain and rails at 120k miles sounds like having too much money. Don't fix something that isn't broken...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,344 Posts
The nylon chain guides are more of age thing than miles, now 17 years old in this car. It sounds like he wants to do something - that would be my first, especially if the car is driven hard.
 

·
Registered
'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
Joined
·
1,252 Posts
or perhaps donate some of that money that is burning a hole in his pocket to the mountainredneck fund...
 

·
Registered
'92 400E - 120k
Joined
·
153 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
ahahah...

First off, if you guys wanna make some extra money on the side and buy that new Brabus C63 AMG, legally, lol, there's a program called FAP Turbo, which is a Forex trading robot. And no, I don't work for the company, I'm just saying, it works, and is not a scam. Or, there's something called hard labor - have a relative who owns a casino and detail all the $120k M6's and Maserati's and you'll end up making some pretty good money, you just have to have absolutely no life and live for cars. That would be me for both :) And secondly, Mobil 1 0W-40 is the same oil that's used OEM for Mercedes-Benz AMG, Porsche, and Aston Martin to name a few. Also, I still can't believe how many old schoolers there are that still will argue that conventional oil is just as good as synthetic oil. I think of conventional oil as being a time bomb for your engine. Example: My grandfather is truly one of those said "old schoolers". Has a 1984 BMW 325e, bought brand new, has 144k on it, driven in the summer months only. Ran recomended conventional oil in it since it was new, had "Ivan the mechanic" work on it since new as well. Well, after getting it out of storage last month, started it up, sure enough, blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. I wonder why. His reply? It's old, what do you expect. My reply? Should've ran synthetics. I realize in 1984 the technology wasn't as good as today, esp. for oils, but still. It should've been converted to synthetic a while ago and Seafoamed every 15k, and he wouldn't have had to pay $2700 for a valve job. Conventional oil is just a constant producer of sludge, which destroys seals in the engine. My plan for my 400E is to put 0W-40 in it, Seafoam it, TWICE, ZMax it just for the hell of it, then if it leaks oil or loses more than say a quart an oil change, I'll take it back to the dealership and have all the seals replaced. If it had synthetics since the day it was new in 1992, 120k later, I wouldn't have this problem. Not that I'm saying I will have to replace seals... you never know. No seafoaming, no ZMaxing, no anything besides oil changes every 3k and a clean engine. Also, I can't see why anyone would advise against the use of Seafoam, unless they just didn't wanna see the problems with the engine that Seafoam reveals, and all the bad seals, which were a result of NOT USING SYNTHETIC OIL and Seafoaming every 15k. Zviratko: show me one test that says Seafoam is NOT beneficial to engines and I won't use it. And sure, maybe Mercedes-Benz say "don't use any additives" or whatever, but that clearly states with the use of Mercedes-Benz approved synthetic oil. And besides, it's composed of petroleum, completely harmless. If the previous owner had taken it to the dealership for every oil change, I wouldn't have to Seafoam it because it would be clean, carbon-free, due to the use of SYNTHETIC OILS Mercedes-Benz recommends and uses. If it destroys the engine, I honestly could care less, I'll just get a new one. But personally, I don't believe in putting a date on the day my engine's gonna "die" by using conventional, sludgy old oil Tell you what though, you message me when your car reaches 500k with no seal leaks with the use of conventional oil, and then I'll switch to whatever you've been using. Until then, I'll trust the advice of German Engineering :) Also, I live in Central New York. If I put 10W-40 oil in my car, let alone conventional instead of synthetic, I might as well be putting frozen syrup in. I don't drive the car in weather below 32F, that's what the Range Rover's for. But just in case I do someday, I'll trust my high-flowing, 0W-40 synthetic. Here's some links, Zviratko, for you to read up sometime when you're not out driving your ticking time bomb known as you're engine on conventional oil:thumbsup: Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic Oil Synthetic Oil - Castrol Synthetic Oil Synthetic Oils FAQs
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top