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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Benzworld,
I am hoping to get some help and resolve this problem. My 2001 E430 4Matic 98400 miles was operating fine until suddenly at 45mph my ESP ABS BAS came on flashing along with Visit Workshop. I kept driving for about a mile and pull into a prkg. lot, as I did so, the engine died. I put the shifter on park and try to restart the car, power to all the lights on the cluster came on but the engine did not budge.

I towed the car home and started researching related issues. Insofar, I replaced Brake Lights Switch, complete transmission tuneup, Oil, filter, conductor plate, Harness plug, removed TCM and cleaned it out, little bit of tranny fluid had migrated into the box, not a lot, still no luck, I replaced Crank Shaft Position Sensor, still mute.
Checked fuses. Surprisingly in the same compartment where the TCM, ECM is located, there is a row of 6 fuses different amperages. The fourth fuse from left (10 Amp) is burnt. I replaced it, soon I turned on the ignition it burns again. I burnt 6 retrial fuses then I discovered on my last attempt, after I placed a new 10 A fuse in then sitting behind the wheel looking at the cluster, turned on the ignition, noticed the gear position displayed (P) for park for about 1 1/2 second and disappeared. I checked the fuse, it is blown. I concluded the continuity to the shifter position is from that fuse but what other source could cause it to blow? I even went on to disconnect the shifter and performed the same test, got the same result.

I might add, I bought a Autel Maxidiag Elite Scanner and scanned the car. It came up with 2 Faults:
1 - C1140 N49 (steering angle sensor) stored
and current
2 - C1024 Fault In CAN communication with control unit N1 5/3 ( ETC [EGS] control unit)

Subsequently, I replaced the the Steering Angle Sensor with a used one, same part number. From there rescanning the system it shows 1 Fault:
C1140 N49 (Steering Angle Sensor)
Stored & current
The culprit still remained under cover, particularly not allowed to start engine.

I hope my details are comprehensible enough to get some helpful directions.

Thanks
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Hello :)

Locate the 2 pin connector near the starter relay / big orange fuse (in the corner). Check if there is a 2-wire harness plugged - in. If so, remove it, and with the blown fuse replaced, try starting the car.

The black starter relay and the orange 40-amp maxi-fuse are located on the same fuse panel where the blown fuse is. The blown fuse is for the Transmission Controller, and it also powers the module box fan (through the 2-pin connector).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mrboca,
Thank you a bunch for the input. I will look into it tomorrow & see if the luck is on my side. I’ll be updating.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mrboca,
Yes! Yes! Yes! Your advise went straight to cure the problem. I had reached a brick wall from other options before I decided to post for help, and here you came.
Your input is much appreciated, thank you, thank you and thank you!
I have a question though. Do I need to repair or replace anything while those wires are unplugged? Will I be experiencing any malfunction or not?

Once again I thank you!
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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I am glad I was able to help you. The module fan unit sometimes gets seized and drives more current than it should, and blows the fuse. I would recommend that you replace the module fan, as it may cause module electronics overheating, and the car may have strange problems which would be difficult to diagnose.

There is a DIY in the other forum to replace, and also a post from @MBGraham with an alternative solution.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w210/707261-diy-w210-computer-box-cooling-blower-motor-replace.html

https://www.benzworld.org/threads/apparatus-or-module-case-cooling-fan-blower.1643982/
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mrboca,
It is obvious, the car did start and the engine ran a little sluggish. The Autel Maxidiag Scanner showed about 10 faults have surged in the system.
-6 in the TCM
-2 in the ESP
-3 in the ME
Not out of the woods as of yet, I will try to follow up with with subsequent steps and links about the module fan.
I promise to update.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Record all the codes and post them here (stored and current). Then clear them at the module level (TCM, ESP, ME).

The steering angle sensor needs reset by following the lock- to- lock movement of the steering wheel several times. You can find the procedure (with ignition on) in the stickies or online. The other ESP fault will clear with the TCM now powered up.

After clearing the faults, start the engine and drive few driving cycles, and check for faults to see which ones come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
mrboca,
  • Thanks for your consistency and patience. Here are the current faults after finally starting the engine:
C1140 (Steering Angle Sensor) stored &
current
C1504 System is switched off, Steering
Angle Sensor not initialized

116 Stored
Component Y3/6b1 (transmission oil
temp sensor) or component Y3/6s1
(Starter Lockout Contact) is
sporadically faulty or both

130. Stored
CAN communication with control
unit N1 5/5 (Electronic Selector
Level Module control unit) is
sporadically disturbed

132. Stored
CAN communication with engine
System is sporadically disturbed
or engine temperature is
Sporadically implausible

134. Stored
CAN communication with traction
System is sporadically disturbed

135 Stored
CAN communication with engine system
Is sporadically disturbed

136. Stored
Occasional interference to CAN communication with control module A1
(Instrument Cluster) or N73 (EIS [EZS] control unit)

P0204A MIL On & Stored
Misfiring of cylinder 7 (P0307)

P2043. MIL On & Stored
Misfiring P0300

oof!
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Please clear them, and drive several drive cycles at varying speeds making sure the transmission and the engine reaches full operating temperature. Check faults to see if any comes back as current (or new ones).

