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Discussion Starter #21
there's not really any room up front for an amp, its pretty packed behind the dash. you neglected to mention that you'll need 4 RCA patch cords from the stereo head to the amp, too, not just power, ground, amp control, and 4 pairs of speaker wires.
Right! My head unit has rca speaker outputs, so I'll need a pair of those. Then I need to tap into 4 speakers can I do that from the head unit just splice the wires from the and disconnect it from the head unit. So it goes from HEAD Unit to amp to speakers. Do you think it would be ok to not rewire the speakers and two just tap into them? Why do you say 4 rca patch cords and not 2?
 

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best place to run a wiring bundle from front to rear is along the right side of the transmission hump. remove the passenger side floor, remove the passenger seat, remove the back seat bottom, then remove the door sills, and you can run the wires under the carpet pushed up against the trans. hump...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'll figure out wiring it now I just gotta buy the kit and the amp, what is a good RMS rating amp to get. Like for A combined power demand of 320w rms.
 

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thats not a demand, that's the max limit for the speakers above which sustained power would fry them.

i'm way out of touch with car stereo, last amp I installed was an a/d/s 'plate' 440i.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Oh geez so would a 4 channel amp with about 280-300watts RMS combined do the job just fine? I really don't want to fry them.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
thats not a demand, that's the max limit for the speakers above which sustained power would fry them.

i'm way out of touch with car stereo, last amp I installed was an a/d/s 'plate' 440i.
Ok I ended up going with the Kenwood KAC-304 600 Watt Class D Bridgeable Multi-Channel Amplifier
Found used on eBay for $40.
It is rated 50 Watts RMS x 4 Channels at 4 Ohms. But these have been dynod on amp tester and do 60 Watts RMS x 4 Channels at 4 Ohms.
Total of 600 Peak
I think it is a great one because it is a Kenwood and will power my speakers about 3 times as much as my build it amp. There is also no fear of completely overpowering my speakers, cause it just can't push more than 60.
I am gonna wire it in and am thinking about putting it somewhere in the passenger footwell. Maybe under the metal alarm protector or all the way at the end or something. I really don't want to take 8 wires to the trunk of my car, I guess I can take my passenger seat out to rewire my subwoofer. Cause honestly I routed my previous wires through the door sills. But I doubt 4 gauge will fit in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
best place to run a wiring bundle from front to rear is along the right side of the transmission hump. remove the passenger side floor, remove the passenger seat, remove the back seat bottom, then remove the door sills, and you can run the wires under the carpet pushed up against the trans. hump...


Hey just a quick question so I’m going to wire the amp in, but I don’t want to touch the door speakers, so if I just rerouted my front and rear speakers to my new amp would it affect the door speakers? Do the door speakers go to the head unit or take signal from the front or rear?


95’ E320 Sedan
 

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the door speakers are connected to the activebass amp in the trunk. that in turn gets its input from the front speaker wiring. you will probably want to unplug taht amp so you don't overpower it
 

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Discussion Starter #30
the door speakers are connected to the activebass amp in the trunk. that in turn gets its input from the front speaker wiring. you will probably want to unplug taht amp so you don't overpower it
Ok, so there is no way I can retain the door speakers?
 

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the activebass system was closely tuned to the characteristics of the stock speakers and stereo. your much more powerful amp will likely overdrive its inputs, resulting in distortion. the activebass was well balanced at low to moderate volumes with the stock system, it can't handle cranked up rock and roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I know that, I just want to know how much power the factory amp is rated at, if I was to hook it up to the two-door speakers to my head unit wiring harness instead of the head unit speaker outputs .could it just take 22 RMS per speaker? Instead of it going through the factory amp it could just tap into the head units front door speaker harness(not the inputs) and I can disconnect it from where it taps into the front speakers.
 

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Simplest solution, (also what I did) is to add new head unit with rca sub out and selectable crossover points. Limit the dash and deck speakers (rear door for wagons) to mid and high, ( I think 175-200hz is what I used. And let your sub do the really lows. That way the small speakers aren't trying to produce bass they can not do. So you can get more volume with less distortion. My dash got some cheaper "cadence" speakers that dropped in perfect. So you only add amp for the sub, let factory active bass set up work as designed, but without burden of low midbass/bass.
 

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the factory activebass amp has pretty heavy equalization on it to emphasis 'midbass' and drop low bass that the 5" woofer couldn't handle. the factory dash and rear speakers are 6 ohm instead of the more common 4 ohms, i don't know what the door bass speakers are.

if you have a real subwoofer, I'd leave the factory door 'active bass' speakers disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
the factory activebass amp has pretty heavy equalization on it to emphasis 'midbass' and drop low bass that the 5" woofer couldn't handle. the factory dash and rear speakers are 6 ohm instead of the more common 4 ohms, i don't know what the door bass speakers are.

if you have a real subwoofer, I'd leave the factory door 'active bass' speakers disconnected.
I don't mean to sound annoying, but I can noticeably tell all the bass coming from the rear, which actually is a little annoying, I want some kick up front too, and those door speakers kinda do that in a way. My front and rear speakers are balanced but don't have that much bass, maybe the amp will help the power of the 4 inches and make them sound a little better.
All I am saying is: is their any way to keep my door speakers or will I just have to kill them off :crying
 

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Low frequencies are non directional. If you can hear them behind you, you have them x'd over too high, or not at all. Use head unit to only send over 175/200hz to factory speakers and sub to do 250 and below. Try that out see how it sounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
the factory activebass amp has pretty heavy equalization on it to emphasis 'midbass' and drop low bass that the 5" woofer couldn't handle. the factory dash and rear speakers are 6 ohm instead of the more common 4 ohms, i don't know what the door bass speakers are.

if you have a real subwoofer, I'd leave the factory door 'active bass' speakers disconnected.
Oh and btw my front speakers are 4 ohms the model number is 124 820 39 02 and my rear model number is 124 820 41 02, it doesn't say the ohms on it. I haven't ever taken my doors off so Idk.
 

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Low frequencies are non directional. If you can hear them behind you, you have them x'd over too high, or not at all. Use head unit to only send over 175/200hz to factory speakers and sub to do 250 and below. Try that out see how it sounds.
Getting a sub to integrate with the front stage in a car is no easy task, especially for people who like bass heavy music. It's generally understood that frequencies below about 80hz (or thereabouts) are not localizable. This would require a crossover point of 40hz or below with a very steep slope and absolutely no rattles to be borne out in the car.

But this is not practical for most installs, and overcoming it it requires DSP (and the ability to use it) to correct phase at the overlap.

Most car audio amps that have been available for the past 20 or so years are 2ohm stable.
 

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Well there you go, I have dsp on my head unit, not sure if it uses the mic to calibrate? 20 years...ha bout how long I've been out of the car audio game 😁
 
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