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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
DIY Video - EGR Valve Tube Tar Removal Procedure (CEL code #9)

For all those wanting to attempt the EGR Valve tube roto rooter process, you may find this video helpful. I think the technique(s) I am using are a combination of "best practices" put in use and posted here by fellow members (cjscopp and White_Knuckles, Jim, my mechanic Ernie from Automeister in Issaquah, and others) plus some invention and creativity on my own part. You will notice in the demo how much slack is in the cable when I am demonstrating the roto rooter technique; that is just for demo purposes, make sure your cable is only about a foot outside of the tube at most as you don't want it to tangle around things in your engine at high speeds (it will bind, twist, and bend, you do not want that).

Make sure you actually go to the YouTube site to view the video rather than just watching it from this page or the quality will suffer and you will not be able to read the text in the video which is every bit as important as the video itself.

Enjoy.


This is what you need:

1. stubby 3/8" vertical swivel socket wrench
2. 10mm socket (for removing combustion side EGR tube bolts)
3. 10mm ratcheting box end wrench (very important, or removing combustion side EGR tube bolts)
4. 6" socket extension (with integrated wobbler would be helpful but not necessary)
5. 3/8" 90 degree air tool (and air compressor of course)
6. speedometer cable
7. Air nozzle (air gun)
8. vacuum hosing - 2 feet will do
9. Carb and throttle body cleaner
10. Shop light or luxeon star headstrap spot lamp (trust me, you need good light)
11. 19mm open ended wrench - the stubby variety (for removing EGR valve nuts)
12. Can of PB blaster or similar for getting stuck nuts/bolts free
13. Cordless drill (set to high rpm)
14. Needle nose pliers (for fraying the speedo cable at the end so it agitates and bores through the blockage)
15. A comfortable creeper to move around on when you ar underneath the car taking the right hand side bolt off of the combustion side EGR tube.
16. PATIENCE AND DETERMINATION! Listen folks, I thought this was going to be difficult and it really was quite easy in reality...but only if you have the tools and supplies listed above IMHO. Good luck!

Keywords:
CEL #9, check engine light #9, error code #9, EGR Vavle clogged, EGR valve plugged
 

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Nice, and off to the DIY section
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My pleasure; anything I can do to return the many favors afforded me using this forum and you good folks as a resource.
 

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Very well explained and offered with some good coaching and encouragement. A big part of successful MB DIY, it seems is approaching the job with respect for the complexity of MB engineering without being intimidated by same. The good news is that the castings, bits and fasteners involved in jobs like this are of high grade. Bad news is there a generally a lot of them.
 

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this is an excellent video. thanks!! BUT I have an important question. As i was removing the egr valve, how were u able to fit in the 19mm open ended wrench in that confined space? If possible, some pictures or a video can help. THANKSSS!! I NEED TO FIX THIS CEL for my smog test in feb!!
 

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Excellent work.

Something I need to do in the immediate future (needed to do last month actually, for the smog test, but I got a one month extentsion.)

Unfortunately, with rugby season upon us, I am not going to be able to do this for at least 6 weeks.
And the first week that I can, I have to be in Vegas for the Vegas 7s.


Oh well. At least I know that it can be done without removing the intake manifold, which is what I wanted to avoid.

Good work chief. Good work.
 

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Actually, if I may make a suggestion.

I always recommend not only making a complete tool list, but a itemised write up. One doesn't need to mention obvious stuff like open the hood and disconnect the battery in my opinion. If you don't know that you need to open the hood and disconnect the battery for quite a few underhood jobs, then you have no business working on your car. But that is another story.

So if you could please give us a basic line by line, operation by operation write up. I know I would appreciate it.

The reason why I am stating this is that I am not exactly sure how long it took you. I know you said it took you about 6 tries with the roto rootering, but was that over a period of 30 minutes or three days.

I really only want to know if you sprayed the interior of the tube with carb cleaner/ PB Blaster and then let it soak each time before you roto rootered it. And approximately how long the soaking time was.
Cheers
 

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So I started doing this.
I'm kinda stuck because the pipe is not completely level; it bends up from the exhaust side as it goes towards the intake side.
So, when I spray the carb cleaner into the pipe, it just drains out.
So, any help?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I started doing this.
I'm kinda stuck because the pipe is not completely level; it bends up from the exhaust side as it goes towards the intake side.
So, when I spray the carb cleaner into the pipe, it just drains out.
So, any help?
Neanderthal, you're not stuck, you're good. If you have carb cleaner dripping out of the other end you are in fantastic shape as you are not completely blocked up with goop. However, since you are in there, you are happy to clean it up inside that tube so as to knock down any buildup that is there. Just make sure you only spray a little bit of carb cleaner it at a time, just enough to coat the inside walls of the pipe (so it's not a stream coming out of the other end). Then, roto rooter that thing out (very important step). Do you have the frayed speedo cable and drill? This is an absolute must for this job. But like I said, you are very fortunate to not have a clogged pipe because that is the situation most of us are in when we go in there to do this job. And finally, as the last step, put some newspaper down underneath your engine, fill that egr pipe with a ton of car cleaner (yes, a lot of it will run out), give it about 10 seconds, and then hit that thing with some high PSI compressed air. Should shoot out black/brown/orange fluid on the other end. Do a few more times and you are good. Good luck. You might as well clean up the throttle body while you are in that section (with the intake tubes removed and such) and have the carb cleaner handy. I use a toothbrush taped to the end of pencil so you can get in there good (this way, you don't have to remove the whole TB to clean it).
 

