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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
Just bought a 2012 R350 bluetec, and I'm looking for a complete delete.
I did some googling and the only option I find is JR tuning.

Any one done this ? Recommendations ?

Thank you
 

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I did it in my 2008 R320 CDI. I used JR tuning (based in canada) but I bought my tune from US dealer. JR tuning helped though in answering my questions. I've driven mine for more than 30K miles, no problems. You'll gain at least 2-3 mpgs easily. Plus more power.
There are no bolt on's available when I did mine. You'll make your vehicle more reliable as you're getting rid of possible problems from EGR and DPF (that prompted me to do it when mine failed and stayed on limp mode). Their tune covers the swirl motor problems too. Although I've already done a resistor bypass on mine when it failed.
But doing the tune, you only need to get rid of the DPF can and replace with straight pipe. The swirl motor can stay, the EGR can be left too. But all three are deactivated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did it in my 2008 R320 CDI. I used JR tuning (based in canada) but I bought my tune from US dealer. JR tuning helped though in answering my questions. I've driven mine for more than 30K miles, no problems. You'll gain at least 2-3 mpgs easily. Plus more power.
There are no bolt on's available when I did mine. You'll make your vehicle more reliable as you're getting rid of possible problems from EGR and DPF (that prompted me to do it when mine failed and stayed on limp mode). Their tune covers the swirl motor problems too. Although I've already done a resistor bypass on mine when it failed.
But doing the tune, you only need to get rid of the DPF can and replace with straight pipe. The swirl motor can stay, the EGR can be left too. But all three are deactivated.

I found a local shop who can do it and he's asking 3K.
The JR tune option with the bolt on pipes will set me $1600, but I have to do the work myself (and I am not mechanically inclined beyond regular maintenance of oil and filter changes).
I'm going to use this vehicle with uber, reliability and fuel savings is my goal... (about 30K miles/year and the car has 100K miles on it already. but it was serviced at the dealership on time since day 0)

I called a US, JR distributor and he also requested I send in my cluster along with the ECU?
How hard is to do the work myself ?
thanks
 

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Hi,

I haven't log in for a long time, sorry about that. If you haven't done it yet, I'd still recommend it. I don't know about 2012's. There was no need for me to send in the cluster, it was just a flash. I bought the tune with a flash loader, that's the only way to do it. Then the only thing mechanical you need to do it is to get the dpf off and zip ties the left over connections. You'll need somebody to well you a missing exhaust pipe then. I've heard other people do it themselves buy gutting the inside of the dpf, but best to the section cutoff and new piece welded in. Other than that, there's nothing else to be done. The tune will take care of the EGR, the swirl motor, and the DPF, and the SCR.

Last year, I addressed the leaking oil in the back (oil cooler seal) it was a big job, so I had a mechanic do it. At same time, I capped off the EGR and and removed the swirl motor. No difference, since the tune already took care of that, but just cleaned out the engine bay.

Yes, with those addressed, the engine can be reliable. I've not had a problem since.

I hope this was still able to help you decide.
 

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By the way, tune plus pipes for $1600 is already a good price. It's also easy enough to do, you just need sturdy jack stands to work safely under the car.
 

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Not Good so far

I purchased the pipe and tune for my 2012 ML350 Bluetec from AArodiguez and have not had it work correctly at all. I don't recommend doing this as I had mine done by an Import garage as I cant weld. Everything was done to the instructions and still I'm between limp mode and sometimes my turbo works but then all of the sudden doesn't. My garage reached out to the tuner and rechecked several items, but still doesn't work. I'm in the middle of them pointing fingers at each other with a broke vehicle and no solution. I've taken it to the Dealership for them to scan and that didn't give any answers either. I can only speak to what I'm dealing with. I'm thinking about going back to replacing all of the emissions system and flash back to stock to get my vehicle back.

Good luck
 

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I'm sorry you're not having luck with your project. I did mine myself, except the welding part. I wish your mechanic and the tuner could sort it out. A few things might be mitigating the problem. When I did mine, my EGR was already clogged and going to limp mode, and I got a block off kit from CB Engineering for that; my swirl motor was also bad, and so I took that off and blocked the intake. However, the tune should have taken cared of that. I wish there's some way I could be of help.
 

