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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I have a 1971 406 that is stripped to the frame and I wanted to add the cab tilt brackets to it when I put it back together. I wanted to drill the frame before I paint it and right now I can still use a drill press to do it. I am hoping that someone could measure the location of the hole in the frame for me. I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks
Will
 

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Are you sure that the frame is not at least factory drilled. I do not believe that the tilt function is an `option' on a 406, and would think that all 406 frames would be drilled alike. These may be stupid assumptions on my part ,but most manufacturers try to standardize to save cost and screw ups in production that cost a fortune to `fix' at final inspection.
Dave
 

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406man said that the earlier 406s were not factory drilled (brain burp on the mothership's part to me). At any rate, later I will post pictures with measurements of the optional MB hinges/brackets. That way there will be less chance of non-alignment. I apologize for any out of focus pictures due to the limitations of my camera.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks very much MogMountain the photos where just what I needed!
There are supposed to be some sort of clamp on cab tip device for the early 406's but I have yet to see or hear of anyone that has actually used them.
For the mogs that have the tilt system I think it was Jack Russell that said some shops would make floor stands that bolted to the tabs on the cab instead of messing with the brackets on the frame.
I guess it must have been quicker and easier for in shop uses.

Will
 

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If you are carefull, and I mean REALLY EFFIN carefull, you can tilt the cab without the brackets. I've done it, but wouldn't if your front lower rail has rust issues. You just have to find a way to keep the cab from swinging side to side, I used two big ratchet straps, and had the cab hanging from a gantry the first two times. The third, a big maple branch. If you don't need to tilt it more than halfway, you really dont need the brackets, just go slow and lift evenly. There is one thing that is easy to break, and spendy to fix! The fuel return line exits the head at the rear of the cylinder head, passenger side. Remove the banjo bolt and tuck the line out of the way before doing anything, it is a likely casualty. And can take out a $300 parts list with it. HTH. Back to my beer.......
 

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For those of you that missed the shenanigans, disregard my last post as it has nothing to do with this thread in its current state.
 
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