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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the middle of dropping the transmission on my 1980 300D to replace some seals. I'm at the point of disconnecting the bell housing from the engine. I can get to all the bolts from underneath the car (on jack stands) but the last two located at the top (at about 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock) of the bolt pattern. I also don't seem to be able to reach them from above. Does anyone know how to do this? I'm beginning to think I'll have to put the engine.:confused:
 

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1983 300D
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I removed the frame support on the drivers side and then used a movable head (side to side) ratchet. With the frame support out of the way, depending on your arm size and length, you might be able to get a closed end wrench on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I removed the frame support on the drivers side and then used a movable head (side to side) ratchet. With the frame support out of the way, depending on your arm size and length, you might be able to get a closed end wrench on them.
Not quite sure what you mean by the driver's side frame support.
 

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'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
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those 2 can be a pain on any car. remove the tranny crossmember and drop down the rear of the engine and tranny. you then should be able to get to them. it may take several extentions, universals etc. but you can do it.
 

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I think about 3' of extensions. I have always come at it from the top in the past till learned about dropping the rear mount. On the W123/617.952 that meant humping the engine bay in a very not so good way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think about 3' of extensions. I have always come at it from the top in the past till learned about dropping the rear mount. On the W123/617.952 that meant humping the engine bay in a very not so good way.
Right now I have the rear mount off and the transmission is supported by a jack. If I understand what your saying, I should lower the jack down to tilt the transmission/engine. That sounds good, but what happens when the bolts are removed, does the engine spring back into position?
 

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'84 300D/ dakota benz trk. Sold... miss it. "88 260E '91 190E 2.6 '89 Volvo 240DL "85 300D
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very little if any. once bolts are out, get up under that sucker and wrestle it out. its not that heavy.
 

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1983 300D
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Right now I have the rear mount off and the transmission is supported by a jack. If I understand what your saying, I should lower the jack down to tilt the transmission/engine. That sounds good, but what happens when the bolts are removed, does the engine spring back into position?
Yes lower down as far as it can go. You will also have to lower the center bearing support if the driveshaft is still connected. You can let the tranny's tail hang if needed if you still have the driveshaft connected, if not then keep the jack there. The things to watch out for (but I never had any problems with them) is the potential of the fan hitting the radiator and the cam cover hitting the firewall. You may need four feet worth of extensions and a swivel, and I would get the car jacked up as high as possible to get more leverage on the breaker bar if they are on there pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just bought a Haynes manual and it tells me to remove the torque converter bolts. I haven't seen this anywhere else. Do I have to do it to get the tranny out?
 

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Tilting the tranny down to get to the top two bolts worked, although I'm worried about putting them back. I got the tranny off and out from under the car. It wasn't really that heavy.The torque converter stayed with the engine. Is this a problem? I removed the torque converter bolts (3 sets of 2). Thats as far as I got today.
 

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Before installing the transmission, the torque converter has to be seated in the transmission properly. So yes you have to remove the torque converter. If you try to slip in while it is still attached to the engine, you may end up damaging the front seal, and more importantly shearing off the front pump slot and torque converter tangs.

To seat the torque converter properly you have to rotate it at least 7 revolutions while firmly pressing it in. Each revolution will allow the torque converter to seat deeper in. Thus preventing any parts shearing off while in operation.

And make your get a new front seal before seating the torque converter.
 
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