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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello BW, first time posting.
I'm working to restore a W140 95 S320 LWB.
Here's what I've covered so far

Went over all fuses and relays and made sure they were ok, I replaced 1 fuse #23 in the front,
I checked the CKS seems to be working (even if I can get ohm reading, could it still be bad?)
I did find that the wiring harness had been mickey moused hacked and whoever did the chop job broke off the CPS, it's been crazy glued, would this still work or do I need to get a new sensor.
Would you recommend just redoing the harness with a new one?
I checked Fuel Pump Relay and Fuel Pump it gets power 12v when cranks
but still no start and I checked the Fuel Rail and no fuel there, the regulator seems to be working fine (no fuel spitting out)

I've come to this conclusion, I first need to replace the engine harness
Then if I still have no fuel pressure replace the fuel pump and filter?
Then replace CPS and CKS?

I've searched and scoured and it seems like many different things.
Thanks in advance
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #3
yes sir, checked all the fuses, under hood, grave box, trunk, relays are all good.
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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If you get power going to the pump when you crank then the crankshaft position sensor is working but the pump is not.
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you yoda from china, I was looking at the pumps (didn't know this year had 2 of them) but one of the top pumps looked like an explosion took place, and when I turned the key to crank I hear a loud whoosh of air like something is leaking, perhaps the lack of pressure? I should replace both of them right? just to be safe and also the filter?
Thanks for your help people.
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,804 Posts
Thank you yoda from china, I was looking at the pumps (didn't know this year had 2 of them) but one of the top pumps looked like an explosion took place, and when I turned the key to crank I hear a loud whoosh of air like something is leaking, perhaps the lack of pressure? I should replace both of them right? just to be safe and also the filter?
Thanks for your help people.
Yes change them both and the filter, also check all the pipes for wear.
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #7
Hello, I finally changed out the fuel filter and the fuel pumps. Now the pumps are priming and there is fuel pressure, but it just cuts out after starting, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. I decided to check DTC codes at the diagnostic box under hood. When checking the LH/SFI Module, I get pretty much ALL the fault codes, does this mean 1)wiring is probably fried and nothing is reading so engine is running like crap
or
2) the LH/SFI module dead and needs replaced.
I have ordered a new wiring harness to replace the terrible job someone tried to do on a rebuild. Hoping the new harness would eliminate all the faults in LH/SFI module

Advise?
Thanks
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,804 Posts
Hello, I finally changed out the fuel filter and the fuel pumps. Now the pumps are priming and there is fuel pressure, but it just cuts out after starting, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. I decided to check DTC codes at the diagnostic box under hood. When checking the LH/SFI Module, I get pretty much ALL the fault codes, does this mean 1)wiring is probably fried and nothing is reading so engine is running like crap
or
2) the LH/SFI module dead and needs replaced.
I have ordered a new wiring harness to replace the terrible job someone tried to do on a rebuild. Hoping the new harness would eliminate all the faults in LH/SFI module

Advise?
Thanks
If the LH/SFI was dead the engine would not run at all, what were the fault codes?
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #9
I finally got fuel pressure to the rails (replaced FPR) but still no start. I pulled the spark plug and they were wet with fuel in the cylinder.
I'm gonna try diagnosing if it's getting spark.
Should I throw in new coils and new wire set as well?
How likely is this due to Ignition Control Module being bad?
Let me know where I should go next to diagnose.
Is there a way to pull DTC from EZL unit itself?
Thanks
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #10
Finally got it to start! But it idles rough and i have 2 dtc codes
Hfm code 8 which is idle control valve
Speed control module code 2 which is connected to the idle control issue

Is this the eta wiring issue? Once i get moving the car seems to run ok but while idle if there is any load, it begins to shudder. I noticed also i hear belt squealing when there is any load during start. I tried turning he steering wheel while idling and it felt like the engine was about to die and belt began to squeal. Is this just drive belt needing replacing and the eta needing replacing?
I'm excited to see it start and it was great to drive it around the block but i would like to get it running lot better. Also there is strong fuel odor out of the tailpipe seems it's running way too rich. Probably has to do with idle control issue as well.
Hope someone can help, thanks
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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It does look like the ETA is playing up, possibly the wiring.
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #12
Eric, I'll try tackling the wiring over the week, do i need to replace the ecu for the cruise control idle control function? Or should i just work on the wiring and see if that makes difference. Also does eta need to be relearned or matched after the wiring work?
Thanks
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,804 Posts
Eric, I'll try tackling the wiring over the week, do i need to replace the ecu for the cruise control idle control function? Or should i just work on the wiring and see if that makes difference. Also does eta need to be relearned or matched after the wiring work?
Thanks
Deal with the wiring first. If you cut into the outer sleeve of the ETA wiring you will expose the inner wires and if the inner wire insulation has started cracking then it needs to be replaced. No relearn needed. Also if the ETA is dirty give it a good cleaning, unless you intend to change it.
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #14
Ok removed the ETA, cut into the wiring harness and I got cookie crumbs all over. So I guess I will have to rewire. Couple of questions, do I have to use milspec wiring to do the job right the first time? 2) do you recommend rewiring or just trying to look for a used one (which the wiring probably would have to be redone anyway?).
Thanks for your help.
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
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52,804 Posts
Ok removed the ETA, cut into the wiring harness and I got cookie crumbs all over. So I guess I will have to rewire. Couple of questions, do I have to use milspec wiring to do the job right the first time? 2) do you recommend rewiring or just trying to look for a used one (which the wiring probably would have to be redone anyway?).
Thanks for your help.
This your call, a second hand one may have the same problem, but a rewire job on this is an horrendous task. Do a search, there maybe a good diy on this if you look.
 

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01 e320 wagon
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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, I took apart the ETA, then rewired it (nightmare), when I just bench tested it, I don't get response from clutch terminals. It's suppose to give me around 0.6ohms but nothing.
I plugged it back into the car and no response. So I took it out and took a power source to the power terminals and I heard gears spinning, so I guess that means the clutch it NOT working. Does this mean I need to pretty much get another ETA unit?
Let me know thanks.
 

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Outstanding Contributor - Always Remembered, RIP
Zotye Auto 1.5T T600 2016
Joined
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52,804 Posts
Ok, I took apart the ETA, then rewired it (nightmare), when I just bench tested it, I don't get response from clutch terminals. It's suppose to give me around 0.6ohms but nothing.
I plugged it back into the car and no response. So I took it out and took a power source to the power terminals and I heard gears spinning, so I guess that means the clutch it NOT working. Does this mean I need to pretty much get another ETA unit?
Let me know thanks.
Sure looks that way.
 
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