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I did it in my 2008 R320 CDI. I used JR tuning (based in canada) but I bought my tune from US dealer. JR tuning helped though in answering my questions. I've driven mine for more than 30K miles, no problems. You'll gain at least 2-3 mpgs easily. Plus more power.
There are no bolt on's available when I did mine. You'll make your vehicle more reliable as you're getting rid of possible problems from EGR and DPF (that prompted me to do it when mine failed and stayed on limp mode). Their tune covers the swirl motor problems too. Although I've already done a resistor bypass on mine when it failed.
But doing the tune, you only need to get rid of the DPF can and replace with straight pipe. The swirl motor can stay, the EGR can be left too. But all three are deactivated.
Just wondering if physically removing the DPF gave noticable exhaust noise increase?
 

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Greg,

I know it's been a few months since your post, but I assure you the problem is your tune. The first tuner I found caused more problems, fault codes and intermittent limp home modes than I originally had. Then he tried to convince me it was problems with the car. Two tuners later, a fellow from Germany sent me a tune that was perfect right out of the box, my car is amazing. Good luck.
 

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Yes, the car is a bit throatier. Not that you can notice it while driving, but if you are outside and walking around it you definitely can tell. Also, please keep in mind that you will smell a bit more of diesel vapor then before. It's by no means an obnoxious monster driving down the road rolling coal as you pass people.
 

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Greg,

I know it's been a few months since your post, but I assure you the problem is your tune. The first tuner I found caused more problems, fault codes and intermittent limp home modes than I originally had. Then he tried to convince me it was problems with the car. Two tuners later, a fellow from Germany sent me a tune that was perfect right out of the box, my car is amazing. Good luck.

Well just to give an update, I still don't have it running correctly. The tuner is telling me that I need to have it diagnosed with a STAR tool, but my turbo actuator "could be" bad, and to replace it. But in order to do that, I have to replace the whole turbo assembly. Which means $$$$... And I don't think that the STAR tool can diagnose the actuator anyways.... And not sure if that is just the next damn answer to an unsolved problem or what. So its driven everyday, after awhile I loose the turbo until I stop at an intersection and restart the vehicle... and be on my merry way.
 

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Greg,

I don't believe you are loosing the turbo, it sounds like your car is going into limp home mode, and restarting pops it out. I had the exact same problem with the first tuner I used. And he also tried to convince me that my car was broken. I however have a full Star system and knew that wasn't the case.

There are many so called "tuners" out there that have the ecu reading and writing equipment, but are actually just sending your file off to a tuning service that uses a program called Swiftec to modify your file, or they themselves pay for a Swiftec subscription and use it on your file. There are two problems with this, one is that the Swiftec software is not completely infallible even though it's supposed to work on a multitude of manufacturer and vehicle ecu's, and two, the tuner using it may have no idea what he's doing to your file, he's just trusting the software. When I found a true tuner that manually modified my file the car worked flawlessly right off the bat. He also told me that the Swiftech software does not work properly on all the systems of our late model Bluetec cars which apparently have very tricky ecu's.

Try and get a copy of your original ecu file from the tuner if he didn't give it to you already. Send me a pm and maybe we can sort your car out.
 

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Greg,

I don't believe you are loosing the turbo, it sounds like your car is going into limp home mode, and restarting pops it out. I had the exact same problem with the first tuner I used. And he also tried to convince me that my car was broken. I however have a full Star system and knew that wasn't the case.

There are many so called "tuners" out there that have the ecu reading and writing equipment, but are actually just sending your file off to a tuning service that uses a program called Swiftec to modify your file, or they themselves pay for a Swiftec subscription and use it on your file. There are two problems with this, one is that the Swiftec software is not completely infallible even though it's supposed to work on a multitude of manufacturer and vehicle ecu's, and two, the tuner using it may have no idea what he's doing to your file, he's just trusting the software. When I found a true tuner that manually modified my file the car worked flawlessly right off the bat. He also told me that the Swiftech software does not work properly on all the systems of our late model Bluetec cars which apparently have very tricky ecu's.

Try and get a copy of your original ecu file from the tuner if he didn't give it to you already. Send me a pm and maybe we can sort your car out.
Did this ever get sorted out? I just bought an R350 Bluetec and so far I hate it. This is literally my 10th or something Mercedes I have owned and have never had so many problems! Anyways, want to delete and see if my problems go away. Please help!
 

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It's a good engine. On the om642 Start your bulletproofing small and cheap and work you way up. I'd start with the swirl flap motor delete it's a 5 cent resistor. Super easy and effective. Next get a cheap scanner. The Icarsoft is about 150 bucks and will read a lot of our systems. Watch for speed sensor codes if those ever pop up get that taken care of. Search 722.9 trans speed sensor to get an idea of what that whole deal is. Next get the dpf and egr turned off. Green diesel engenering is very good and easy to install but they are about 700 bucks.
 