It appears that the misfire 07 is current. If it comes back, then we look at it as an engine issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks! I will cycle drive it as you suggest. There is no light warning on the cluster, none. I did the lock to lock steering, the ABS, ESP, BAS are no longer in display. I will be looking into the Apparatus Case Blower issue so that I can reconnect the disconnected wire.
Thank you again for now!
 

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mrboca does it again! Two years ago, my apparatus case fan seized with your same symptoms, leaving me stranded. mrboca diagnosed the problem and got me back on the road.

Some tips about the job:
I was able to drive with the fan disconnected for a few weeks (in cold Nov/Dec) with no problem.

My 2002 E320 4Matic wagon required the Papst fan, part 210 545 05 95. It was $190 locally or $180 online, so I simply bought it locally. I researched the option to open the fan housing and replace only the fan ($60) but I could not find an exact fit. There were many specifications which had to match, such as performance and moisture resistance. Ultimately, it was easier to just buy the (overpriced) Benz fan.

When you remove the computers in the case, the transmission control module (TCM) may leak transmission fluid everywhere! Have a bucket ready to put it in. The wire bundle which connects the TCM to the transmission has a well known problem. The end which connects to the transmission can leak slightly, allowing fluid to creep along the wires all the way into the engine bay, into the TCM. It requires part 203 540 00 53 for $15 to repair. The TCM would benefit from a thorough draining and cleaning with proper electrical cleaners as well.

You will have a hard time removing one of the bolts way at the bottom of the case connecting to the firewall. It requires a universal joint adapter for your socket wrench. Even with that, it's difficult. But it can be done.

I've attached the only picture I took during the job. It's the base of the apparatus case, where it connects to the firewall (with those hard to reach bolts). The fan is mounted on the left side.

Good luck!

IMG_5656.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #13
FireFox31, I appreciate your inputs and advises. Yes my hats off to mrboca, he had nailed the culprit right on the head and got my engine to fire up, also he followed up with me to this point as I think I am going to be ok with that issue, my fingers crossed.

it is ironic that you said you drove Your car for couple months in the winter before replacing the apparatus blower. Needless to to say, it is mandatory that it is present and working during the hot summer months. This nightmare happens to me on hot day in September, it was 94 degrees. Obviously the cooling devise to the computer box could no longer take the heat and burnt. I had no clue until I posted the symptoms and mrboca came to my rescue.

I have investigated the approach of replacing the part (DIY), it’s a little intimidating due to all the modules that have come out and shuffling the harnesses, however I will at some point tackle it. I want to give it a couple of months as it is cold now, on a warmer day and with a cool head have at it. Wish me luck!

Oh by the way, I am dealing with another mystery that just rises up this evening:
The key the car won’t turn the ignition on. I drove the car for 55 miles, 48hrs ago and park it in the garage, in addition I scanned to with my Autel Maxidiag Elite for any malfunction. Everything pass, pass, pass.
Tonight I went start the car, the would not move, I shake the steering wheel, giggle the key, remove it in and out and back in, not a thing. I only have one key unfortunately can’t try another. I might have to go to the “dollers” on Friday and get hit for a new key.

I am open for any suggestions on the latest.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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If the key does not turn at all, and the steering wheel is locked, it is likely that the key is bad. I assume you have the generation 2 key fob (the one with the red panic button near the tip like the one second from the left in the first picture) ?
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/key-battery-change/

If this is the case, typically, the induction pick up coil inside got broken, and it can be replaced, or the chip inside can be transferred to to a new key fob.

Make sure the car battery is not flat.

I think you should be able to access the EIS (the ignition switch) with your Autel even with the ignition off, as it is powered. If you look at the authorization status in the live data for the key, it should tell you if the key inserted is recognized and valid.


If the key turns but no crank and start, that is a different issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just to update on my recent issues, I had to bring in a locksmith whom scanned the car and concluded that I had two simultaneous problems: the key to the car was bad and the ESL, Steering lock was also bad.

Since he had reproduced a new key that started the car and finding out the steering wheel is locked and he is able to fix both issues, I decided to let him handle everything. I lack the necessary knowledge to tackle this one, I must admit.

well the repair was done and I am driving the car around, There is no malfunction or current codes.

A special thanks to mrboca who contributed is expertise helping me resolved these issues.

Gratefully!
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Glad that it was the key and not the ignition switch. I would try to get the existing key repaired, if you still have only one key. There is a gentleman who had contributed in the forums and who could transfer the chip in the old key to a shiny new one, for a very reasonable cost. You should always have two keys which may help diagnose further problems in these areas. Maybe you could send him a message to find out if he still offers his services. His id is @93SoCal400E.
 
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