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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This thread is to be used for linking to preexisting DIY threads. Please keep discussions to the respective DIY threads and not in this sticky.

A Note from cmitch: PLEASE keep all discussions and questions out of this thread! If you need to make a comment about a particular DIY, comment in the thread itself, not here!
I cleaned out 31 posts that involved questions and discussions. I plan to edit this post later to include an index of DIY's with corresponding post and page number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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2014 ML350 Bluetec
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463 Posts

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2006 C230 Sedan
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75 Posts
DIY Cleaning/Replacing air filters

Attach is a PDF of a Do it Yourself (DIY) changing or cleaning of intake air filter (also A/C Cabin Filter) on a dual intake V6 Mercedes Benz. Very similar procedue on the V8 engines
 

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2006 ML500, 2002 G500, 1967 FJ40
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125 Posts
2006 Front Brake Change

The write up on the front brake replacement is spot on- only thing that should be noted is my 2006 ML500 had sensors on BOTH sides- Not sure what years this affects but if you order 1 you will come up short. Dont ask me how i know :)
 

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on the oil change, you do not need to use the vacuum hose. under the car in the very front is a plastic cover with some bolts and cotter pins. remove it and youll see the oil pan drain plug.
 

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2006 ML 500 Capri Blue & 2011 E 350 Iridium Silver
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146 Posts
The brake light repair is a very easy fix. A couple of points that I would add to the DIY:

1. You need two (2) of the repair kits.
2. Be sure to use 22 guage (red) insulation displacement connectors. You will need two (2) of these, as well. Apparently, they are color coded to designate the guage of the wire.
3. Use black electrical tape to wrap the connectors.
4. A 10 mm wrench is helpful/needed to loosen the ground wire bolts.

This really is an easy fix and I really appreciate the ML community taking the time to put this together!
 

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2006 ML350
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65 Posts
Running Boards Install as per MB

here is what MB uses as their guide for installation, plus the parts list as well

hope this helps

the pics are a bit dark, as it is a scan of a fax sent to me, but this in combination of the one DIY posted already it should assist further in getting these things installed.
 

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83 300CD, 07 ML320 CDI, 04 WRX, 86 300D (totalled by my neighbor), 85 300D (sold)
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ML 320 CDI - Tips you don't find in WIS / DVD

Engine Change oil tips (320CDI - OM642) -

Tip #1
It is easiest/safest to vacuum old oil out of the engine (less than 30 minutes). So invest in a Mityvac 7201 - 90$ shipped (so you can also use that for your DIY tranny flush service)...OR...In my case - I just bought a $7 electric drill attachment shown here. Simply attach it to the dipstick tube with some hose clamps - and connect this to your electric drill. You can buy this at Sears/Napa/Autozone.

Tip #2
Its cheaper for me to buy Mobil 1 ESP oil at my MB dealership. $7/qt. I can also use coupons they send me in the mail (15% off). Other options are $6.50/qt for Penzoil at Walmart. Oil Filters are cheaper online (autohausaz)

ATF Transmission Flush Tips (722.9)

Tip #1
If you are uncomfortable doing a brake fluid flush-forget this. I suggest leaving this to the professionals and cough up $400-$500. It is a small price to pay and you get peace of mind.

Tip #2
Buy. Infrared Thermometer ($26+). NAG2 adapter OR MityVac MV7216 $110 (for filling). Use this to measure tranny temps and filling ATF later.

Tip #3
MityVac 7200 oil evacuator ($87 shipped-Ebay) - use this to fill your tranny.
OR
In my case - i bought an air compressor instead. Plus, Sears has a 2.5 pressurized paint container with a pressure guage ($150). You can use that also. In my case - i just DIY and used my wife's old pressure cooker to fill up with clean ATF ( I just bought $5 worth of fittings )

Tip #4
Our torque converters will not get drained if you follow the WIS/MB Service manuals. To get more ATF out of your tranny - there is a black cover at the bottom of your tranny that gives you access to the t/c for draining the additional 4+ quarts of ATF. There is a drain plug in the t/c - but you might not see it right away. You have to rotate the t/c by rotating the engine clockwise - do this by installing a socket in front of the engine. I don't know why the official MB Service guides do NOT recommend doing this. Wear eye protection & gloves - it will get messy.

Tip #5
I have not found any way to drain your ATF without removing the oil pan. So have a new replacement pan gasket ready before you start ($16). MB also recommends replacing the 6 aluminum bolts ($10) that hold the pan.

