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'98 MB E320 Sedan RWD (w210.065 w/ 112.941) 151,000 MI
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I would like to share with the rest of the forum my experience with replaceing my Serpentine belt and pulley.

Ok now for the real fun,but first I own a 98 e320 with the V-6 so in case your not sure my designations are (210.065, eng 112.941).

The reason I needed to replace these items was due to the Cracked idler pulley (see pic)

View attachment 246191
View attachment 246192

Tools required:
Semi deep 12 point 17MM Socket
Light (Flash, shop, etc..)
Long breaker bar or a Serpentine tool (Auto parts store 29.99)

Helpful hint:

Ability to get car up to working level to save back strain.

Futhermore,
First, BEFORE STARTING, DRAW A PICTURE OF BELT ROUTING TO ENSURE THAT IT IS REPLACED PROPERLY!!!


you do not need to remove ANYTHING except the Plastic Cowling on the engine

Next take your breaker bar with the 17mm semi deep socket in place put it on the bolt that is at the 7 o clock position (just to the left and down of tensioner(see pic)

View attachment 246193

With a steady pressure turn the bolt to the LEFT or towards the passenger side as you look at the engine. With your left hand pull up slack in belt and remove.

Half way done:

Now it is worth noting here, that at this point, I replaced the idler pulley which takes maybe 15 min to swap out.

Remove black plastic cover on pulley with a screwdriver,Make sure you catch it, with 15 mm socket remove bolt (pic) and replace pulley.

IMPORTANT NOTE: cracks in pulley
View attachment 246195 View attachment 246196


With the new belt carefully route around pulleys per your drawing making sure to not twist the belt. I found it easier to begin at the bottom of the pulleys (A/C) and route towards the crankshaft then tensioner,W/P,P/S, and Idler pulley, then with the breaker bar, install onto tensioner bolt again and turn toward passenger side again and slide belt onto ALT pulley.

Replace engine plastic, clean up , drink a beer your done.

Total time 1 hr
 

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2006 CLK 350
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1,133 Posts
Wow! Looks ugly... lucky you caught it in time... @ 150K miles, were there any symptoms?? unusual noise/sound?

Isn't the outer pulley made of metal? What would cause it to crack like that and break off?

What is the part number and cost?

Thanks.. :)
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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3,926 Posts
This is an unusual failure. Something might have hit it and caused the chip.

The usual failure is dry out/loss of grease and that causes the center bearing failure (noise first). These bearings are not 100% sealed because the grease seal can be lifted with a tiny pick and then re-greased.
 

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'98 MB E320 Sedan RWD (w210.065 w/ 112.941) 151,000 MI
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Wow! Looks ugly... lucky you caught it in time... @ 150K miles, were there any symptoms?? unusual noise/sound?

Isn't the outer pulley made of metal? What would cause it to crack like that and break off?

What is the part number and cost?

Thanks.. :)
Unit,

First let me say that this is NOT caused by 'SOMETHING HITTING IT". these are made from a plastic that with time,heat,vibration,and wear from the belt causes fractures in the hub.

The only indication was the crack on the face, that is clearly visible. THERE is NO Prior notification other than that.

Once I removed it there was grease leaking from inside the hub so that MAYBE an indication.

the part number is 000-202-00-19 And it was 22.74 on Peachparts.com
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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37,855 Posts
I would suggest to change the topic subject to "Idler puller replacement"
So in case somebody does a search in the future, he will be able to find it.
Nice writeup
From the plastic deterioration on the part looks to me that this is another case of substandard materials, or the pulley got badly overheated.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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31,631 Posts
Here's another DIY on another forum:
BenzObsession.com View topic - M112 and M113 Idler Pulley Replacement

Just a couple of thoughts/notes.

MRBSMITH has noted more than once that if you're over 100K miles you should replace the part. I think that is a reasonable suggestion. I got a Febi from Importec for $18 and change. At 103K there were some cracks in it and a bit of bearing play.

I used to think it was a poor design with the plastic. I now think it's a smart choice for the following reasons.

First, plastic doesn't conduct heat nearly as well as metal. Thus, the belt pulling over the pulley doesn't add that frictional heat to the bearing, nor does it absorb it from the engine compartment and transfer that to the bearing.

