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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Radiator plugged

T's done !
I lost a further 2 adjacent tubes. But is still small fry - still only 5%
However, it is clear that the tubes are brittle - something in the past eroded them a bit (cleaning ?) - the centre tubes are very robust by comparison.
So, a replacement radiator is on the list - really do not want to plug tubes every year or so :frown
I am going to see if I can source a core at reasonable cost from the UK or Germany before heading off to plan B.

For the record - part number is 4245000103 (part # stamped on my rad).
Or 4245000203 is the latest part # - must be an upgrade ?
Looks like about 600Euro (+shipping) for a new one - they are on a final buy - so will be NLA soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Radiator Plan B

I could not get a radiator shipped out for reasonable cost, so I decided to jump the gun and ordered a Holden (GM) racing radiator for $160 delivered.

3-core unit and core size is 615x370mm giving a total core area of .23msq.
The header tanks are larger, so overall the unit is larger than the replacement and I am confident will perform as well.

Given its larger width, I made an adapter plate (pic 1) in order to use the OEM frame. That way, nothing gets destroyed and I can always go back to the original if need be.

Did a fit check (pic2) and it clears everything. So good to go. I take it to my favorite engineering shop tomorrow to have the input/output pipes changed to suit.

All systems go !
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Hello Ben, original fan is loooong gone !
The original steel frame as per pic 1 does all the hard work. This radiator weights a LOT less than the original copper/brass unit. So the steel frame will have no trouble carrying it.

Edit: could not help myself - went out and weighed them;
old radiator = 10.6kg
new radiator = 5.6kg

I hate to think what the original fan set-up weighed - but I can recall it being seriously heavy !
So overall, a fair bit of weight saved.
 

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I think you will be right with the original fan setup removed. The heavy steel frame, plus the vibration will kill an aluminium radiator very quickly. That's a very cheap score on the radiator!!!

Cheers
Ben
 

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Discussion Starter #46
coolant filter






Radiator Coolant Filter Suits 50mm 2" Hose Sent BY Registered Post | eBay Check it once a week until you are not getting any more material coming out.
Hello Ian, I am follwing your advice and will be installing a coolant filter.
I am a bit worried about the TEFBA arrangement - looks like its sealing is less than ideal because of that half-moon arrangement. There is another inline filter that looks better in this regard.

Any experience with these ?
 

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The advantage of the Tefbas is that it it blocks up for some reason, then it has an overflow of the top of the screen. Been running them for about 8 years on my Jag, no problems other than having to replace to o-rings now and again.

The other ones do look good though.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Vibratio mounts

I think you will be right with the original fan setup removed. The heavy steel frame, plus the vibration will kill an aluminium radiator very quickly. That's a very cheap score on the radiator!!!

Cheers
Ben
Ben is correct in warning about vibration killing Al radiators. The other killer is more subtle - unequal expansion of steel vs Al. Al's thermal expansion coefficient at 22ppm is almost twice that of a typical steel (12ppm)
Rigid mounting will almost certainly kill the radiator after a couple of years.

I am therefore going to kill 2 birds with one stone using M6 Wellnuts to mount this puppy. I am going for 3 on the RHS and 2 on the LHS plus a small rubber lined platform welded onto the frame under the tank on the bottom LH corner.

That should give reasonable isolation as well as allow more than enough give to completely relieve expansion stresses.
 

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Thanks for the info on that type nut. I had just looked up Weldnut for a project a buddy was working on. Didn't find what he needed. Wellnut is a different company so now I see what he needs!

Bob
 

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When I got my RW-1, I noticed that there was some silty almost sandy sludge in the bottom of the coolant reservoir. I used some auto parts store cooling system cleaner and flushed the system. A few hundred miles later, silt in the overflow tank and cloudy coolant again. I took a sample of the coolant and found that the silt (?) would settle out after a couple of days and form and layer that was difficult to disturb on the bottom of my sample container.

Then began the research. Silt could be: Oil contamination from head gasket or oil cooler failure, silicate drop out, results of mismatched coolant, a poorly maintained cooling system, sand or sand paste from casting, etc.... So far I think I have ruled out head gasket or oil cooler failure. Bought some test strips to test for HC contamination in coolant from Accustrip - no oils detected. I still don't know what the silt is but I want it gone, I think it is affecting cooling efficiency and must be plugging things up.

A couple of coolant flushes later, less silt but still there. Recent removal of radiator shows that this stuff likes to stick to everything and mostly stay there unless there is lots of heat and agitation to move it.

Anyway, I have been thinking of filtration options to help manage the crap. I want to have the radiator boiled out but if it is just going to get contaminated again I should wait until the contaminates have gone. Next step: Coolant filters?

There seems to be A LOT of discussion about coolant filters withe the Powerstroke Furd guys, some Cummins guys, etc. They have been here before. I guess that coolant filters are very common on larger diesels. There are a lot of kits out there (none of them specific to our machines of course). One of many: Sinister Diesel External Oil Filter System with Coolant Filter For 2008-2010 6.4L Powerstroke Superduty

For engines of our size and for the space requirements that we have, it seems that a bypass filter or a filter that is placed in series with the heater core might be the best bet. Logic on the in series option is that you know when the filter gets plugged - you loose heat and no loss of cooling system performance. The bypass filter option typically puts the filter in parallel with the heater core. If the heater is set to cold, all of the coolant meant for the core just goes through the filter. If the heater is set to hot, some amount of coolant goes through the filter but most of it goes to the heater core.

