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Discussion Starter #1
I am located in California and I wanted to know if any one knows drop-in speakers that require little to no work to install. I want front or rear or both. Thank you!


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AFAIK, the Rainbows were the sole true matched plug and play speaker set specifically designed and manufactured for the W124.

I sold my last brand new set to a forum member not too long ago. He seems to be very pleased with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Drop in means direct fit in the car, so no modifying the speaker base. Basically just plug and play.
 

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The rainbow 120 W124 kit were pretty expensive. those quantums look a lot like the CarPower CPB-120PP's I've put in several 124's, they fit in the dash perfectly, you just need to take the wiring connector off the original speakers and connect it to the CarPowers (or those Quantums). They seem to work pretty well witht he 'active bass' front door woofers, too, if you stick with the original wiring (and your activebass drivers and amp still work)

Carpower CRB-120PP Pair of car chassis speakers 4© | Loudspeaker freaks

note shipping times from these guys can get somewhat random, and they never did reply to my queries, but I did eventually get my speakers as ordered... they are in the Netherlands.

I believe the rear deck speakres are a different size, but its easier to custom fit larger speakers back there in the parcel shelf.


note if you're installing an after market deck, the factory wiring has the speakers wired with common ground, and aftermarket decks do NOT like that, so you need to find the speaker '-' sides down under the center console aft of the shifter, and seperate them and run seperate - wires to the various channels of the deck.

if your car has 'sound system' (an upgraded setup with 3-way speakers in back, and dual amplifiers in the trunk) then all bets are off, I've never messed with those.
 

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You can find the Rainbows on eBay. Unfortunately, they have doubled in price since I bought mine in 2016 and 2017. Here are a couple links. The rears need adapters, which can also be purchased separately.

I am VERY pleased with the Rainbows. I have them running from an amplifier that puts out 70W to each speaker and they sound fantastic, despite being small and coaxial. I think you'd be very hard pressed to find a better sounding speaker that is under 5 inches. But man, at the current price...ugh. Maybe more searching will find better deals.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rainbow-dl-x4-7-Dream-Line-12cm-2-wege-koaxial-Coaxial-Speaker-4-Ohm-Coax-1-Pair-/391973447623?hash=item5b437027c7

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rainbow-il-x4-7-MB-W124-REAR-FOR-MERCEDES-E-CLASS-W124-Speaker-1-Pair-/391930607034?hash=item5b40e275ba
 

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i have the rainbows in my wifes car and the Carpower 120PP's in two other cars, all using similar Pioneer '50Wx4' decks.... frankly, I can't tell much difference between them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for your help, but I think i'm going to go with the quantums esx qe120s. The Rainbows might be better, but their a little too much. I like ebay so i'm not getting the car powers. I have the active bass speakers not the sound system. Thank you all!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i have the rainbows in my wifes car and the Carpower 120PP's in two other cars, all using similar Pioneer '50Wx4' decks.... frankly, I can't tell much difference between them.


Do you know which one will sound better the Quantums or Carpower 120pp’s


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"Sound better" is a matter of preference. Everybody has their own taste when it comes to audio.

I love audio, just not in a car. Worst environment to enjoy music IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I put in all 4 of the Esx Quantum Qe-120s and holy crap their amazing. At first the highs were to high but over the past month they have evened out so much. So worth $150. I was dumbfounded when I hear them with my JVC KD-X340BTS stereo. Thank you guys for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, back to this thread so over a year I have modified my audio greatly from stock, I have installed Esx Quantum Qe-120s 4" front dash and rear deck. My current deck is the JVC KD-X340BTS stereo. My subwoofer setup is a dual 12 inch skar IX-12 with an RMS rating of 500w and max of 1000, it is being powered by this mono channel amp, the Jbl Club 5501 which is rated at 550 watts but can push out around 650rms on dynos. So that terrifies me because I am using Rockville 8 gauge wiring from my old sub which isn't the best, and I know I need 4 gauge so I am about to rewire it. So now I also want to figure out my current setup, door speakers and car speakers. My Esx- Quantums are rated 80w RMS and 160 max. So because I have four of them I need at least a 300w amp. My car has the " active bass" system and my dad got Mercedes to install a 6 cd changer back in 1999. And I noticed it plugs into the same AMP the front door speakers are powered by. I already have an amp for the sub I really don't want 3, if I was to upgrade the door speakers would I be able to connect them to a 6 channel amp or is there something easier? I also don't need to rewire my speakers if I don't have a fader right? This is a silly question, but if I use the sub or audio outputs on my head unit deck will it use combine the head unit amp power and the external amp power?
 

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the front door speakers are small subwoofers, in plastic enclosures, driven by the 'activebass' amp N40/3 in the trunk. to replace those with something else, you'd need to disconnect that activebass amp and connect the speaker wires to another amplifier. the left door speaker + is connected to the yellow/red wire on N40/3 pin 2, and - to the yellow wire on N40/3 pin 1. the right door speaker + is blue/red on N40/3 pin 11, and - is blue on N40/3 pin 12.

the sub and audio outputs of your head unit are 'line' level, only suitable for running to an external amplifier, and have no effect on the speaker outputs of the head unit.

assuming your amplifier is connected via RCA jacks, you could run small speakers off the head's 4 channels but it would be difficult to equalize, and those head units tend to only have like 11-15 watts RMS per channel (often advertised as 4x50W 'peak music power').
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the front door speakers are small subwoofers, in plastic enclosures, driven by the 'activebass' amp N40/3 in the trunk. to replace those with something else, you'd need to disconnect that activebass amp and connect the speaker wires to another amplifier. the left door speaker + is connected to the yellow/red wire on N40/3 pin 2, and - to the yellow wire on N40/3 pin 1. the right door speaker + is blue/red on N40/3 pin 11, and - is blue on N40/3 pin 12.

the sub and audio outputs of your head unit are 'line' level, only suitable for running to an external amplifier, and have no effect on the speaker outputs of the head unit.

assuming your amplifier is connected via RCA jacks, you could run small speakers off the head's 4 channels but it would be difficult to equalize, and those head units tend to only have like 11-15 watts RMS per channel (often advertised as 4x50W 'peak music power').
My Jvc unit is rated 22w RMS and 50 max which is pretty good for its price. I feel as it distorts at low volumes like 21-22 which sucks. I use a pre-tuned EQ default I haven't got my gains on my sub amp tuned professionally I did it by ear and I don't believe the RMS rating of 22w. I feel like it's introducing distortion early, so an aftermarket amp could do the job way better. Do you think I might need to upgrade my head unit or is it ok? So what your saying is the sub output are line level and aren't affected by the built-in head unit amp? I really don't want to rewire my factory speaker wire, so I should probably install it in the front of the car because I can't access the front dash speakers in the rear. Again for the door speakers if I upgrade them do you think I could get one extra amp to power all the speakers in the car accept the subwoofer?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I guess I could just let the door speakers be, as they work fine, but I still want to add an amp for my front and rear speakers as a 22w RMS head unit is underpowering 80w RMS speakers. So where is the best place to put a 4 channel amp that taps into all the speakers without rewiring the system, all I want to do is take power from the battery and ground the amp, and have a remote turn-on wire, and just connect the amp to the four speakers.
 

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there's not really any room up front for an amp, its pretty packed behind the dash. you neglected to mention that you'll need 4 RCA patch cords from the stereo head to the amp, too, not just power, ground, amp control, and 4 pairs of speaker wires.
 
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