I've tested it with a multimeter - on two of the contacts it only closes the connection when the plunger is halfway. Andy
Driver's Door Switch
Doesn't work reliably. I've sprayed contact cleaner down the shaft and actuated it dozens of times and it hasn't really helped. I checked on the price of this part and wow - $80 - $120! I would like my foot well lights to come on when I open the door but not at that cost.
The switch is riveted together. Has anyone successfully disassembled and reassembled one of these?
Thanks, Andy
![2637468]()
The switch is riveted together. Has anyone successfully disassembled and reassembled one of these?
Thanks, Andy
1 - 3 of 12 Posts
Thanks for the replies. I plucked up the courage and went for it!
First I drilled out the two rivets using a 3/32" bit. They spin around but pushing on the bit helps to get them to come out.
![2637526]()
![2637527]()
The contacts were corroded on one side.
![2637528]()
![2637529]()
I used some 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small screwdriver to clean the plunger and the contacts in the body.
![2637530]()
I then bolted the parts back together using two M2 x 12mm bolts, two washers and two nuts.
![2637531]()
![2637532]()
Finally I painted the bolt heads and washers with gloss black acrylic paint.
![2637533]()
Total repair cost was about $2.
Andy
First I drilled out the two rivets using a 3/32" bit. They spin around but pushing on the bit helps to get them to come out.
The contacts were corroded on one side.
I used some 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small screwdriver to clean the plunger and the contacts in the body.
I then bolted the parts back together using two M2 x 12mm bolts, two washers and two nuts.
Finally I painted the bolt heads and washers with gloss black acrylic paint.
Total repair cost was about $2.
Andy
1 - 3 of 12 Posts