Second, it makes it an inexpensive part that is easily changed. (On the V6 sans mechanical fan you DON'T have to remove the engine cover OR the belt, at least if you can work with both hands. Look at the DIY linked above, it literally took me longer to get out the tools and put them away than it did to change the idler pulley, I was done in a bit over ten minutes.) If it were a metal part with a replaceable bearing, the bearing would probably cost over $20 and then you'd have to remove the belt, remove the pulley, head to the workbench, clean it up, remove the hardware holding the bearing, replace the bearing, reinstall the hardware, reinstall the pulley and reinstall the belt, all of which probably would take an hour, maybe more if you had to fight the bearing out of the pulley. Or you'd be able to purchase a new unit for fifty bucks.

Third, using MRBSMITH's advice costs you roughly $20 every hundred thousand miles. Calling this a design flaw is pretty nasty IMHO. You'd have to change it at some point anyway, right? And there aren't very many other $20 mechanical parts on this car that last to 100K miles without a problem, are there?

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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MRBSMITH has noted more than once that if you're over 100K miles you should replace the part.
That would mean my cars is 90,000 past due


As far as I know besides some orings, fuel tubings and engine mounts our 190K E300td is all original.
Replaced serpentine belt last month. Looks like the old one was original as well.
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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That would mean my cars is 90,000 past due

As far as I know besides some orings, fuel tubings and engine mounts our 190K E300td is all original.
Replaced serpentine belt last month. Looks like the old one was original as well.
Well, the diesels are their own animal anyway.... :p
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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I found out that the original Idler pulley was updated but cannot find out when this took place.

The old part is 000 202 00 19 and the new one is 000 202 09 19.

The picture in MRBSMITH article clearly shows 000 202 00 19, the old part.

Since the OP has a 1998, if it is the original pulley, it is reasonable to assume it is also the old part.

Now I read OP replaced it with the part from peachparts, that also has the old part number.
 

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2000 ML320, 2008 CLS550
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The idler pulley on my E320 came off or broke off on the freeway last week. The belt was shredded in pieces. Fortunately, no other damage to the surrounding components. Should of DIY with the instruction from this thread. It ended up costing me $325 for the replacement of the idler pulley and belt at an independent shop. Thanks all!
 

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'01-E320 & 02-ST2
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I ordered 0002020019OE Idler Pulley/Roller; Grooved Belt Idler Pulley at Fan Bearing Bracket from autohausaz.

I am replacing it this weekend. Will upload pic.
Check the link on post #8 for a DIY with pics.

Looking at the pics in it I'm still surprised that the cracks develop first on the inside of the pulley around the inside hub. Just strange they don't develop on the outside, too. Then you could just pop the dust cap to see how it's doing.

Good luck with the swap; five minutes on the V6 without the mechanical fan. ;)
 

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2000 E320 Sedan Elegance
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I found out that the original Idler pulley was updated but cannot find out when this took place.

The old part is 000 202 00 19 and the new one is 000 202 09 19.

The picture in MRBSMITH article clearly shows 000 202 00 19, the old part.

Since the OP has a 1998, if it is the original pulley, it is reasonable to assume it is also the old part.

Now I read OP replaced it with the part from peachparts, that also has the old part number.
So for a 2000 E320 I need the new one? This right? 000 202 09 19?

Cheers..
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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I was hoping that by the time MB put 320 engines into W211, they improved the design.
Tonight wife rang the door bell. She had no front door key as we usually use garage to get to the house, but she left the car 1/2 mile from home as she could not drive it with red lights flashing and no PS.
2004 model with 150k miles.
Part # 0002020019OE
 

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1996 SL500, 2000 E430, 2011 E350
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With a 2000 E430 (I am sure there is mostly parts interchangeability with the M112) I am wondering if I should just replace the bearing before I go on another long trip. I remember reading an article some years ago in the MBCA Star Magazine, from the head mechanic of a Bay Area MB dealer.

His E55 was, of course, stopped dead miles from home all because there were cracks in the plastic back of his idler pulley bearing and the grease all came out. You can check it with a mirror looking behind it but if it like that and there is an improved version why not just put a new one on?
 
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