Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

61 - 80 of 119 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
REPLACING DASH VENT DOOR SEALS ON MY 98 ML320

If black stuff is blowing out of your dash and your AC dash vents won't shut off, the seals have rotted away. A couple years ago i tried to make my own but was only partially successful. Now, a vendor on Ebay will set you a set of 5 seals for $12.50, deliverd.

They appear to be high quality foam and fit well with no adhesive required.

NOTE: YOU ARE DEALING WITH OLD PLASTIC THAT HAS BECOME BRITTLE--APPLY FORCE JUDICIOUSLY!

The pictures show the flexible wedges that must be retracted to remove the nozzles. I used a WIDE plastic blade, normally used in door panel removals. Even the single nozzles have two wedges on the top, two on the bottom. shove the wedge between the dash and the nozzle on the bottom first. When the wedges release, the nozzle will tilt up slightly and you can usually pry the nozzle out of the dash without releasing the top wedges. A little prying on top helps. USING PLASTIC MINIMIZES THE CHANCE OF DAMAGING THE DASH!

With the single outlet in hand, use a flat blade screwdriver to lift the linkage arm out of the the pivot point. then use the screwdriver in a twisting motion to lift one pivot point of the damper out of it's socket, then you can tilt the damper over and push it out of the housing. Thoroughly clean the slots on all four sides of the damper as the new seal must fully register in the slots. look at the picture to see how the seal fits into the slots so that the piece of foam bridges the damper. DO NOT CUT THIS PIECE OFF!

The tripple nozzle comes out the same way except you need to push your wedge in at two different spots on the bottom. With the nozzles in hand you will see 4 little clips that hold the back of the housing on. CAREFULLY lift these clips to remove the back. Now take a Picture of how things are nested in the housing. I do one damper at a time and then set it back in place.

The nozzles will easily snap back in place but keep them level so they don't go in crooked.

The vendor's id is zuzulacek or search for W163 dash vent seals (no affiliation).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
question detane onrack & pinon seals

This DIY is for the 4 rubber O ring seals (#137), located on the attached pdf.

Steps:
1. use a jack to lift truck. secure truck with jack stands on each side of the truck.
2. use a 3/8" socket wrench and a 15mm socket to remove the star cap (#135).
3. use an oil pan to catch any dripping fluid.
4. use needle nose pliers to remove the black rubber O ring seals from the hub.
5. replace the 4 rubber seals (#137).
6. replace the cap (#135).
7. refill your power stearing ress with MB power stearing fluid.
8. Crack open a beer and relax, you just saved $600 from the dealer.

Total cost of this DIY ($15.00).

@ detane:
are the 4 seals all in the top hub...do you only remove the top star cap..or is both top & bottom and 2 seals each. can you clarify. thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
Things to know when replacing a drivers door (early model to late model)

This is my experience when using a 2003 door on my 99 ML430:

If you are using a new model door for the 99 you'll will need the wiring harness, air bag, mirror and speaker out of your old door. The airbag, speaker and mirror wiring were different as was the plug end going to the truck. You'll need to drill out the airbag from the original and rivet it into your new door as the airbags are completely different. Also on the 2003 door the door seal was on the door while on the 99 it's on the truck. I just removed the seal from the door and it seals nicely. This info will save someone a lot of time if they have to do this job. Also it helps to have an extra person holding the door when removing and installing the door to the truck. This isn't a toyota!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,197 Posts
FSS Reset Instructions.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/3351435-post17.html


Interesting side note. I failed to reset the FSS at 0 eventhough I changed the oil and filter. I got to -200 miles and my instrument panel "reset" when I turned on my lights. Since I reset the FSS...it stopped doing it. Not sure if connected - but adding this anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
For MY 2002-2005 only. (1998-2001 models have a different AC unit.)

The document shows how to replace the control arm/lever that actuator moves in order to open or close the flap, also test the motor.

First, inspect the control arm after removing the footwell top cover. If it does not move with the AC Rear button on or off, use these instructions to fix it.

