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1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1971 280 114 Coupe (sold) 1988 300 SE 2005 jag XK8
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2,224 Posts
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Can someone confirm that a 300SE rear flex joint is a smaller diameter than a 560 SEL? I found an almost new pair of flex joints on a 126 so I stashed them away for my 300SE. Last week I decided to measure them. Lo and behold the 300SE is smaller than the 560!
 

· R.I.P. Always Remembered.
300GD 5 dr 1987, W126 420SE, W126 560SE
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1,683 Posts
Can someone confirm that a 300SE rear flex joint is a smaller diameter than a 560 SEL? I found an almost new pair of flex joints on a 126 so I stashed them away for my 300SE. Last week I decided to measure them. Lo and behold the 300SE is smaller than the 560!
I checked the EPC using a 300SE VIN and part numbers are;
Front A124 410 0615
Rear A202 410 1315

For the 560/420/500 there is just one part number
A126 410 0415

It didnt mention size but as they have different numbers I would have thought they would be.
 

· R.I.P. Always Remembered.
300GD 5 dr 1987, W126 420SE, W126 560SE
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1,683 Posts
Because I was able to confirm the part number, I just ordered a Meyle brand flex joint! Thanks again.
I checked again and didnt notice this morning that the 124 number had been replaced
I have corrected above and;

Front A124 410 0615
Rear A202 410 1315
 

· Premium Member
1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
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477 Posts
This was a nice happenstance post read; I learned today what that thing is that my mechanic showed me up on the rack and which part name I'd forgotten. My 300SE's flex joint eventually needs replacement, too. It often "clunks" when put in reverse. Thankfully it's not a complex repair.

Were my own flex joints that easy. Maybe I just need to do more squats...
 

· Registered
'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler, 1961 Albright Cabin Cruiser
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9,569 Posts
My 300SE's flex joint eventually needs replacement, too. Thankfully it's not a complex repair.

Were my own flex joints that easy. Maybe I just need to do more squats...
No, it's not complex, but like many other repairs (water pump on a small block Chevy comes to mind for instance) doing the actual fix is simple, getting to the part/assemblies is what takes so much time :eek removing the exhaust and then the heat shield. That's why so many say (and do) "while you're under there" do both discs and the center bearing AND carrier

Yes the rear disc on a 300SE is smaller than the front, I knew from reading here at BW that they needed looking at from the "seat of the pants vibration" I was getting at highway speed, had that front one finished coming apart it would have wrecked the underside of the car

*****DON'T BUY CHEAP PARTS***** 1st pic is my worn out front, the other pic was labeled "URO disc", you can see it looks new but just came apart from cheap rubber
 

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1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
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477 Posts
Good to know. As I'm discovering with my car, at 160,000 miles there is a seemingly never-ending list of things that should ultimately be replaced. I'm starting with front strut mounts and lower ball joints, steering shock, and shock absorbers. Many other things have been replaced over the last 4-5 years under my mother's tutelage—to the tune of probably $8,000 or so—but she was forever being totally taken to the cleaners by the dealer—which was sad because they don't have old-school mechanics anymore who even know these old cars. So it sat. And sat. Weeks to get anything done. I used to get so mad, but she wouldn't let me take it to an independent. She was old school herself: No one does it better than the dealer. Cha-Ching!

I only wish these sedans were really collectibles. Maybe some day they will be. Clearly one has to dump money in them as a labor of love and little else. To begin with the car's book value isn't more than double what I plan to put in the above repairs.

But for my part, I love driving it. It's deliciously old school and technology-free. It has a radio/CD player. That's it. No Bluetooth. No buttons on the steering wheel. No mesmerizing lights and gauges. No chimes. No talking to you. Not even an annoying seat belt buzzer. Just key-in-the-ignition and lights-on. It's heaven. You just...wait for it!....DRIVE the car.
 

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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250 "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car, 350SDL (Sold)
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6,272 Posts
Being frugal (Scottish), I tend to keep my vehicles of 8-10 years. Last new vehicle I had cost me about $40,000 over 9 years, including depreciation. If I can keep the 126 alive for less than that, I'll be way ahead of the game!

(I'm not even counting the reduced insurance premiums and the nearly zero property tax!)
 

· Premium Member
1989 300SE (Mitzi); 2003 CLK 430 cabrio (Clifford)
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477 Posts
John, I can relate to keeping cars for a long time. I'm 52 and have only owned five cars in my life, only three of which were bought new. (Correction: I now own six including the Benz.) I kept them for an average of eight years each and my '06 Civic si, now nine, is the most reliable, best-built car I've ever owned. Ironically, it was also the least expensive in inflation-adjusted dollars.

Some people like to get a new car every 2-3 years. To me that's just an insane waste of money, but for those people the novelty and cache of the new car is worth the price. I prefer to drive a car for hopefully many years after I've made the last payment.
 
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