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Also this thread has gone long enough that I forgot...does the key turn at all? Dash light up or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The key does not turn and when inserted NONE of the dash lights come on until I turn the head lights on manually
also the "take key" message is not appearing any longer when I insert the key
 

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The current EPC says that both the 210 and 208 CLK EIS part numbers should work for your vehicle. I do have a virgin EIS on hand, but it would need adapted to your DAS3 key tracks if you were to install it, which it doesn't sound like you have all the hardware needed to do so. The ESL only stores the hash of the key information and not the actual data needed to satisfy the EIS. Depending if the EIS can be communicated with on the bench via IR or via desoldering the IC, you may need to take the vehicle to someone that can do this kind of stuff like myself or other people knowledgeable on this topic. As the poster said previously, the EIS on an older 208 or 210 can be one of the more difficult ones to work with. The dealer could obviously adapt an EIS to your car and use the workshop key, but I am unsure what kind of cost you would be looking at.

The EIS, ESL, and ECU for the Diesel Engine all have to approve a "Start Enable" command. If one device is inoperable, the vehicle will not start, or if one has corrupt key data, it will pass a "Start Enable:NO" command and it will not start. If you have a need for the EIS, you can ping me and we could work something out. I just had it laying around and saw your post - I had not previously intended on selling it, but never thought about it.


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Discussion Starter #45
Greetings, thanks for reaching out in response and your insight. Deplore had mentioned that the 208 and 210 were compatible and I have a lot of 208 series part numbers in this car built January 1, 1998. I located a bundle lock set consisting of key fob, ignition module, door, trunk and glove box locks from a 98 E300 built 29 days after mine in the same Sindelfingen DE plant,
so I am set on hardware, with exception of the ESL.
Have a great weekend Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #46
mrboca,

Morning
I never verified ..." Is there an ignition switch and the steering lock fuse that powers the steering lock ?"
I trust I didn't miss a basic ....
Thanks
 

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There is no fuse for the EIS power. It gets it from a power strip (X4), through the fuse panel at the driver's side.

The ESL gets its power from the EIS via fuse 9 in the driver side fuse panel.

So if you have voltage on both sides of fuse 9 with key inserted, it is deemed that both EIS and the ESL has power (provided that the ESL wiring and connector for power is intact).

Have you received the gizmo ?

Have you tested with it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I never verified power on both sides of fuse 9; I should have already did this
Yes, I received the gizmo the red light comes on and then goes off fairly quickly .... if you can provide your thoughts on result much appreciated (Vendor listing very vague) I removed the EIS and ESL yesterday. If the ESL was locked (not sure) I was able to remove the bolt and push the pin out no issues in doing so.

Question:

Can I replaced my ECU and EIS key fob with matching components from another 98 210.025 E300TD built 29 days after my vehicle same plant in Sindelfingen DE without marrying them back up with HHTWIN DAS ?

The ESL part number 208-462-04-30 is identical to my existing

and or

Do I need to Virginize the donor ECU and instal the EIS, ESL and ECU back to the car?
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I have the following replacement items all from the one donor car listed below
The donor vehicles VIN's last eight (8) is WDBJF25HXXA829416 - build date January 30,1998 Sindelfingen DE plant

EIS 210-545-00-08
ECU A-024-545-11-32
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The ESL - part number showed on EPC was A 208 462 04 30 - Identical to my existing ESL
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
My original part numbers are as follows:

My VIN's last eight (8) is WDBJF25FXWA611103 - build date January 1, 1998 Sindelfingen DE plant

ECU A-025-545-55-32
EIS 210-545-03-08
ESL 208-462-04-30
++++++++++++++++

** I did communicate with Deplore @ programming / virginizing; however he has me a bit confused **

Thanks again for your time
 

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Regarding the gizmo:

1) if you insert the key with gizmo around it, and if the LED on the gizmo lights up, even briefly, it means that the EIS has power and responds to key insertion.
2) If you have a working key, and a working EIS, the light will stay lit for a long while till a timeout occurs. It will stay lit even if you turn the key to position 2, and it will go off after the car starts.
3) If the light is lit very briefly, and goes off and stays off, it means the EIS did not like the authorization code, and rejected the key.
4)If the light is lit for a short while and turns off and then turns on again for a short while, this means that the EIS has asked for but not received the authorization code. This means that the key is bad (this one, I seem to remember what happens, you can confirm that by inserting a screwdriver tip to push the activation switch instead of the key, to simulate a bad key).
5) If you have a bad ESL (which does not respond). I am not sure if the gizmo stays lit up, or goes off. I never tested that.

Regarding the replacement set:

If ESL+EIS+ECU+key from a working donor car (authorization + crank + start), there is no reason why it should not work in your car when ALL replaced. I do not think you need to do anything, just plug and play.

When bench testing the ESL+EIS+key, make sure that the ESL is also powered up, and connected to the EIS, else the key will not turn. You need to use the ESL that comes with the set, not your original (or use an ESL emulator).
 

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Discussion Starter #50
"You need to use the ESL that comes with the set, not your original (or use an ESL emulator)"
+++
The ESL was not part of the package, only item I did not acquire
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My original ESL part number 208-462-04-30 is the same part number as the donor, so this will not work?
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So only reprogramming the ESL or using a ESL emulator
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Thanks
 

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The part number is for hardware. It is the programming that makes it work. The ESL can be virginized, and it will work with your EIS after being virginized (for so many lock / unlock and drive cycles). I remember a thread that someone ordered an ESL from the dealer. He installed it and after a while it stopped locking / unlocking. So he had to tow it to the dealer to get the transport protection released. The easy way of course is to use the emulator. There are ways to keep the virginized ESL working forever, but this is for the wizards.

Hope you have two keys with the new kit. dealers will not help you if the car's VIN does not match the EIS/ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Understood and this is what Deplore was saying ... I wish I had two key fobs with new kit (was gift from German contacts @ Manheim PA auction house) ...
only one key ... back to where we started .. I know
=
I ll have to network find a mobile euro locksmith to see if I can get an additional key programed
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Wow ok I did not have any of the wiring labeled for this port or I don't even recall remove anything from this area of the connector
gotta check that out
Thanks Mrboca
 
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