Other things that may be malfunctioning are; rear air blower located at the back of center console, actuator that directs the flow in the rear cabin, rear control panel or front AC control panel (AAC), etc.
I can't believe it. Over $50 for this lever? I will just epoxy the damned thing together and see how it goes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
432 Posts
R & I Driveshaft ctr bearing support

LOTS OF PICTURESThe ML-500 now has 76,000 miles . And has developed a light dry bearing noise that increases with the rotation speed of the driveshaft. So I narrowed it down to the D/S ctr support bearing. So, I purchased a new OEM MB 163 410 00 10 kit from Parts.com , on the recommendation of Noodles . So I did this R & R in My home garage ,ML on the Jack stands as high as it would go. If I was to rate this DIY , #1 being very easy & #10 very difficult . I rate it as a #4 . This was done with hand tools & a outboard flywheel / Bearing puller kit.
The total working time was 4 hours , 1st 1/2 hour was getting the ML on the stands . Marking the bolts & shaft location and remove the rear D/S Tools used were, a 3/8" drive, 16mm 6pt shallow socket. at the rear diff. Next was the Cross U-joint bolts and straps, 1/4" drive 4" extension 8 mm 6 point shallow socket. I used a Strap wrench too hold the D/S from turning while loosening the bolts. I spent the next Hour Removing the 2 - 10mm X 1.5 - 16 mm hex head bolts , they have a thread cutting lead in for self tapping into the cross bracket & lots of Blue Loctite. No Heat needed , just some spray lub to the exposed bolt threads from the bottom access holes , A long handle flex head 3/8" ratchet really Helps , again I used a 16mm 6 point shallow socket . I then turned the assy 90* on its side and slid it rearward the diff , then down and out . Head to the shop part of the Home garage More to come Here is the part #2 http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1705126-r-i-driveshaft-ctr-bearing-support.html and there is a U-tube of the noisy old bearing
Cheers _PTEngineering
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,092 Posts
PTE nice writeup. I would think the biggest mistake anyone could make is not marking all the mating positions like you did.
Please post a link to this in the 'DIY thread collection' Sticky posts above so it can be found again when needed.
Thanks
Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
432 Posts
R & I Driveshaft ctr bearing support #2

I then undid the 6 - 8mm X 1.25 cap head screws that held the smaller D/S & C/V joint to the Support Bearing Assy. #6 Pictures for this . I used the 3/8" flex head long ratchet , 6mm allen 3/8" drive Snap on p/n FAM6E, with a shorten Hex, You can go to SEARS and get a Craftsman set too. Use a strap wrench here to. I cleaned the threads in the cross bracket with a tap & cleaned the bolts with a die , Lots of dried up blue loctite . Next , I put the yoke in the 6" shop Vice and used a 15/16" 6 point socket & a 1/2 drive breaker bar to loosen the lock nut & thick pressure washer , I marked the spline's location as per the instruction Sheet Noodle's sent. Used a common puller kit to pull the yoke from the splines. ( The yoke pulled off nicely , No major pressure on the pressing screw ) I then put the nut back on finger tight and use a small brass mallet to tap the shaft & spline assy out of the bearing assy. I did maybe 4 light hits. It came right out. Not a Press fit LOL. I wire brushed the rusty surfaces. Installed the shaft & spline assy back into the new support bearing assy. Put the yoke at the proper marked splines ( The Paint marker was a little runny ) Install the new washer & nut supplied in the kit , Put the yoke back into the Vise , Torqued the nut to 110.5 ft Lbs / 150 Nms. Slid the assemble part in down by the Rear diff Turned it on the side . Moved it along the side of the gas tank . turned it upright, set it to the Cross Bracket. applied a Drop of Blue Loctite to the threads of the bolts Reverse procedure of removal . Here is a U-tube video of the noisey bearing , https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dyQFFm0gQM
Peace & Quiet again
Cheers _PTEngineering
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
432 Posts
Noisy Ctr support Bearing

I was driving down the street that has cement walls , with my windows open and could here a dry bearing noisy , but it wasn't at wheel speed , at low speeds it seem about 3 times faster than the wheel ?? so I climb under the ML , the D/S felt looser that I thought was normal , So it was kinda shot in the Dark. so to speak Cheers _PTEngineering
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,123 Posts
Windscreen demister problem - replace vent flap actuator motor

Heater pushed hot air to face vents, floor vents or both, but stopped pushing hot air to windscreen when demister button pressed.

This DIY - how to remove, repair (or replace) and reinstall the demister vent flap actuator motor. See here.
 
61 - 80 of 119 Posts
About this Discussion
118 Replies
89 Participants
marrandy
Mercedes-Benz Forum
BenzWorld.org forum is one of the largest Mercedes-Benz owner websites offering the most comprehensive collection of Mercedes-Benz information anywhere in the world. The site includes MB Forums, News, Galleries, Publications, Classifieds, Events and much more!
Full Forum Listing
Top