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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings,

Issues with the ignition degraded last night ... very high failure rate of key ignition working at this time, I.e. turning releasing the key from ignition and turn over starting the engine

I have fault EZS - Electronic ignition switch ELCODE - f - 2105450308 quick report and was unable to connect via HHTWin to clear or examine further; at this time, error; com port assigned and EIS switches passive does not react to diagnosis requests in this status could not back out or cancel HHTWin and reattempt successfully after numerous attempts

Does anyone have the hardware and software requirements etc to clone an existing Electronic Ignition Switch?

Or hardware kit to rebuild resolder repair the original ?

I want to buy a unit and clear it and clone it myself or to repair my existing unit

ideally to control costs $ USD
 

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You really need to determine the code from the EIS, or try to read the ECU live data. "f" means a stored code. In many cases, you get it when when the EIS detects over-voltage or under-voltage conditions.

Also describe the problem a bit more detailed. step by step, starting from the key insertion, and what is displayed on the dash in position 0, 1, 2.

In the live data you need to look at circuit or terminal 50 status when the key is turned to crank the engine. It should be active.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
understood working to access now ...
will explain further in detail use this daylight real quick
will advise much thanks
 

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Can't you read the IFI (diesel engine computer) live data ? The EIS has to send circuit 50 signal to IFI for the engine to crank. I seem to remember you had a problem reading the EIS in the past postings. Maybe there is a problem with the 38 connector pin / wire for the EIS access.

To answer your question on EIS cloning, you need specialized equipment to virginize ( clear code) the replacement EIS (if used one), then equipment to read the code and program the replacement EIS. It requires special skills and equipment. You will not be able to do it with the SDS that cannot even access the EIS. If you are sure that the EIS is the problem, Deplore should be able to do the transfer for you if you send him the key, old EIS and a replacement at a price.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I replied to you to say I could not access via HHTWIN errors

I am .5 mile from my house Shell Station Ignition locked not interfacing with key fob
All my windows down with the vehicle locked in gear pain in the ass to tow and everything

I guess I didn’t get to this task job on time
 

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Probably you have a key problem. What sort of key do you have ? the one with the panic button at the back of the key ( (generation 1) ?
 

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You may have a problem with the coil inside the key fob at the tip where the lens is . The coil wire or printed circuit track gets broken and this causes the key not to unlock the steering and turn.
 

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if you have another key or emergency key you can try those. Else you need to check the coil wiring and onnection to the PCB. You need to remove the battery tray and then the PCB (white retainer thingy with a spring needs to be removed to remove the PCB).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the response will investigate the key fob connection to PCB ...
had to drag E300 10 feet in gear will be lucky if I didn't damage tranny thanks again
Cheers
 

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210 EIS is very difficult to clone, if not downright impossible.

Currently going through this with a customer EIS, anytime you try to read the MCU on the EIS, it dies instantly. No longer readable. I've bricked 4 210/208 EIS this past week and the customer is hounding me every day about the bleeding car.

Best bet is to get an EIS with a key combo, then virginize the ESL and the ECU and then remarry.

....or get a new EIS.

If the problem indeed is with the EIS. Check with another key first.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Deplore & MrBoca

I don't have an extra key .. with the No key status here ..... If I acquire an EIS with a key combo

Q: Can you virginize the ESL and ECU and then remarry? Whats your fee ?

I am not sure if I can repair the existing key fob ? Mrboca suggested that "You may have a problem with the coil inside the key fob at the tip where the lens is. The coil wire or printed circuit track gets broken and this causes the key not to unlock the steering and turn".
 

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Have a look at the following thread, especially post #8.
https://www.benzworld.org/threads/key-fob-diagnosis-and-repair.2979305/

I always recommend the following or equivalent (red/ black versions)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUGOCOM-Auto-Lock-Inspection-Loop-Easy-Checker-EZS-Immobiliser-System-Tester/283505737341?hash=item4202423e7d:g:BKYAAOSwbzpc9hTJ

This is a sale from the USA (faster shipping) you can get one much cheaper from China. This is just for reference.

You can test if the EIS is putting the power on the energizer coil, and if it does, it will show if the key is bad, or the EIS is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
mrboca,

Visual inspection of board no noted solder breaks
Checked all buttons none stuck.

1) I have 7.4 ohms @ the tip of coil @ two posts
2) I have 7.4 ohms @ both sides white cylinder posts at tracks
3) Question: Can you clarify multimeter number three (3) check below
+++

Question: Can you clarify multimeter number three (3) check below

Because if I follow the white cylinder tracks one goes to the 10V black capacitor and one goes to the Motorola chip.

The four tracks center coming out of the white barrel has one outer to plated hole and
other outer to Motorola chip

* Photo attached for reference

+++

If you are good with a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the coil

1) at the tip of the coil where the coil wire ends are soldered to the the two posts. Just measure the resistance. It should be less than 100 ohms. If not you have a break in the coil wire typically at where it is soldered to the posts.

2) The next point to measure is at both sides of the white cylinder where the posts are soldered to the tracks. These points are the weak points that have cracks that you may not see easily. You should receive 100 ohms or less.

3) Follow the tracks from both sides. One goes to a plated through hole and the other goes somewhere under the 68 microfarad 10V black capacitor. Once you determine where they terminate, you can take a measurement there too.

Your key is a generation 1 key. The video shown is for a gen 2 key.

In my case, one of the soldering strips of the white cylinder at the tip was cracked. I soldered it and it was good after that. Also the one of the posts at the tip of the coil (next to the IR receiver / sender LEDs) had intermittent connection. I ended up removing the coil wire, and wind it back on the spool, and solder the ends on the posts. It works with no problem.
 

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Check resistance across the black capacitor. One side of the coil should be connected to ground (I guess - battery trace at the back and the other to the capacitor. There is a capacitor in parallel to the coil, and I suspect it is the black rectangular one. So you should read low resistance across it too. The 4 traces from the middle of the coil are for the infra-red transmitter and receiver, and not part of this test. To test the IR sender, you need a smartphone camera pointed to the tip of the key fob (with batteries installed) and press any key. You should see a light flicker that the camera can see but the eye cannot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Understood working the remainder
key fob checks ASAP. I ordered EZS immobilizer eBay when you sent msg
earlier from US but West Coast

I am perfect example unintelligence associated with having only one ancient dinosaur key on hand
 

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Well, maybe not unintelligent -- just uninformed. Now that you know what to look for and know what's up with it, you can take action to prevent future issues.

MrBoca, I took this picture of the key generations, maybe you can save it and use it as reference for future key identifications. If you need pics of the PCB, let me know and I'll disassemble these too. Also if you want resistance measurement of any point of any key, let me know too. I have a whole drawer full of those keys.

Yes I can virginize the ESL and ECU, and since you have SDS with httwin, you can simply do the initial start to finish the DAS and remarry to start the car. PM me to get a ballpark of what to expect.

Incidentally, if you want to order a replacement EIS with a key, try to get a EIS with either gen 1 or gen 3 key.... a locksmith (or me, I suppose) can open the key to read the Motorola or the NEC chip to get the key password to generate more keys. Gen 2 is not currently doable, it does not give the key password when the NEC chip is desoldered. Another oddity.


EDIT: Badkissian, please don't tell me that the picture you posted in #17 is of your actual key..... what are these long scratches on the right side of the pcb?!?! I hope they haven't cut the wire traces on the PCB to the gold contact patch....
 

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