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Hi,

I haven't log in for a long time, sorry about that. If you haven't done it yet, I'd still recommend it. I don't know about 2012's. There was no need for me to send in the cluster, it was just a flash. I bought the tune with a flash loader, that's the only way to do it. Then the only thing mechanical you need to do it is to get the dpf off and zip ties the left over connections. You'll need somebody to well you a missing exhaust pipe then. I've heard other people do it themselves buy gutting the inside of the dpf, but best to the section cutoff and new piece welded in. Other than that, there's nothing else to be done. The tune will take care of the EGR, the swirl motor, and the DPF, and the SCR.

Last year, I addressed the leaking oil in the back (oil cooler seal) it was a big job, so I had a mechanic do it. At same time, I capped off the EGR and and removed the swirl motor. No difference, since the tune already took care of that, but just cleaned out the engine bay.

Yes, with those addressed, the engine can be reliable. I've not had a problem since.

I hope this was still able to help you decide.
 

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So I just bought a 2012 bluetec about 3 months ago and now I’m getting dpf codes and it goes in and out of limp. Got a diagnosis at the dealer for 5000 to replace the dpf. So now I’m looking to delete because it’s cheaper and better for the engine anyway. So that I’m reading correctly, if I get the ecu tuned, and then replace the pipe to get rid of the dpf and adblue systems, all is well? Do something with the sensors that would be hanging, but wouldn’t have to mess with the swirl flaps or egr or anything? They will be shut off in the tune and I can just leave them on and alone and won’t have any issues?
 

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So I just bought a 2012 bluetec about 3 months ago and now I’m getting dpf codes and it goes in and out of limp. Got a diagnosis at the dealer for 5000 to replace the dpf. So now I’m looking to delete because it’s cheaper and better for the engine anyway. So that I’m reading correctly, if I get the ecu tuned, and then replace the pipe to get rid of the dpf and adblue systems, all is well? Do something with the sensors that would be hanging, but wouldn’t have to mess with the swirl flaps or egr or anything? They will be shut off in the tune and I can just leave them on and alone and won’t have any issues?
You bought a 2012 bluetec, but what is the model and engine?

If you do a complete delete of DEF/DPF/EGR/Lambda/EKAS/TPS, the only 2 things that you will completely disconnect take off the vehicle are the DPF with its pressure difference sensor and the DEF will have to be disconnected. All the rest will stay connected.
 

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You bought a 2012 bluetec, but what is the model and engine?

If you do a complete delete of DEF/DPF/EGR/Lambda/EKAS/TPS, the only 2 things that you will completely disconnect take off the vehicle are the DPF with its pressure difference sensor and the DEF will have to be disconnected. All the rest will stay connected.
So I just bought a 2012 bluetec about 3 months ago and now I’m getting dpf codes and it goes in and out of limp. Got a diagnosis at the dealer for 5000 to replace the dpf. So now I’m looking to delete because it’s cheaper and better for the engine anyway. So that I’m reading correctly, if I get the ecu tuned, and then replace the pipe to get rid of the dpf and adblue systems, all is well? Do something with the sensors that would be hanging, but wouldn’t have to mess with the swirl flaps or egr or anything? They will be shut off in the tune and I can just leave them on and alone and won’t have any issues?
 

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Mine is a 2007 ml320 cdo so I only had the egr dpf swirl functions to delete. I did the remap with green diesel engineering and the only hardware I had to worry about was the dpf. So I took it off, hollowed it out with a stick and a hammer and reinstalled it so the whole system still looks oem. Has Passed utah emissions in Utah 4 years now. All good
 

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You bought a 2012 bluetec, but what is the model and engine?

If you do a complete delete of DEF/DPF/EGR/Lambda/EKAS/TPS, the only 2 things that you will completely disconnect take off the vehicle are the DPF with its pressure difference sensor and the DEF will have to be disconnected. All the rest will stay connected.
Mine is a 2012 GL350 and I currently have the ecu in Canada with Malone tuning. They are doing a complete emissions delete. So all the metal lines going to the dpf, do they need capped off or can they just be left alone? I have the dpf off now but my plan is to clean the filter out of the pipe and put it back on so if I got pulled over and they checked I could say it is still on there. My state don’t inspect, but I drive in states that do. So a just in case.
 
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