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2002 C32 AMG
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I have owned my 2002 C230 Kompressor Sport Coupe for about half a year now. Bought it used with 90,000 miles. This car was previously owned by only one person. I really love the car, and take very good care of it.

Since I purchased the car I noticed it seems to have some problems starting up smoothly after sitting for a while. The problem was not all that bad, but recently it seems to be getting worse. During the beginning it would just take longer to crank up on cold starts, but now it has been dying out slightly after cranking up on cold start. Granted it is getting colder here in southern North America.

The car will take longer to crank up on cold starts as usual, but after the engine is running, about half a second later, you can hear hesitation, and the RPM's start to drop down towards the 500 range. I think after this happens the ECU kicks it back up to the usual 1000-1300 RPM warm up area.

I had hoped this was possibly the spark plugs going bad, being that the car is nearly to the 100k suggested plug replacement. At just about 96,000 miles right now. So yesterday, I purchased the Mercedes-Benz NGK R (A 003 159 97 03) spark plugs, and changed them out myself. The old plugs really didn't look all that bad, but definitely had some corrosion, and wear on them.

I was upset to find that it didn't solve my problems with the cold start issues, and was wondering if anyone on this forum knows what the problem could be. Maybe it's just normal for this car to have hesitation during cold starts. By the way, the car has the 111 engine, and not the 271. I guess first year early production started with a different engine than the rest of the years, because at the dealership the parts associate confirmed my guess that it was infact the 271 engine. I later found in my owners manual that it is the 111 engine.

The only services performed by the previous owner at the dealership was two FSS, and a repair for, "Broken lifting bracket".

Matt G.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Buellwinkle, thank you for the reply. The cold start issues seem to be getting worse everyday, so I hope to get the MAF cleaned up on my C230KSC soon. I was reading about cleaning the MAF a few weeks ago. Bought some CRC MAF Cleaner after reading up on it and cleaned the MAF on both my brothers truck, and my friends car. So, I know how to clean the MAF now, and what it looks like.

The only problem is that it doesn't seem like the MAF on my car can be easily removed. The sensors electrical connector comes off easily, but after that it seems like one solid piece of plasic, and there are no torx bolts visible. Just to make sure that this is my MAF I'm going to post a picture I took of it. I'm basically 99% sure it is, but would like to verify.

The other picture I'm going to include is of a tube within the engine that appears to have either been marked with automotive tape, or sealed by it, because a leak was found on the line. The tape is green, and is not on the tube very well anymore. Probably put on there years ago.

If someone can tell me what tube this is, and it's function I would appreciate it. My guess is one of the vacuum lines. Also, any information on how to remove the MAF would be great. I haven't searched the R170 forum yet, so maybe there is a thread with information on that section of the forum. I hope to get this done soon, and see if it fixes the problem.

Matt G.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Today at work I ran the car real quick during my lunch break, and it started up without any problems. It's four and a half hours after the start of work until lunch break. Was a cold night to. Five hours later when I got off work the car started with a lot of hesitation. The starter got the engine cranked, and then it hesitated as it has been, but to the extent of the starter having to re-crank the engine.

I don't see how less than a hour more of sitting could make the engine much colder than it was when I started it on the lunch break. I have a feeling the MAF cleaning is not going to stop the problem, although I'm still going to clean it once I get a reply on how to remove the sensor. The reason I think it will not help is the car starts up fine when it is warm. It seems fast when I'm driving, and doesn't hesitate at all. I've never drove another C230KSC though, so I would have no idea how a perfect condition engine on this car feels.

I searched for about two hours yesterday after posting, and didn't find any exact information on how it is removed. From what I was reading I think the MAF is one solid piece, and the entire housing has to be removed from the air inlet piping. Is this true, or did I miss something? The two other vehicles I cleaned the MAF on just unscrewed right off of the MAF sensor housing.

