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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I just inherited a 1995 e420 (now my second) from my father who did not take care of this car. However, it is another special edition model, and I decided to fix it up and keep it. I've done everything myself such as the struts, starter, wire harness, etc. However, there is this annoying squealing sound from the drivers side of the car. My inspection says that both of the front ball joints are bad. He disagreed and tthought is was just the control arm bushings.

Last week, I took it to three different European model shops. Two agreed with me while one agreed with my dad. The third shop changed their mind when my dad said he had been driving with the squealing sound for the last 3 years. (In these last three years, he has taken the car from 150k to 370k miles.) Thus in theory, the ball joints should have broken by now.

So here comes my two questions:

1. Should I go ahead and just replace the ball joints with this much controversy.

2. The reason I ask is because all three people said that the ball joint had to be welded on to the control arm, something that could only be gotten for the MB dealer who is charging $510 an arm. Is it true that the ball joint for the special edition e420s had to be welded on or can I just buy the standard arm off peachparts and then give it to one of them to install

I am actually not going to install this part myself based on how dangerous it can be to install it wrong.

Thanks for the help.
 

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1993 400E
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7,361 Posts
The lower ball joints are only availible with the
lower control arm assembly.

So you get new bushings as well as the ball joints.

Part# 124-330-3407 for left
124-330-3507 for right

 

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1990 Mercedes Benz 300E
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1,336 Posts
I'm not sure about the latter m119 engined cars but sometime after 92 the m104s all had ball-joints that were welded on the control arms necessitating the replacement of the entire control arm if the ball joint went bad. I've already gone through 2 sets of ball joints on my 90 and those could be replaced individually (either using a torch and peen hammer or the proper press).
 

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2008 E350 4M, 2016 Audi Allroad, 2019 Audi Q5
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5,447 Posts
Most of the W124's with 4 piston front calipers seem to have them.
All of them do. You can't fit a dust shield without the different LCAs.
 

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1993 400E
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7,361 Posts
All of them do. You can't fit a dust shield without the different LCAs.
Your talking about early cars with updated brakes.

I was talking about cars originally equiped with 4 piston calipers.
As such they would already have the correct dust shields.

I remember when the cars started to appear with 4 piston calipers
and as I said they usually had the welded ball joints. The 2 seem to go hand in hand.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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17,375 Posts
Avoid Beck&Arnley. Their parts are substandard on the same level as URO parts.

Get genuine MB arms or Lemforder (a OEM supplier to MB)

Suggest you check sites such as autohausaz.com, germanstar.net, Rusty (do a search) among others to get the best possible price.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wow, thanks for your quick answer guys. Here is my last question. You said no Beck&Arney, however, does that also include a febi controal arm. (First one I saw on auto, and the cheapest one.) If not, I'll get the one off germanstar.

Once again, thanks for all the help.
 

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1990 Mercedes Benz 300E
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1,336 Posts
Febi is touch and go... and the only control arms I see available online for that configuration... you can still get Lemfoerder control arms of the earlier type with the single piston calipers... the only exception being parts.com where they are listed as OEM selling for $364.80/ side.

That's prolly your best bet!
 

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1995 e320 wagon
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165 Posts
RockAuto has Moog arms for 128 shipping from the EU, which in my experience costs about $30. Never used moogsb on a Benz, but have always had good experiences on American and Japanese cars.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Cruise Control
'87 300TD/'90 300D/'94 Quattro/'89 Vanagon TDI/'01 EV Weekender VR6
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52,233 Posts
For that price, I can almost guarantee that they're cheap Asian knock-offs. Trust me on this, it's not worth the hassle and potential safety risks. The rubber doesn't hold up, so the BJs wear prematurely...and there's a good chance the swaybar studs will snap in half when you attempt to cinch them down to proper torque.

Here's a BJ bellows from a cheap knock-off after sitting unused on a shelf behind my shop for three years.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
That is actually how my current ball joint looks.

Ok, I've decided to go with the original MB ball joint/control arm. My theology is that this one has lasted 17 years and 350k miles. Minus well get another one to do the same thing. I am going to get it replaced next friday.
 

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1993 400E
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That is actually how my current ball joint looks.

Ok, I've decided to go with the original MB ball joint/control arm. My theology is that this one has lasted 17 years and 350k miles. Minus well get another one to do the same thing. I am going to get it replaced next friday.
You should really do both sides with that amount of miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, I am. Its going to be about $1400. (I know so steep.) However, it is going to have a lifetime warranty. Since I am never going to sell the car, that means when I have to replace again in seventeen years, it will be free. :)
 

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1984, 201.122, OM601.921, G717.410
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504 Posts
It is also possible to purchase just the boot and retainer springs.

I am still waiting for somebody to adapt the teflon coated ball joints from a Mustang.
 

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Has anyone used the early serviceable LCA (124 330 3007/3107) in place of the later ones (124 330 3407/3507). I have a 1995 124.032 with 48K on the clock.

I'd rather put in the Lemforder serviceable control arms than the new style mechanics friends with welded ball-joints.

Clarkz71: any experience with this? I can't see where there would be a clearance problem with my 300 mm brake rotored E320. What's teh real deal on part swapping? I l;ike serviceable components...

Thanks all, KenH.
 
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