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speaker fader R&R
Just installed a new speaker fader so I thought I would take apart the old one. Found out it is extremely easy and you should be able to repair yours. The two side panels just snap out. make sure you lift from the bottom only, not stressing the top, if you look closely the side fits under a ridge on the top.

the two sides just pop off. I found hard crud built up on the metal slider wheel, the traces all looked fine, I gave them a quick brass wire brush clean up.

last picture show I snapped off one of the top lips, it is probably still usable even like that. There is also a tine spring on the side with 3 prongs dont lose it.
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After the US Army spent $25,000 beack in '79 to train me I'd first use spray contact cleaner shot from underneath (out and away from the glossy panel of course ;) ) shake it off and spray again, let it dry while running the thumbwheel back and forth, then snap it apart for just a dab of dielectric grease. I did the same with window and seat switches and work better than new. I know of at least one rear window switch I'll have to clean, can't even move it at the moment
 

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Sounds like a Coke spill to me. Makes me wonder what it does to our innerds...

Get after it, Wook.
Yea, watch one of the many online videos and you'll stop drinkin' it :eek

Yea, I'll swap out with a couple of my spares here, clean em later and become new spares :thumbsup:
 

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560SEC stuck window troubleshoot/repair

I made a video based on what I learned repairing my stuck front passenger window. I hope it's worthy. If anyone has 10 minutes to watch it and let me know if I missed anything or whatnot, I can always add noted to the video.

 

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OM603 Thermostat Replacement DIY

So it appears that us OM603 diesel folks are underrepresented in this forum, or so I hear. With that in mind, I have posted a DIY for the thermostat on an O603 diesel.

Enjoy!

You'll need:

A 602 200 00 15 thermostat
10mm wrench
10mm socket, ratchet and extensions (3/8" worked best for me)
Phillips head screwdriver
2 gallons of MB coolant
Drain pan or bucket

1.) Start with a car that is relatively cool. You don't want to be draining coolant out of a hot engine, as you could potentially damage it. Get the car in the air so you can access underneath the engine compartment.

2.) Look below the radiator for the drain plug. It's typically a blue plastic plug with a + shape in it that fits a Phillips head screwdriver perfectly. With some sort of drain pan or bucket below, unscrew the drain plug and allow the radiator to start draining. Go above and remove the radiator cap from the coolant reservoir. This will now allow the coolant to drain more rapidly.

3.) With the coolant drained, locate the thermostat housing. It's on the side of the engine, above the alternator and between the turbo and engine block. You can follow the lower radiator hose from the radiator up to find it, too. There are two 10mm bolts holding it in place - one at the top and one at the bottom.

4.) Remove the 10mm bolts from the thermostat housing. Be prepared for some coolant to come out, so have your bucket or drain pan ready. The bottom bolt is easily accessed from below with a 3/8" ratchet and short extension. The top bolt can be loosened with a 10mm combination wrench from above, then turned out by hand from below.

5.) Make note of the orientation of the thermostat in the housing before you remove it. Note that the "disk" on the thermostat goes into the engine. Remove the old thermostat and set aside.

6.) Take new thermostat and install the O-ring. Note that the O-ring has a groove inside of it that fits over the outside edge of the thermostat disc. Carefully install the O-ring and make sure it's in place all the way around the thermostat.

Continued in next post.
 

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OM603 Thermostat Replacement DIY - Part 2

7.) Place the thermostat into the housing, making note of the notch or raised projection in the thermostat housing. The thermostat has a cutout or notch that corresponds with this projection, and will only fit one way. If the thermostat won't seat in the housing, this is the reason why - rotate it until the cutout drops into the projection.

Once the thermostat is seated in the housing, put the housing back in place. I like to put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the bolts after I've hit them with a wire brush to clean the threads out. Start both bolts by hand and run them down as far as you can. I found this easiest to do from below the car. Once both are run down, tighten to the specified torque (check the WIS for this, I'll post it once I find it.)

8.) Screw the radiator drain back in and make sure it's snug.

9.) I like to use a premix when refilling my cooling systems, as I think it's easier than trying to guess how much to put in and finding out you've overfilled with coolant. Keep an empty coolant jug and mark it as "Premix". Fill it half full of coolant and top it off with water for a 50-50 mix. If you want a different concentration of coolant, adjust accordingly. You can use it to refill your vehicles as well.

