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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks! When I put the different CCM in there was no change in the problems. I'm going to check the right side of the car under the passenger side of the dash to make sure there is no wiring damage. Also going to replace the PSE as I remember when I started out with the problems the Alarm light was flashing on the dash after the battery was changed and there was some moisture around the battery. Now the alarm light on the dash doesn't flash. The PSE makes no sound. It's getting power as the radio still works. No fuses are blown.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Just because the radio works, it does not mean the PSE is fully powered. It is correct that the PSE and the radio shares one fuse, but the PSE actually receives main power from Fuse 19 which is rated at 40 amps. The alarm circuit also relies on Fuse 19 power. Check the fuse, and make sure it has 12V on it with respect to chassis.

For the CCM make sure it is well grounded. You have multiple of the CCM functions not working, so the common point is the grounding. Check all ground studs make sure they are not loose and/or corroded.
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Ok. So I took my car to an indy MB shop locally. Just got a call back saying that the vehicle computer will need to be programmed and that it has to be done at the dealer. Can the main ECU and CCM be the culprit? Trying to determine if I should put more money in the car or sell it.. I only paid $1200 for the car. Anyone know of any mercedes computer specialist that may know of a solution to my problem.
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Thanks mrboca. I will reach out to him. They may have not wanted to fool with the car. I will put the original CCM back in the car and see if I can get him to check it out. I think the PSE by the battery is dead now because it has power going to it and is not doing anything at all even though it worked before. The alarm would sound and the security light would flash on the dash. Now it doesn't. There was some moisture under the seat near it as well. I saw this video on your tube and thought that this may be contribution to the problem as well.

 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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It is correct there is communication between the CCM and the PSE, but for most cases CCM is the man in the middle. It receives signals or messages from other modules and passes them to PSE (like the lock/unlock messages when one presses the remote fob keys). The PSE may be bad, but I do not think it has anything to do with why the windows cannot open/close.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Then definitely the CCM is not powered up. The hazard switch receives power from fuse 5 (under hood driver's side fuse panel) and supplies to the CCM (even when the key is out). The CCM has the electronic flasher that supplies power to the exterior lamps. The left/right turn lamp switches are connected in parallel to the hazard switches.

If the hazard lights are not working, this is because the power is not arriving to the CCM or the ground (brown wire) is not properly connected.
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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46 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Was driving my the car today and it dies on me! The ets light came on and the car won’t start. I just had it towed to an independent repair shop hopefully nothing major. Will update as soon as I hear something. Hopefully they can get to the root of the problems with hurting my pockets too bad
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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Discussion Starter #50
Does the the k40 relay power the combination control module? Will it have anything to do with the crank sensor as far as power? Just got the car back. The independent mechanic replaced the pse pump. He said the k40 was possibly bad along with the combination switch and that there was a problem with the crank sensor being weak. I have another ccm from another car. How do you test a k40 relay? Can it be th root of the problem of why my ccm is bad?
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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K40 has nothing to do with the CCM. The CCM is powered from the fusepanel under the rear seat.

If the car stalled when engine is hot, and did crank but not start, the crankshaft position sensor may need to be replaced. If you waited about 15 minutes till the engine got cooler, maybe the car would have started to take you home.

K40 issues can cause a car not to start, and also to stall (bad relay contacts / solder cracks). It powers the engine computer, transmission module, traction module. fuel pump (for your car), and few other things like horn , and air pump.

Engine power relays, and the fuel pump relay can cause start / stall issues.
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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Discussion Starter #52
This is the bill I received for what has been done. So the K40, Comfort module and crank sensor are bad.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Hmm.. for a $30 crankshaft position sensor. it is a steep price. If you can try replacing yourself.

What is a comfort module ? Is he talking about the Combination Control Module ?

As I said before the CCM does not receive the power from the K40 relay module under the hood (at the passenger side).

It mainly receives power from the rear fuse panel fuse 1,2, 3 (they should have 12 V on both sides of the fuses all the time.

And

driver's side fuse panel fuse 14 (only has power when the key is in position 2 , ie. cct 15) and fuse 22 (only has power when the key is in position 1 ie. cct. 15R)..