Some parts:



You could make your own bypass kit pretty easily. Add a couple of 18mm x ?mm x 18mm T's to the heater core lines (3/4" x ?" x 3/4" is a little tight for the 18mm heater core lines but it will work). Just have to find a place to mount the filter.

I think the coolant specific canister style filters filter down to about 27 micrcons (?). I know that my level of silt will likely require that. I like the idea of a disposable canister style filter that can be replaced for $13.

Food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Hello JP,

Sorry to hear about your troubles ! Some years back I had a Pajero Diesel and they had similar issues - the perceived wisdom was that it was caused by incompatible coolants. They came from the factory with factory coolant and as soon as they were topped up with local product - the trouble started. Some were so bad, they formed a jelly which blocked things up no end. Some coolants do have a silicate base and that is the main issue from memory.

As much as I don't like messing with the factory setup - I think sometimes there is little choice, so a filter it is for me. I suspect, once trouble manifests itself - that is it. Getting rid of it is extremely difficult and I suspect in the case of rust that has established itself, may take years to clear out.

Moral of the story, take care of your cooling system from the start.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Radiator result

Finally it is all sorted :smile
It has been an unwanted distraction but good for the longhaul.
I ended up installing a filter in the main line as well as the heater line.
To best accommodate the big filter, I shortened the thermostat housing by about an inch - it was grotty anyway due to corrosion.
It was good to see the filter at work - there are "coffee grounds" floating around in spite of serious flushing/cleaning. I am running a weak solution of the green coolant for now, as soon as I thing the "coffee grounds" are for the most part trapped, I will clean out the filter and put in full strength coolant.
Having that window is quite good in being able to see when the thermostat opens - in my case about 80deg. It cycles open/shut for a while until the whole radiator is up to temp and then it opens fully. Then it is the fan's turn to control the running temperature.

Now I have to do some trenching and plant some fruit trees in order to get the Brownie points score back up :laugh
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I gave the Mog a good workout yesterday and checked the filter today.
Not bad - less than 1/4 of a teaspoon worth of flecks.

One thing I discovered regarding the filter - it is less than good quality. Adequate perhaps, but needs a bit of refinement. The unit should not be painted in anyway on the inside - paint has started to peel. So I removed all the paint. The unit really should have been anodised.

The threads are also not the greatest - it is obviously a diecast unit and the threads needed cleaning up. The sightglass is very rough on the ends and I cleaned that up as well - not quite polished, but close enough to not eat up the seals.

I would not be surprised if this is a copy of a higher quality unit.
Anyway - all well now.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Coolant ph

I finally got myself some ph test strips to keep an eye on things.
According to Penrite, the ph should be between 6.5 and 11.
Mine looks to be between 8 and 9 - so far so good :smile
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)
Coolant filter

Servicing the Mog after our 2k trip and I broke the filter. It was dodgy quality as previously noted and the centre pillar broke. It was brittle cast alloy and no surprise therefore.
After much agonizing and searching, I opted to replace it with a differnt in-line filter - from the good ol USofA:devil

It is simpler but better with lower restriction. I considered a by-pass style filter, but decided against it due to space and complexity. The by-pass filters like those by Donaldson and Baldwin does a good job of extending the life of the coolant and it filters much smaller particles, but I calculated it was just as cost effective as replacing the fluid every 12 months.
 

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Hi Krietpiel,

I'm looking at coolants now. I note that the ADF Unimog Engineering Instruction (2011) for radiator coolant changed from TEC-50 to the modern TEC-PGXL. I was surprised, as I thought that the common green was the best, but is seems they have gone for the fancy heavy duty propylene glycol based, low silicate, phosphate and amine free hybrid (often blue).
Apparently formulated to provide "excellent high temperature protection as well as long term corrosion protection for aluminium, Cast Iron, Brass, Copper, steel and solder. It is especially formulated for heavy vehicle application and the protection of heavy Diesel wet sleeve liners'.

I'm thinking that if the military specify it, it should be the best.

I have read that you have done a fair bit of work on coolants and was wondering if there were any issues that you can think of?

UPDATE: Just found that PGXL is $276 from Supercheap vs $78 for Nulon One Coolant from Repco. The Nulon One Concentrate seems suited to every vehicle for 10 years or 1 million kilometres according to the write up?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Hello Jason, There is a fair bit of info on this site that may help you make an informed decision;
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/2760737-coolant.html#post15464129
https://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/2367793-engine-coolant-2.html#post12143801
That PGXL seems overpriced - perhaps because Defence uses it !
I am using the Penrite 7yr product - reasonable cost and seems to work well.
If the PGXL is identical to Evans, I would be careful about using it - in fact I will not using anything that has less than 70% water in it - but, that's just me.....
 
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