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Motor mount Issues & Picture

Well at 88,000 thousand Miles , I decided too change out the motor mounts , ( Even though they passed the throttle stretch test ) I didn't do a whole DIY thing. Thought that somebody had already done one with Pictures & tool list ? No so. My fault for not checking the DIY post in the header section. Mine took a little more time because of the headers and the pesky heat shields & guard brackets on the Drivers side. I put the ML up on Jack stands in my Home garage , Removed the front wheels and the plastic wheel house liners. 20 Minutes . Got out the cherry picker . Placed it over the motor .

On the driverside , I removed the heat shields & bracket. ( What a Pain in the A$$ ) That bracket also holds a P/S hi pressure hose , which will side out with alittle effort. I undid the lower mount nuts (16 mm hex ) on both sides , Then the upper mount section nuts on both sides.. Lifted the motor about 3". The passenger side was a breeze. Just had to work around the headers. I removed the motor block mount bracket. 4- # 10 mm screws with a E-12 torques Heads. Slide that bracket upward & outward. Removed the old mount, Install the new one & reversed the procedure. The Drivers side was alittle more involved. Again , I removed the engine block mount bracket . It had 6 - #10 torques screws , You also need to remove the air con compressor rear attachment bolt . And use a universal joint # E-12 torques socket for the most forward bracket screw. The Bracket was slide upward The mount came out with ease. Reverse procedure , Then lower the motor back down , Tighten upper nuts 18 mm Hex , then lower nuts 16mm Hex. No Hammers or pry bars needed . The whole job took about 4 hours. with hand tools , No Air tools used. So The mounts may seem good & pass the stretch test . But what you can not see , is they have compress & gotten soft . The new mounts retail for $41.00 I bought mine for $32.80 and they have improvements too!! Cheers _PTEnginnering
 

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2005 ML Brake Pad Change

I have just changed the worn brakepads on my 2005 ML 270cdi.

I used the following video as a guide and was surprised that I could change the pads without removing the calipers :thumbsup:

 

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Radio-NO SOUND

For those members who experience no sound coming from any of the speakers, but the rest of the functions are operational, perform the following:

1. key out of ignition.

2. for 1998-2001 ML's, remove fuse #21 in the underhood fuse/relay box.

for 2002-2005 ML's, remove fuses #21 & #40.

3. wait ten seconds and reinsert.

4. then follow the instructions to enter the Radio Code.
 

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Parasitic Draw/Battery Draw Test

1. check all fuses in underhood fuse/relay and right side kick panel fuse/relay box (if applicable), with test light or DVOM.

2. battery must be fully charged.

3. with the key out of the ignition:

a. if 98-99 ML, close all doors and tailgate (not locked) and open hood.

b. if 2000 and up, open right front door and hood and close all other doors (not locked) and tailgate. Throw door latch at right front door to simulate it being closed. Wait to see that the over head lights extinguish. You must be absolutely sure that the door latch is fully closed or else the test will be useless.

c. if your truck has a hood alarm switch, the plunger must be weighted down to simulate the hood being closed.

4. lock vehicle using remote. If remote does not lock doors, then proceed without.

5. wait approx. 1/2 hr. for the modules to power down and go into sleep mode. After this point, do not attempt to open any door or turn the ignition or remove any fuse.

6. follow the directions in the video, starts at 3:20, and using a DVOM set to millivolt scale, test every fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box and then for those who have a 2000 + ML, also test all fuses in the right side kick panel fuse/relay box.


7. when you discover the fuse number that is drawing current, you must post back and then you will be supplied with what components use that fuse.

8. for those that had to throw the door latch, simply lift the outside door handle to release the lock before closing the door.
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Parasitic Draw/Battery Draw Testing-door-lock-throw.jpg
 

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Rear wheel vibration ML 430...Please help!

Hello,
NEED HELP...New brakes and rotors installed on the rear, seeded properly. Drove about 45 miles and came to a stop, accelerated and heavy vibration/rattling from the rear started. Happens when in gear and neutral. Could not go over 5MPH

Got it towed, took wheels off and checked for loose bolts, screws, etc...nothing!:mad:

Possible CV or bearings??? Need advice here.

Thank You!
 

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Rack and pinion

Can someone post the part number of the rubber seals (#137)? or where to order them? thanks

This DIY is for the 4 rubber O ring seals (#137), located on the attached pdf.

Steps:
1. use a jack to lift truck. secure truck with jack stands on each side of the truck.
2. use a 3/8" socket wrench and a 15mm socket to remove the star cap (#135).
3. use an oil pan to catch any dripping fluid.
4. use needle nose pliers to remove the black rubber O ring seals from the hub.
5. replace the 4 rubber seals (#137).
6. replace the cap (#135).
7. refill your power stearing ress with MB power stearing fluid.
8. Crack open a beer and relax, you just saved $600 from the dealer.

