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· Registered
1989 190e Mercedes 2.6L
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving today and hit a very bad pothole. My engine oil light came on about 2 minutes after the hit. I realized my oil pan underneath cracked completely and oil started flushing out. I drove for another 5-7 minutes with the oil light on. (Im assuming at this point I have 0 oil left in the pan). I heard a strange ticking noise coming from my engine so I immediately parked and shut the engine off. I want to note I was only going about 20-30 mph the entire way after the hit and would also like to note I was driving a total of maybe 10-15 minutes since the start of the accident.
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior
 

· Registered
1989 W124 260E
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7,990 Posts
Well i have seen engines run for 3/4 of an hour with no oil in them . So i would try and patch the hole up ..it can be done .Then refill it with oil not expensive oil to try it just as long as its the right specs for the engine.Then start it up,, you will hear if it had been damage when you do so,,.If it sonds good pick up new sump to fit on it.
 

· W201, W212, W221, & W222 Moderator
'84 Euro 500SE, '85 Euro 2.3-16, '51 Euro 170S, '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '15 G63 AMG
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9,233 Posts
Worst case, swap in a replacement motor and tear that one down to assess the damage. If all is well, button it back up and keep it off to the side as a spare.

Judging from the marks, it looks like the pan cracked from the outside, meaning it wasn't caused by a rod letting go (you'd have also felt/heard this, and the motor wouldn't have allowed you to go as far as you did before completely seizing up). Pull the plugs to remove any compression and turn the motor over by hand and see how it feels.
 

· Premium Member
1990 190e 2.6
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449 Posts
had this happen to a friend he purchased a new pan but there was a knock coming from the motor. Good time to upgrade to a 3L engine. I have several 2.6 m103 motors if you are interested pm me.
 

· Registered
1989 190e Mercedes 2.6L
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All these answers im getting seems like a 50/50 to me. I tried sealing the crack but it was too slippery for the tape I got. I used flex seal and gorilla glue duct tape both are wet resistant and still no luck. My only option now is to purchase the new pan and do the oil changes on there. Will update everyone in about 1-2 weeks tops. Hopefully the engine is good. Thanks everyone.
 

· W201, W212, W221, & W222 Moderator
'84 Euro 500SE, '85 Euro 2.3-16, '51 Euro 170S, '97 Jeep Wrangler Sport, '15 G63 AMG
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9,233 Posts
Depending on the metal composition of the pan, a competent welder might actually be able to weld it up good as new. I've been able to successfully weld a lot of the "pot" metal the CIS airflow housing and other components are made of. I can't remember specifically if these are pure aluminum, steel, or some kind of pot metal. The key will be to drill at the ends of each crack to keep the crack from spreading, then weld in what's necessary to save on the cost of having it done. Otherwise, the best repair for it would be to cut out as perfect of a square/rectangle as needed, just outside of any cracks, and weld in a replacement section.

I've cut and welded aluminum oil pans for motor swap clearance issues countless times and never had an issue with the welds failing or there being any leaks. All this is moot, of course, if the motor is hurt beyond just the cracked pan.
 
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