The other picture I'm going to include is of a tube within the engine that appears to have either been marked with automotive tape, or sealed by it, because a leak was found on the line. The tape is green, and is not on the tube very well anymore. Probably put on there years ago.

If someone can tell me what tube this is, and it's function I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Matt G.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
After reading your post I went a looked all over the air piping, and there is no other sensor that is visible by just looking at what can be seen normally in the engine.

On what I believe is the MAF for my car there is a part number, and manufacturer company name. The part number is, "A 111 094 01 48", as far as I could tell. It was really hard to read the small faded text. The company name was a lot easier to read. It being, "Siemens".

I searched the part number on google, and came up with one link that was english. This led me to an old ebay auction.

MERCEDES AIR MASS FLOW METER CLK 8ET009142-331*5WK9613 su eBay.it Mercedes-Benz, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles

The photograph sure does look like exactly what is in my vehicle. I really do think this is my MAF, and now I just need to get any information on how you take it off to clean it. Maybe it was relocated by the previous owner?

Matt G.
 

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Matt,


Your MAF is located in between those hoses as you have pictured above. I took mine out, very simple, and sprayed it with electrical parts cleaner spray and plugged it back in. Just be carful with the sensors on it and let in dry for at least 20 seconds before placing it back into the hose. Pm me if you need any help.
 

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I have an '03 C240 with the 2.8 V6. I was having a similar problem where the engine would die when cold if placed in gear too soon after starting. I would have to let it idle for 60-90 seconds before it would stay running while shifting into gear. It was fine once warmed up, or when ambient temperature was above 50 or so (such as in the garage). The dealer found an updated fuel mapping program and updated the ecm. Problem solved for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Today I finally got the MAF cleaned. As I thought, the entire MAF unit is one solid piece. To get the sensor housing off of the air inlet piping is a little tricky, but not very hard at all. You need to remove the two internal torx screws that connect the MAF sensor housing to the piping, and the external torx bolt that connects the piping to the end of the air filter housing. There is almost no "play" to the piping if you do not remove the external torx bolt, and I don't think it would be possible to get the sensor housing off. After the external torx bolt is removed there is lots of room to move the piping forward.

There's a few other steps you need to follow to get it off, but they are straight forward, and just take common sense. I can write a DIY thread for the M111 MAF sensor removal if anyone wants. I also took pictures of the process.

The car still starts up with hesitation on cold starts, although it seems to be a little better now, but on another thread I was reading that the fuel injectors, or fuel filter could be the cause of the cold start issues. The fuel filter on my car is due for a change, and I'm sure the injectors are clogged up some.

So, here's the good, and the bad... I'll start off with the good news. Since I purchased the car it has made a wierd "chirping" (cricket like) sound for about half a second anytime I would apply the gas at all, or release the gas completely. I wrote a thread about this sound, and never got a reply as to what it could be. The sound is no longer present after cleaning the MAF sensor. My car was making a "knocking" sound while in park, or neutral, when I would give it a little gas up to 2500 RPMs, and let off. This sound was present during the rise/fall from 2000 to 1000 RPM's. The sound is also no longer present, and the car is running great.

Now for the bad news. When I took off the MAF sensor there was a little surprise in the piping. A slight coating of oil throughout the entire piping, and the MAF sensor was partially covered in oil. I really have no idea how this oil got into the piping. Do any of you know how this oil could have got into the piping, and is this a sign of a major problem?

Matt G.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
A little information I dug up on the forum searching. Not sure who is right here, but there are two opinions. Please advise...

buellwinkle said:
Air comes in the intake, through the air filter, through the s/c, through the piping to the intercooler, then out the intercooler, past the MAF sensor to the throtle body into the engine. The system at it's max boost is running 11psi from the s/c to the throtle body. There is no oil in the entire process so it had to come from outside the system but if that was possible you would have a huge leak in the tubing and then you would know it from the extreme lack of power. The only possible way I could imagine oil getting in is if someone poured oil into your intake by your grill, not likely, even then your air filter would be covered in oil. It's certainly not going to make it from your oil filter leaking all the way up to your intake.
This seems logical, because at one point in this cars life there was obviously a large oil leak within the engine bay. Maybe I should try to get a hold of the previous owner? I have his contact information, which he left in the cars manual holder.