Total cost of this DIY ($15.00).
 

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DIY windshield washer nozzle

This is a 10 minute very simple job. The reason I am posting here is that WIS asks for removal of the wiper arms and then cowl grill which is completely unnecessary!

1) Lift the hood full upright position.
2) Detach the rubber seal and metal clips from the firewall
3) While lifting the grill in one hand, press the clips, slide the nozzle forward and up.
4) Disconnect the hoses and install the new one.

Part numbers:
163 860 1047 for the left and the middle
163 860 0947 for the right
 

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I have just changed the worn brakepads on my 2005 ML 270cdi.

I used the following video as a guide and was surprised that I could change the pads without removing the calipers
This is Exactly how to change the pads on my 1987 560SL! Glad to see MB stuck with a great braking system.
 

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I am needing to replace my drivers door window regulator on a 1999 ml320. How do I get around or disconnect the airbag?
Not an expert but I did managed to replace the lock module due to the machine gun lock and required to remove the door panel.

After you remove all necessary screws (if my memory serves me right there should be just two philips under the handle after you pry open the cover) and the bottom and around the lower half of the door panel is held by clips.

To remove the door panel you have to pry open around the bottom first and once all clips are lose just lift the panel in an upward motion and it should be off then you should able to see the cable / linkage for the lock as well as the plug for the side airbag.

All I did was disconnect the cable and unplug the connector and after I finish replace the lock the reverse the order.

You will also need two rivets from the dealer to fasten the window regulator tracks or use two 8mm nuts and bolts like I did.

I did the front passenger side and although I seriously think the rear should be pretty much the same but your mileage may vary.
 

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43sqd, thank you for the great writeup.

Where is the best place to get those specialty tools...the radio 'keys'....and the plastic tools for the bodywork panels ??

thanks!
Ricky
 

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Help needed Urgently

To properly replace the Blend Door Actuator/Motor and /or its levers, the following procedure should be followed.

This procedure eliminates the breaking of the tabs on the passenger side air bag deployment door and also eliminates the removal of the air bag. Only the top half of the instrument panel needs to be removed.

Also before starting, make sure that you have your radio code.

1. Remove left and right "A" pillar trim panels.
2. Remove upper and lower covers on steering column (3 screws).
3. Remove Instrument Cluster.
4. Remove center section of instrument panel (with plastic pry tools).
5. Remove radio (with keys).
6. Remove glove box
7. Remove defroster vent strip (with plastic pry tools).
8. Remove items, 6-7-9 if so equipped (with plastic pry tools)
9. Remove side panels #128

Start by removing those screws indicated in red.

Pull the ends and the top of the lower portion of the instrument panel slightly away to reveal the two green screws

Then remove the two screws indicated in green.

Those screws indicated in purple might or might not be there, depending on model year.

Then gently pull away the top portion of the instrument panel, all the time making sure that every screw has been removed.

After installing the new Blend Door Motor and before replacing the Instrument Panel, reattach the A/C-Heater Controller, start the truck and check the workings of the Blend Door in every temperature stage.

On re-installation, it might be easier to fit the upper dash if the end and middle A/C vent were removed. If so, remove them by unlocking them from the back side.

Hopefully I have accounted for everything and good luck.
SOLVED
This is a great post and I have followed it all but stuck with a problem, I cannot locate the screws/bolts located at the left and right hand ends marked as red with numbers 5 and 46 next to them can anyone offer urgent help as I have a big pile of parts and it would nice to use the car soon!!
 

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Dead Battery-Locked Out-Door Locks Do Not Turn

For those who have a dead battery and cannot gain access to vehicle and manual door lock(s) do not work, perform the following:

1. remove the right front wheel.

2. remove the wheel well liner.

3. buy or borrow a charged battery.

4. buy or borrow a set of jumper cables.

5. attach positive jumper cable to only the large nut on starter, then attach the other end of the cable to the positive post of the donor battery.

6. attach negative jumper cable to negative post on donor battery, then attach the other end of the jumper cable to any clean engine or chassis metal. You will know that you have a good ground when you see small sparks when making connection at the engine or chassis.

7. then use the remote to unlock the vehicle.

8. then immediately remove the negative jumper cable from the battery and chassis ground, then remove the positive cable from the battery and then the starter.

Please print this out so there is no confusion.


Do not ask questions about this procedure on this DIY thread, as these threads are not monitored. If there is a question about this procedure, a NEW TOPIC thread must be opened.
 

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Please post only DIY items or links to them.

If DIY info is needed and was not found using the search feature please post the request in the regular threads, not the stickies.
Thank You :)
 
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