Tip #6
Draining the pan requires a drift tool. My DIY tool ? I used one of my small long socket (1/4) so that it can push that white insert out of the way and drain the entire pan. Wear eye protection & gloves because it will get messy.

Tip #7
Instead of following WIS-MB service guide in filling up our tranny with 6 liters and adding another 2 liters. I suggest you measure exactly how much you took out/drainied then add +1 liter. If you spilled ATF on the floor while draining - ignore this tip and follow MB-WIS.

Fuel Filter Replacement tips (320 CDI)

Tip #1
Engine Fuel Filter replacement is not easy compared to other engines. So I suggest doing/timing this along with the air filter replacment or service.

Tip #2
Optional. Buy special pliers to remove those clic-r hose clamps. It costs $22 shipped on ebay. Search for clic-r. It makes removal easier (but its not impossible to remove those clamps with regular vice grips). But to install the hose clamps - any vice grip will do.

Tip #4
To relieve pressure in the fuel system. Install a small tube and unscrew that black water separator thingy in the middle of the fuel filter (pictured). Fuel might/might not come out of it.

Tip #5
To check for leaks after you replace the fuel filter - put some dry tissues underneath the hose clamps during your first dry runs. If they still leak - replace with regular screw type hose clamps.

Tip #6
After installing the new fuel filter in its location. I presoaked my filter by installing the left hose (small) where it should and the right hose (big) to my Mityvac hand held vacuum pump. I vacuumed the system until clean fuel was coming out of the right (big). Then I installed it to the proper hose connection.

Some will argue this is not necessary. I just did this extra step so i would lessen the chance of not starting/firing up on my first attempt. I had a painful experience with my 87 W124 300D.

Air Filter Replacement tips (320 CDI)

Tip #1
Do this when the engine is cold. Is much more comfortable doing it this way.

Tip #2
Engine Air Filter replacement (2 of them) is not that easy. It is very tight on both sides to get to the 4x2 torx screws the hold the air filter cover on each side ! So plan to remove the entire filter housing instead and the Y air intake along with it. There are only 2 reverse torx screws (E10) holding each filter housing. The bottoms are just held by rubber plugs.

Tip #3
Get a piece of hard cardboard to protect the firewall insulation. I made ugly holes in it trying to get the driver side air filter housing out. Its hard to remove.

Tip #4
Driver side. I had to loosen the 2 torx holding the power steering reservoir to make some additional room. This may not be required - but i did.

Tip #5
On the passenger side. Also loosen that 1 torx holding those cables just behind the dipstick tube (pictured). This is also for making extra room.
 

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2007 ML 320 CDI
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I just completed the fuel filter and air filter. Some additional tips.

Not every instruction has you remove the firewall panels (one on each side). Do it.

After you loosen the hose clamps to the Y it's just the two reverse torx bolts (each side) and the air box just pulls up and out. Don't forget the electrical connectors.

Re-installing the rear air cleaner bolt on both sides is a pain. Pay careful attention to how it works. It took a board between the wheel well and air box to pry it into position to engage on both sides.
 

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2008 ML350 - Edition 10
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3 Posts
Brake Light Repair Procedure (continued)...

Thanks for the helpful posts from Paul S8 ML350 (post 15)& KY ML500 (post 17) on this matter. =
I recently performed the repair on my 2008 ML350 Edition 10. and the pictures from Paul S8 ML350 were fantastic.
However, this repair can easily be performed with out the use of the 22 gauge (red) insulation displacement connectors.
Paul, you were so close in accomplishing this when you tried using the paper clips to push out the wire pin from the harness.
Most of the Mercedes harness connectors are made with a flap which secures the pins in place (see image attached).
The flap should first be lifted open before trying to push the pin out through the harness.
If the flap breaks off, no worries, just snap it back on when finished and insert the harness into the female plug,\
this is a snug fit and will prevent the flap from coming off.
I used a flat head jewelers screw driver to loosen the pin in the harness socket then used a larger flat head to push it out of the harness.

Once the Violet/Black pin (or Pink pin depending on side) is free, you will insert it into the new repair kit harness.
The repair kit has a plug assembly, with a brown and red wire on one side and green wire on the other side.
Separate the plug, and open the flap on the harness with the green wire on it in slot 1.
Once the flap on this harness is open you can slide the Violet/Black (positive) wired into Slot 2 of the new harness next to the green wire.
Pay attention to make sure the pin is aligned correctly before inserting it.

Now you can secure the harness by closing the flap, and it is ready to be inserted into the plug connecting it to the new brake light socket.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 

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