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300SD
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Apparently for no reason at all the driver's door on my '85 300D started getting difficult to latch, i.e. I needed to slam it more to latch when closing the door. I greased the lock and the door striker and it got a little better. Then I decided to try to adjust the door striker. Big mistake! I have done this before successfully on other Benzes, but this time it was frustrating. No matter what I did, the door would not close smoothly and easily like it did before (all three other doors do). There is no damage to the door, the door is not sagging on the hinges, so I am really confused. No matter how I position the striker I cannot make it work right. It seems that even at its extreme position closest to the door it does not allow for proper latching.

What is the problem here? Any insight? The lock on the door is not adjustable. The lock tapered guiding pin appears to be in good shape and the bottom slot of the striker is not gouged and neither is the lock. Maybe I should try a new striker? Or file off some metal from the leading edge of the bottom slot to make it easier for the lock to latch? Maybe they do not provide enough adjustment on these strikers to allow for good door adjustment. The striker was already at its extreme position closest to the door. I even tried shimming the striker (there are special MB shims made for this and I had a few), without any success.

And thankfully I did not have to deal with stripped Allen head screws in this case (I am sure many are familiar with this problem).

Is there some trick to properly adjusting these strikers that I am not aware of?
 

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1995 SL600
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108 Posts
Hmmm ...

... I've found that the little piece of felt insert in the door catch spring will bind up sometimes and prevent the catch from proper tension. I tend to think that it's got to be something like that as you clearly know what you are doing with door lock adjustment. Ned
 

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300SD
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What spring felt insert are you talking about? Do you have to remove the door panel to see it?
 

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1979 280CE
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6,118 Posts
its a long shot but are you sure the seal isn't getting caught between the door and the car?
 

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1979 280CE
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6,118 Posts
Take a known good striker from one of the other doors and see if it works.
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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16,161 Posts
On the striker receiver, there is a rubber piece that attaches at the bottom of the rubber component. This small rubber piece is what hits the rotating lever mechanism inside the door striker mechanism in the driver door and allows it to catch the receiver properly to latch it good and tight.

If this piece is missing, has fallen off or gone bad, it can cause the problems you're having. Solution is to replace the rubber insert.
 

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300SD
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11,191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are these rubber inserts available separately from the dealer or some other source?
 

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1979 280CE
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6,118 Posts
Yeah you have to buy the whole thing. I got mine from autohausaz....
 

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1995 SL600
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108 Posts
I like the ...

... rubber insert idea better :). Yes, to get at the catch, the door panel has to come off and the unit dropped out after removing the outside handle. The rubber is much easier. If you hold the outer handle out and move the catch and it has good spring in it, forget my suggestion :). Ned
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After inspecting the other strikers, the problem on the driver's door is obvious. The small rubber piece on the bottom is missing. Thanks a lot for the responses. I really appreciate the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah you have to buy the whole thing. I got mine from autohausaz....
They have them under "door lock cylinders". The price is about $ 15 a piece. Not bad. I think that this is one part you do not want to get used as the rubber is old and brittle and will eventually fail.
 

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'81 240d
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229 Posts
You might try popping open the door panel and have a look at all the different latching linkage. If a linking bar pops out, you may have trouble opening and shutting the door. Removing the door panels is quick and easy, you just need a screwdriver, and it should be very obvious if your linkage isn't hooked up right.
 

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85 300CDT / 95 Accord / 07 Acura RDX
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206 Posts
Sorry for resurrecting a three-year-old post, but I'm having a hard time finding anything inasmuch as a write-up goes for adjusting the doors on these things. All I've been able to find are threads where folks are having the same problems as I am with one of the doors on my 85 300CD.

Any gurus out there got something bookmarked? Beige? RMAC? :surrender:
 

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Use a 3/16 punch and a light ball peen hammer to shock the screws.
20 moderate hits center of each to break the corrosion bond.
Apply penetrant, wait for a few minutes and repeat.
The door striker is adjusted by trial and error.
Watch the pin as it approaches the striker and align for height.
Then ease the striker in towards the body so that body cut and door lines match.
Adjust the striker out if the door won't close or requires force.
The idea is to match cut lines and door to body closely with a moderate closing force.
Adjust striker height based on wear from the pin.
It is an iterative process
 

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1985 300D W123 Cali
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1,408 Posts
When adjusting mine once, I was having a helluva time. I greased the door side mechanism and it went together very quickly. If your strike is missing the little tab on the bottom, you're going to have a bad time.
 

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85 300CDT / 95 Accord / 07 Acura RDX
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206 Posts
Use a 3/16 punch and a light ball peen hammer to shock the screws.
20 moderate hits center of each to break the corrosion bond.
Apply penetrant, wait for a few minutes and repeat.
The door striker is adjusted by trial and error.
Watch the pin as it approaches the striker and align for height.
Then ease the striker in towards the body so that body cut and door lines match.
Adjust the striker out if the door won't close or requires force.
The idea is to match cut lines and door to body closely with a moderate closing force.
Adjust striker height based on wear from the pin.
It is an iterative process
Do you remove the screws entirely or just loosen them enough to adjust?
I'm thinking - based upon your instructions - I need to adjust in since the DS door sticks out just a little bit, not lining up with the rear body panel.
 

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I replaced both strikers and the 8 screws.
Removed and replaced.
Align as best you can the striker with the pin.
Adjust later if wear indicates.
Move the striker in to align the door and body panel gap.
If the striker is moved in too far the door will not close or close hard.
Move out to adjust.
Likely not a factory alignment due to door hinge wear.
 

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'80 300TD. '83 300D. '84 300D Euro!
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This evening, I logically solved the problem of aligning the door lock striker ("a123-720-01-04") to the inside of the door frame before tightening the four bolts. Then, when I put the theory into practice, it worked exactly the way I thought it would.

My driver's door wasn't closing. I changed the striker so it had both rubber stops on the bottom, the ones that get old and break off. They are the ones that initiate the first and second "clicks" when the locking mechanism engages (or spins or rotates). Then I noticed that I could see the striker on the passenger, which was working. side from inside the car.

With the door open, I PUSHED the striker onto the alignment pin and PUSHED it in far enough so the lock clicked twice. Then I noticed that the striker was firmly held in place (with the door open).

From there, I got into the driver's seat, and slowly closed the door and applied force until the driver's exterior door panel (body) was even with the rear door and the front quarter panel. Then, from inside the car, I used a magic marker to draw a line on the frame along the edge of the big rubber piece, from top to bottom, along the edge of the rubber.

Pushed the door open and removed the striker by "opening" the door using the handle which disengaged the lock which freed the striker. Put the striker on the frame, aligned the edge of the rubber insert with the magic marker line on the frame, and inserted the four bolts and tightened them down hard.

Stood outisde and pushed the door closed. It locked perfectly! What a relief. I noticed that when closed and locked, there's a slight bit of pressure in the lock mechanism so that when the outside or inside handle is pulled to open the door, it pops open a little bit, like removing the lid from a jar under pressure. Cheers, Josiah
 
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