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Thanks for the encouragement.

The carb cleaner is coming back out the same side it came in. The pipe is definitely blocked. But, like I said, the pipe goes up, so unless I blow in some air there is no way to hold the solvent in there. I guess that is what the air hose is for in your video. I didn't see it in action so I figured you were using it at the end to blow through the last of the gunk.

Anyway, I am going to just keep rooting it although it doesn't seem to be doing anything.

If only there had been clear weather yesterday, I could have been much further along.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the encouragement.

The carb cleaner is coming back out the same side it came in. The pipe is definitely blocked. But, like I said, the pipe goes up, so unless I blow in some air there is no way to hold the solvent in there. I guess that is what the air hose is for in your video. I didn't see it in action so I figured you were using it at the end to blow through the last of the gunk.

Anyway, I am going to just keep rooting it although it doesn't seem to be doing anything.

If only there had been clear weather yesterday, I could have been much further along.
Are you spraying at the exhaust end or the intake end of the EGR pipe? You should only be spraying at the exhaust end of it. I think this is probably the reason for your difficulty. Let that carb cleaner sit in there over night and filled it all the way up to the top (use the red straw attachment).
 

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Are you spraying at the exhaust end or the intake end of the EGR pipe? You should only be spraying at the exhaust end of it. I think this is probably the reason for your difficulty. Let that carb cleaner sit in there over night and filled it all the way up to the top (use the red straw attachment).
Yeah, I am blowing it in from the exhaust side. The little straw is only about 4 inches long though.

What I want to do is get the solvent up against the crud. Unfortunately that won't happen if it drains and dribbles out. I think I have a solution though; use a little of the vacuum pipe and connect it on the exhaust side, but elevate it and then fill it with solvent. By elevating it, it forces the solvent to the lowest point and if I keep enough of it in there, it might just dissolve and soften the crud so I can root it out completely in the morning.
 

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I had given up, gotten diner, watched several hours of NCIS and even gone and picked up my brother from work when I finally had the brain wave of adding to the length of the tube, elevating it and filling it with car cleaner.

So, 0130 hrs I decide to go root it one more time before I go to bed, and add the elevated section of piping. I forced that speedo cable in as far as it would go and started the drill. It seemed to back out, so I stopped, pulled it out and examined it (lots of black goo on the end) sprayed it, forced the cable in again, started the drill. It's late at night so I am trying to keep the noise down, which necessitates low speed drilling.
I'm bent over awkwardly trying to keep the speedo cable from catching on anything, trying to "feed it" as well, and suddenly it just feeds right until the drill is catching on the exhaust manifold. I tentatively peer at the intake side to see if I have managed to go all the way through; I'd cut the cable a little short and was concerned that I had been stuck at a corner and had finally gone around t but not all the way through.

Eureka!!!!!!!!!! I can see the cable coming out of the intake side, but only from one angle, and it could very easily be another cable going somewhere else or an optical illusion. I try drilling but I can't see anything, too much stuff in the way. But, when I pull the drill out I can see clearly I am all the way through.

Sprayed it again, sprayed the hard carbon deposit on the block and called it a night.

Tomorrow I take a few more pics (if I remember; allen bolt no oil filter housing, drill with cable in rooting action, etc) and button it up.

Thanks Soundquest for an excellent tutorial.

To your excellent tutorial I would only add that my 3/8s drive 10mm socket didn't work on the rearward EGR nut. Lousy access, just like the allen bolt on the oil filter housing. I had to buy a crawfoot set to access it. If I remember I will take a pic of all the tools used as well.
 

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Buttoned everything up, started it.

Initially, some rough running, but then it smoothed out and purred like it always did. Love to say it runs better but I noticed no discernable difference.

Cheers all who went before me and simplified this procedure. Saved myself a lot of coin doing it myself and got a whole bunch of new tools in the process.
 

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The procedure is simpler than you show in the video. Disconnect the pipe at the EGR, at the intake, and the bolt at the oil filter housing holding the pipe from rattling.

Use a screwdriver (small) clean out the junk at the combustion end of the tube and the intake itself. Feed a wire up the combustion side of the tube and turn it a bit. Then, blow compressed air through from the exhaust end.

I also flushed my pipe with my AC flush gun and it was clean. Total job about an hour and you don't have to remove the EGR valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The procedure is simpler than you show in the video. Disconnect the pipe at the EGR, at the intake, and the bolt at the oil filter housing holding the pipe from rattling.

Use a screwdriver (small) clean out the junk at the combustion end of the tube and the intake itself. Feed a wire up the combustion side of the tube and turn it a bit. Then, blow compressed air through from the exhaust end.

I also flushed my pipe with my AC flush gun and it was clean. Total job about an hour and you don't have to remove the EGR valve.
Pretty cool work around. I'm all for simplification -- would you mind posting some pictures detailing your procedure?
 

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It is all back together. No need for photos because they are already in the video.

Total cost to fix this was zero dollars. Not even an EGR gasket.
 
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