benztech823 said:
Actually the supercharger has oil running through it, lubrication if i may. This is a problem seen on the supercharged 4 cyls, I can't say its common but I have seen it before. A seal is the supercharger could have gave way. But yeah, oil is involved in the system. And your light may not have come on depending how much came out, they do take almost 6 quarts of oil.
This seems possible to, but I'm hoping it is not what is going on. I'm going to check the air piping in about a week, and see if more oil has built up. Again, it was just a very thin layer of oil coating the entire internals of the piping.

Thanks,
Matt G.
 

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2005 C230K Sport Coupe 6-speed! And now a 2011 GLK 350 4Matic in Palladium Silver!
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If your fuel filter was the problem, if it's dirty enough to be partially plugged, then you will have a big problem bringing-up the RPM, almost like there is a restrictor in your induction plumbing. I know this because we service mine trucks where I work and we see the problem often.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
No problem with the RPM's. The car is still running great, and climbs RPM's fast. Probably takes about two, or three seconds to get to the redline on first from a dead stop. No hesitation as it climbs either. I think I will still have the fuel filter changed though. Maybe at the dealership, unless someone on this forum can inform me where it is located, or I find information searching. At the dealership I got quotes for a lot of the services I need, and the labor charge for fuel filter change is only $60 dollars. That's about half an hour of work, so I don't think it is very hard to get to, and change out. The filter itself, however, is just about $140 dollars.

Now if I only knew why the air inlet piping has a slight coating of oil. Just know the two possibilities. Really hoping that the supercharger isn't leaking any oil, and it was when the previous owner had a bad oil leak in the engine. I'm wondering if that's why he got rid of the car. What's likely to cause such a bad leak in the engine? Maybe the oil filter cap wasn't torqued right, or something.

By the way, the engine is no longer dying out on cold starts. So, it must have been the MAF sensor covered in a thin layer of oil that caused the problem. It still makes a grinding sound every once-in-a-while on cold start for around one second, and it still hesitates just a tad, but it doesn't die out after cranking. It was a cold night tonight at work, and it didn't have any problems.

In my post post on this thread I uploaded a photograph of a tube in the engine that has automotive tape on it. If anyone knows what this tube is for I would appreciate the information. The tape isn't adhered very well anymore, and I'm not sure if it's covering a leak, or was put there as a marker.

At the dealership I also asked about cleaning the fuel injectors. The SA for the service department told me they should never be manually cleaned, or replaced? I was going to take them out after researching it, and clean them. He said that the dealership only uses "Techron" fuel injector cleaner that goes into the gas tank, and they don't recommend any of the cleaner systems that hook up to a vacuum line within the engine. So, I will probably get some of the cleaner tomorrow. If they recommend it, it should work. I was always told by people never to use any of those fuel or oil additives though.

Well, long post, I think I'll end it here.

Thanks,
Matt G.
 

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No problem with the RPM's. The car is still running great, and climbs RPM's fast. Probably takes about two, or three seconds to get to the redline on first from a dead stop. No hesitation as it climbs either. I think I will still have the fuel filter changed though. Maybe at the dealership, unless someone on this forum can inform me where it is located, or I find information searching. At the dealership I got quotes for a lot of the services I need, and the labor charge for fuel filter change is only $60 dollars. That's about half an hour of work, so I don't think it is very hard to get to, and change out. The filter itself, however, is just about $140 dollars.

Now if I only knew why the air inlet piping has a slight coating of oil. Just know the two possibilities. Really hoping that the supercharger isn't leaking any oil, and it was when the previous owner had a bad oil leak in the engine. I'm wondering if that's why he got rid of the car. What's likely to cause such a bad leak in the engine? Maybe the oil filter cap wasn't torqued right, or something.

