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EASY DASH REMOVAL METHOD

Both these posts should already be in this DIY sticky but I'm having trouble searching them out so I thought I'd bung them in anyway.

This is the easy way that leaves the centre vents in place, many thanks to Foolio for taking the time to post this up originally. I got the dash out of my parts car in about 20 mins thanks to this write up.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/4684683-post36.html


A very detailed write up is below from Greg but this one may scare you as its more involved so maybe don't look at it unless you're ready :)

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1592346-w126-dash-removal-gen-ii.html
 

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http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1660226-what-did-you-do-your-126-a-350.html#post15822474

I rebuilt my FD last weekend, and while I didn't take enough notes and pictures to do a full step-by-step, I can offer some guidance for someone considering tackling theirs. The guide linked to here - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1340751-do-yourself-diy-repair-thread-wheel-7.html#post5612140 - has pretty good instructions, though I differ on some points. I've seen it said that the internals of the FD should be left to the professionals. That does seem true of the calibration side of things, but with care and patience it is possible to repair a failed FD without affecting that. There are pitfalls, yes, but if you're comfortable rebuilding a carburetor, you can probably handle a fuel distributor.
 

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Fuel Distributor rebuild
Professional instructions & detailed pics of how to DIY completely and properly rebuild your fuel distributor the "proper & thorough way" without doing any damage or harm including retaining your existing FD metering settings if they were good prior to opening it up. (if the settings have not been fiddled with then they are most likely to be correct)

A lot of issues with poor idling or lost performance & fuel economy can be attributed to the FD - via the internal diaphram in particular breaking down with age and then tiny particles of rubber lodging in very tiny fuel metering orifices affecting fuel supply to the injectors.
Inside the FD if all these tiny orifices are not checked thoroughly for partial or complete blockage before re-assembly then you are only doing a half job and not addressing the potential critical issues affecting the performance of the FD.
If you do a through job before re-assembly then you will be a happy chappy and reap the rewards of a well performing FD providing accurate fuel metering equally to all injectors.
You can then move on to check each injector is performing properly in the knowledge the FD is doing its job in feeding each injector the correct fuel pressure at all times.

Often the injectors are blamed when they are not the cause/ vacume leaks somewhere are blamed when perhaps they don't exist/ ICV is blamed when it too might be fine/ EHA setting is blamed and fiddled with when that too might be fine.
It is pointles thinking oh yeah i will just open up the FD and change the diaghram and some 0-rings and presto the FD is done & fixed.
Not the case at all and only a partial fix - read on to understand this complex and mysterious mechanical fuel metering device and you will learn all its secrets and probably solve those annoying issues of poor idle/poor performance/poor fuel economy/ poor emissions readings/ inability to obtain that dead smooth idle you desire and and then regain an engine that sings hard all the way through to peak rev range (providing good plugs/leads/dizzi/vacume/timing etc are all ticked off as in good order)

http://www.cis-jetronic.com/public_doc/07.3-0997-06.pdf

Man. wish I had found this 2 weeks ago. lol.
 
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Michael Pillay
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