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Discussion Starter #1
The other day I was driving my car and once I turn out of my neighborhood I felt my steering get hard and my car die. While it was dying the ASR light came on along with the traction warning. After I pulled the car over I tried starting it and it would crank longer than usual, start, then immediately die. People were telling me that it could be the CPS so I pushed my car back home and let it sit for a day and tried to start it when it cooled down and same thing happened, cranks long, started and died. My guess is something to do with MAF or throttle body considering the ASR light came on. Any input on what I should troubleshoot before replacing any of those crazy expensive parts would be great.
 

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The other day I was driving my car and once I turn out of my neighborhood I felt my steering get hard and my car die. While it was dying the ASR light came on along with the traction warning. After I pulled the car over I tried starting it and it would crank longer than usual, start, then immediately die. People were telling me that it could be the CPS so I pushed my car back home and let it sit for a day and tried to start it when it cooled down and same thing happened, cranks long, started and died. My guess is something to do with MAF or throttle body considering the ASR light came on. Any input on what I should troubleshoot before replacing any of those crazy expensive parts would be great.
If the Crank Shaft sensor has totally failed, it will not start period. It'll just crank and crank. 2 things to do first; If it's pre 1996 the codes use the OPD1 flashing LED technique. Even if there's no Check Engine light, there could still be error codes thrown in the system. A bad MAF sensor will result in nothing more than really rough idle and the car will be undriveable. I did a fuel pressure test on startup and it turned out be a bad fuel pump(you need 50psi). Mine has 2 pumps in tandum and one was squeeling so I replaced both pumps.
 

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Assuming eco junk wiring has been addressed, it sounds like a worn out voltage regulator to me.

Check the static battery voltage before cranking, you should see around 12.6 Volt. Then turn on the car along with ALL electrical consumers, high beams, fogs, max A/C, defroster, etc. Measure again. You should see at least around 13.5Volt

Turn off the electrical consumers, but leave the engine running. Measure again, and you should see around 14.0-14.5 Volt.

You can test the CPS very easily by measuring the resistance on the connector at the EZL. It must be in the spec range, depending on ambient temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The alternator was replaced a few months ago with a brand new one. And the car dies immediately so there's no way for me to check voltage with the engine running.
 

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You can still test the CPS without the engine running.

What type of alternator did you put in it? The factory alternator is very durable, and many times the alternator gets misdiagnosed when all that is needed is a new voltage regulator.
 

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To rule out the regulator in this current condition, fully charge the battery using a battery charger. If the VR was suspect and not charging properly, the motor should run more than a few seconds.
 
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