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Discussion Starter #1
There are only 2 types of cars. New Mercedes and used Mercedes.
I have used one.

Mercedes W210 E220D 1998 y.
We changed the engine.I have automatic gearbox. We just took out engine,
gearbox we left. After putting back gearbox it was hard to exactly screw together automatic gearbox with engine. But finally we manage. When it was left around 5 to 10 mm space between gearbox and engine.

The main problem ....when we was screwing engine together with gearbox...when left arround 10 mm space between automatic gearbox and engine...it was harder and harder to rotate engine manually in front with the key. When it was left space between engine and automatic gearbox 6 mmm it was really hard to rotate engine with big key.

Transmission was left in neutral. Maybe need to put in gear? Then rotate the engine and screw it together.

Why the engine started to rotate hardly? Have damaged something. Have we pressed out, moved something?


Kasper
 

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Timeship, see you yesterday, but you already knew that.
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There are only 2 types of cars. New Mercedes and used Mercedes.
I have used one.

Mercedes W210 E220D 1998 y.
We changed the engine.I have automatic gearbox. We just took out engine,
gearbox we left. After putting back gearbox it was hard to exactly screw together automatic gearbox with engine. But finally we manage. When it was left around 5 to 10 mm space between gearbox and engine.

The main problem ....when we was screwing engine together with gearbox...when left arround 10 mm space between automatic gearbox and engine...it was harder and harder to rotate engine manually in front with the key. When it was left space between engine and automatic gearbox 6 mmm it was really hard to rotate engine with big key.

Transmission was left in neutral. Maybe need to put in gear? Then rotate the engine and screw it together.

Why the engine started to rotate hardly? Have damaged something. Have we pressed out, moved something?


Kasper
You didnt line up the torque converter correctly.
 

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02 CL55 AMG Clone
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567 Posts
seems i did the same thing. i heard a thunking noise when pulling transmission and engine together last inch or so. turns out one of the two post that stick out of the bell housing was slightly damaged by incorrectly torqueing down the transmission to the bell housing on the engine. good news is, part is still usable on engine. i'm however afraid i may have also damaged by torque converter? i thought i had it snugged on very very securely (slips on over top, then turn torque converter until it slides into the gear, then tried to turn and push onto transmission more but couldnt get it on

took everything apart, engine spins freely (no dragging or scraping in the in the flywheel). transmission spline and flex disc turn just fine(while in gear, stays still in park). and i can't see any visual damage in the female spline gears inside the torque converter. is it possible i damaged something i can't visuallly see or check by turning the engine/transmission?

seems someone did this on a f body camaro online and it seems they broke to pump on the transmission spline (or atleast the gasket around it?) i don't see any visual damage on anything around the spline?

help would be appreciated as my daily driver is currently waiting for an engine/transmission
 

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93 SL500, 95 SL320, 96 S320, 98 S500, 2002 E320 4Matic Wagon & A little 91 5.0 FORD Mustang
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Kasper,

Like Mercedes Mechanic said, the alignment is off...

On the 722.6, the torque converter is tricky because of the dual flow of fluid(one from the pump and one to trigger the bands, or lock-up clutches), and the torque converter is heavy to man-handle on the shaft of the transmission. Basically, three steps-just toy with it. Eventually it will fall in.

I fiddled with one for about half hour to forty five minutes. The easy way is figure the distance the fly wheel stick-out(at where the torque converter bolts go in) to the mating surface of engine. I used two school rulers. That distance should be the inverse on the transmission side. On the transmission side, the torque converter may be 1/16" to 3/16" deeper than the measurement on the engine side.

I have found once the torque converter is on the input shaft of the transmission correctly; The engine and transmission are mated(few engine to transmission bolts installed). The torque converter can be moved with your fingers from the opening of where the torque converter bolts are screwed in.

You just need to patient here as it is really easy to damage something here

Forgot to mention, due to this torque converter being a little more complex than the previous generations. If the turbine on the engine side has a failed bearing. The inner most hole will sit low-maybe half way down or non of the hole will be visible, yet not uncommon on this torque converter. If that is the case, you will need a whole new torque converter, and that will be the reason why the torque convert will not mate-up again...I wish I had a picture of this

Best of luck,

Martin
 

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02 CL55 AMG Clone
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i think when i attached the flywheel to the torque converter, i may have pulled the torque converter off of one of its sets of splines. then continued to tighten the bellhousing until it came together (very tough to pull together, heard two clanking/clunk noises, but could have come from somewhere else)

my question is, did i damage the tranny spline by forcing the torque converter onto it? or would i have damaged the torque converter itself? visually i see no problems with the splines on the tranny and also no defects on the recieving end in the torque converter but noticed some small metal shards on the tranny splines after pulling it apart again :(

edit: mated the tranny and engine again and they came together effortlessly. no struggle or clank noise like the first time

hope it's just the torque converter
 
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