[Mike34]

2014 E350 4MATIC gas.
Last weekend I replaced all 6 ICs, plugs, 4 each camshaft solenoids & position sensors, and the oil separator crankcase ventilation valve. Prior to doing this work, the ECO S/S light on the multi-function display would be yellow the majority of the time while driving and only occasionally turn green. However, since doing the above work, the ECO S/S is green the majority of the time. I’m driving the same route to and from work this week and outside temperatures have been roughly the same.
I’m struggling to understand how replacing the the above would have an effect on when the ECO S/S light decides to goes green and thus shut off the engine when the car stops. My thought is that with the new oil separator crankcase vent valve there is significantly less oil vapor injected into the intake. Perhaps the ECO function thinks that the engine is under less of a load and therefore, the reason that the ECO S/S function kicks in more frequently? Overall, it now functions the way it did when the car was new. Thoughts?

 

[konigstiger]

See attachment.

 

[Mike34]

OK. I read through the attachment. The primary focus was on ”load-intensive consumers“ that have a draw on the electrical system calling out air conditioning, cruise control, brake assist, blower, etc. The pages lacked any mention of how the ignition system influences enabling a “green” ECO light. It’s true that if there is a ”large” electrical draw at the time when the car stops, and a green ECO turns the engine off, the engine will be restarted “sooner” if too much battery drain is detected. Yup, this definitely happens: sometimes the engine remains off for an entire red light cycle and sometimes not, depending on temperature, what’s on in the car, etc., That’s my biggest take away from the attachment.

When the ECO is yellow when the car stops, the engine doesn’t turn off, you can take your foot off the brake allowing the car to creep forward a couple of feet, step back on the brake, and the ECO will go green and the engine turns off. But sometimes, I have to do this twice (brake on, brake off). And again, the duration that the engine remains off, for an entire red light cycle or not, depends on the draw on the battery from accessories. (PS: I replaced batteries last summer.)

Thanks for the attachment. I’m seeking the inputs that influence the system‘s decision to go green when the vehicle is moving. I didn’t change my driving habits over the last week yet the ECO is green almost all of the time now. And I’m OK with that.

 

[Rickman30]

Mine too, changed aux batt, tested weak, no change, main batt test ok, but CCA is @ 58% despite being 2 years old. Replaced Voltage Regulator as output of Alternator was 15.1, brushes had 1/3 left and uneven wear. (one longer than the other). Did seem to notice of issue after finding oil in camshaft connectors, looks as if had just reached PCM, but was not noticeable, not pooled there as it was in the sensors.