It will take you 10 minutes to confirm these, if you can use a multimeter..

Ask him how he determined that the crankshaft position sensor is bad. It could be the connector or the wiring. How did he measure and conform this ?
 

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2000 E 320 Wagon + 2002 ML 500 SUV
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Was driving my the car today and it dies on me! The ets light came on and the car won’t start. I just had it towed to an independent repair shop hopefully nothing major. Will update as soon as I hear something. Hopefully they can get to the root of the problems with hurting my pockets too bad
JC:

Imho, sudden death of function and a no-restart condition on our M112 V-6 or M113 V-8, nearly always equals a bad crank sensor.

Famous for happening under warmer weather, when car is older. Our w210 wagon made it to 17 years old & 190k miles, crank sensor died on 100 degree August afternoon.

There was an angel, disguised as a UPS guy who helped wife push car into parking area. We then let car cool waaaay down to night temps, and was able to restart & drive home with my son driving behind in case it died again.

Once home and shut down, it refused all attempts at restart. Cold or Hot.

Ordered Bosch part from Amazon Prime, $25 and here in 2 days.

My son has nimble hands and did the change out which is tricky as mount bolts are easy to drop & sensor swap is done more by feel than sight.

But, got her done & car started up like a champ !

That was 2 summers ago.

The only other sudden failure item, to my experience is maybe a Fuel pump or clogged fuel filter but the symptoms are different.

These crank sensors are notorious for giving up with no warning so it's a good idea to keep one in your glove box or 'road box' as a spare if you know yours hasn't been changed in a long while & on a road trip.

Just my FYI.

Sounds like they got you fixed, at a price...

David in East Texas
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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Discussion Starter #55
Finally have gotten a chance to work of the car. Bought a used ccm from a car from similar year. Plugged it in and still no movement from the windows sunroof no turn signals no door locks interior lights work but won’t come on when I open the doors. Did get some movement from the drivers seat as it didn’t move before. PSE makes no sound. Still need to replace the crank sensor( is this hard to do? How do I access it?
All fuses have power does the ccm need to be programmed or is it plug in play
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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6,678 Posts
As I indicated before, the CCM is not receiving power from fuses 14 and 22 which are located on the driver's side fuse panel. These fuses provide power when the ignition key is turned to position 1 and position 2 respectively. If the CCM does not receive these indications, it will not operate equipment that normally operates when the key is in position 1,2 or position 2 only. The driver's seat will work with key out because the CCM seems to be receiving always-on power from the rear fuse panel. It appears that the PSE is not powered either. Do the door locks work when you use the metal key on the door lock, or it does not work at all (central locking button inside the car, remote fob lock / unlock, and driver's door lock) ??

For the CKP sensor, you should look for the stickies regarding how to remove and install the crankshaft position sensor, and what tools you need.
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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Discussion Starter #57
I will check on this tomorrow. The door locks and alarm did not work. If I find that there is no power coming from to the fuses what options are there? The alarm light doesn’t flash and I can’t get interior door switch to lock the doors. Interior lights work when I turn them in but don’t work when the door is open.
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Many problems tie to the PSE too. You need to get the PSE working. The door locks are controlled by the PSE, and the interior lights (including the courtesy door lights) turn on when the PSE detects that a door is opened, and signals it to the CCM. It is the CCM that turns the lights on and off, but it needs to get a signal from the PSE. So make sure that the PSE is powered up and works.

Measure voltages on the rear fuse panel fuses with respect to ground, including the 40 amp (orange) fuse that powers the PSE.
 

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1976 300d | 1997 e320
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Discussion Starter #59
Not getting any power to the ccm at all no fuses are not blown though. This is weird. The pse pump has no power either. Are there any relays or circuits that need to be checked
 

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1998 E320 base sedan @ 160kmiles
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Look at the diagram I posted. There are 6 red wires that go from the Positive battery terminal to the rear fuse box. That is why I suggested that you check the voltages on the fuses (one probe on the fuse test point on each fuse at either side, and the other probe touching to the chassis ground or negative terminal of the battery. You may have a bad fuse panel or problem with red wiring.

You should get 12V on each of the fuses connected to red wires in the diagram.
 
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