10.) Once you have filled the cooling system, replace the cap on the reservoir, turn on the heater and start the car. Best to take it on a little test drive. You'll see the coolant temperature all over the place as the air is purged from the system, but once it's done heat will start to flow and the gauge will stabilize.

Allow the system to cool and check the level. Top off as necessary with premix.

Clean up your mess and tools, and treat yourself to an adult beverage of your choice.

Dan
 

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Removing Pinstriping

My 1990 350SDL had pin striping of the sort we all see on this vintage car. It was real paint, not tape, and due to age and weathering was getting sort of dodgy looking.

I had read a lot of different approaches to removing this kind of pinstripe, so I picked the one that seemed to be the most popular - oven cleaner.

NOTE: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISTAKES, DAMAGE, INJURIES, ETC., THAT MIGHT OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING THIS. IF YOU DO SO, IT IS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I AM MERELY DESCRIBING MY EXPERIENCE FOR THE BENEFIT OF OTHERS.

Here are the materials I used:

Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (original, no scented or "no fumes" kind)
Q-Tips
Plastic scraper/putty knife
Quick Detailing spray or cleaner
Meguire's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
Wax
Shop rags, cloths, wax applicator

I started by testing the oven cleaner on a small part of the pin striping on the passenger side rear fender. Why? Whenever I test something on the car's finish, I always do it on the passenger side. If the test fails or even does some damage, I won't see it every time I get in the car.

I sprayed some oven cleaner into the cap, then dipped a Q-Tip into the liquid and carefully covered a short length of the stripe. I let the oven cleaner sit on the stripe for approximately five minutes.

After five minutes was up, I took the plastic scraper and scraped the stripe. It came up without too much effort. Once I removed the stripe from the area I treated with the oven cleaner, I wiped the area off with a microfiber towel and some quick detailing spray. You can use just about anything that would be safe for cleaning a car's painted surface, as the intent is to remove any oven cleaner residue.

Once I determined what it would take to remove the stripe, I treated the stripe for the length of a full panel.

After five minutes, I started scraping the stripe. I found in a couple of areas where the paint wasn't as worn I had to reapply some over cleaner a second time to get all of the paint off.

Once this was done, I wiped down the area with quick detailer. I tried to stay within panel lines so I didn't have to treat a whole panel.

After wiping the panel down, I applied the Meguire's polish by hand over the treated area. This isn't the ideal way to use this product, but the idea was to clean the panel and cut down any discoloration from where the oven cleaner was applied.

Wipe the panel down after rubbing out the polish. Apply your wax of choice to the treated part of the panel and remove as required.

Move on to the next panel.

It took me about an hour to do one side of the car.

Some things I was very careful about:

Don't leave the oven cleaner on the paint more than five minutes.

When wiping the panel down after removing the oven cleaner, make sure there's no residue.

Even if the pigment is gone, there may still be some residue from the paint. Apply additional oven cleaner to remove this if necessary, or use a product such as 3M Adhesive Remover to take it off.

I'm really pleased with the results of my pinstripe removal. While I'm not a big fan of the pinstripes, I wouldn't mind having one if it wasn't in such lousy shape as mine was.

Dan
 

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Well done. I have no pin stripes, but just spent a few hours buffing cars with them. I wore some of the stripe off
 

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Simple and cheap mod to create independent fully adjustable compression/rebound on your rear SLS struts.
If you have fitted up the thicker rear sway bar and then proceed with this mod to set the rear up how you like it along with say heavy duty bilsteins or B8's up front and after checking your ball joints and suspension rubbers, and check your steering components are good - then a decent wheel alignment, your on the right track to set your W126 up to handle really well.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1674868-sls-adjustable-shock-damping-reveal.html
 

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Simple and cheap mod to create independent fully adjustable compression/rebound on your rear SLS struts.
If you have fitted up the thicker rear sway bar and then proceed with this mod to set the rear up how you like it along with say heavy duty bilsteins or B8's up front and after checking your ball joints and suspension rubbers, and check your steering components are good - then a decent wheel alignment, your on the right track to set your W126 up to handle really well.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1674868-sls-adjustable-shock-damping-reveal.html

Kim,
Thanks. I forgot about this one. Just did the sway bars so this has to be next.

Mike
 
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