By the way, the engine is no longer dying out on cold starts. So, it must have been the MAF sensor covered in a thin layer of oil that caused the problem. It still makes a grinding sound every once-in-a-while on cold start for around one second, and it still hesitates just a tad, but it doesn't die out after cranking. It was a cold night tonight at work, and it didn't have any problems.

In my post post on this thread I uploaded a photograph of a tube in the engine that has automotive tape on it. If anyone knows what this tube is for I would appreciate the information. The tape isn't adhered very well anymore, and I'm not sure if it's covering a leak, or was put there as a marker.

At the dealership I also asked about cleaning the fuel injectors. The SA for the service department told me they should never be manually cleaned, or replaced? I was going to take them out after researching it, and clean them. He said that the dealership only uses "Techron" fuel injector cleaner that goes into the gas tank, and they don't recommend any of the cleaner systems that hook up to a vacuum line within the engine. So, I will probably get some of the cleaner tomorrow. If they recommend it, it should work. I was always told by people never to use any of those fuel or oil additives though.

Well, long post, I think I'll end it here.

Thanks,
Matt G.

Who changed your oil last? They might have put to much in there. I know it sounds kinda weird but it happend to me and the stealership said that it damaged my MAF and my PCV valve..

-J
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Who changed your oil last? They might have put to much in there. I know it sounds kinda weird but it happend to me and the stealership said that it damaged my MAF and my PCV valve..

-J
The oil level is fine. Checked it both manually, and electronically at least ten times now since I got my oil, and oil filter change about 1500 miles ago. Changed at a Wal-mart TLE under my strict supervision. Done by a friend who works there as I watched, and inspected his every move. He followed the instructions I wrote out down to every detail.

If anything happened with the oil, it was the previous owner. Like I said at some point in this cars life there was a bad oil leak within the engine bay. Can tell from the sloppy clean up job. I'm still hoping that is when the oil got into the intake tubing.

Matt G.
 

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My cold start issue...

I am having the same issue as you - but my car only has 20,000 miles on it so I am puzzled. It takes a long time to crank (only when it is cold out - sometimes not starting at all, I then have to turn the key off and back on). Once it gets started it revs like a beast... just that initial firing that seems an issue. I have experienced NO loss of power after that at all..

Help!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I am having the same issue as you - but my car only has 20,000 miles on it so I am puzzled. It takes a long time to crank (only when it is cold out - sometimes not starting at all, I then have to turn the key off and back on). Once it gets started it revs like a beast... just that initial firing that seems an issue. I have experienced NO loss of power after that at all..

Help!
My car still takes longer to crank on cold starts, but I feel that it is likely normal. Cleaning the MAF sensor completely got rid the extended crank time, and the engines hesitation after cranking. I would recommend cleaning your MAF sensor, and see if that alone solves the problem. It very well might. You would think 20k miles isn't enough for the sensor to get dirty, but it is. It's recommended to clean the MAF sensor every air filter change, which is normally at 8-12k miles.

By the way, what engine does your 03' SLK230 have?

Also, I never got a reply as to which tube this is on the engine. It's the tube with the green tape on it. If someone could please let me know, I would really appreciate it. Picture attached again on this post.

Matt G.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thought I would bring this thread back up, because the engine is starting to show signs of cold start hesitation again. Cleaning the MAFS isn't solving the problem anymore. On cold start the engine is taking around five seconds to crank. It has stalled out while cranking one of the times. The check engine light is not on.

Considering previously cleaning the MAFS seemed to solved the problem do you guys think it is time to buy a new sensor, or any other suggestions as to what could be the cause?

Thanks.
 

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2k2 c230 kompressor coupe
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i have the same problem when i turn on the car it gives a shutter like its not getting enough fuel to the engine or something of that sort im going to bring it to the dealer soon and ill let you know soon enough whats the problem so u can work around that goodluck in the meantime! btw i have a 2k2 c230 coupe
 
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