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EGR Valve Replacement Instructions

Link containing general instructions on how to replace your EGR valve.

Changed my EGR Valve Today
 

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DIY Rack and Pinion seal replacement

This DIY is for the 4 rubber O ring seals (#137), located on the attached pdf.

Steps:
1. use a jack to lift truck. secure truck with jack stands on each side of the truck.
2. use a 3/8" socket wrench and a 15mm socket to remove the star cap (#135).
3. use an oil pan to catch any dripping fluid.
4. use needle nose pliers to remove the black rubber O ring seals from the hub.
5. replace the 4 rubber seals (#137).
6. replace the cap (#135).
7. refill your power stearing ress with MB power stearing fluid.
8. Crack open a beer and relax, you just saved $600 from the dealer.

Total cost of this DIY ($15.00).
 

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I am appending below Rob's DIY for Brake and Rotor Replacement.. Nice job Rob..!!

AC


'98 Brake and Rotor Replacement DIY

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Hey Everyone,

First off I wanted to thank everyone on here for such valuable information. After sorting through all the pictures taken during the install, I made a simple webpage going through the process step by step to help change the pads and rotors. I don't claim it's perfect, but atleast it can offer more insight to someone who is looking for pictures or more info on how to replace their rotors and pads.

It's been about 3-4 weeks now, and everything worked out great. If there are any suggestions or comments, feel free to let me know as well.

Thanks again,


Brake and Rotor Replacement

-Rob
Tampa, FL
 

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This is a DIY I found from ecartoys detailing the HID install.
 

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DIY Coolant Flush 2001 ML320

So after searching everywhere for a DIY and finding nothing I decided to write my own, so here we go.

Things you will need:

2x 1 Gallon MB Coolant Containers PN Q1 03 0002 (Local Dealer $40)
3x 1 Gallon Distilled Water (Walmart $2)
1x Antifreeze Funnel (Autozone $3)
2x Auto Ramps (Optional, Makes Job Easier Autozone $35)
1x 19mm Socket and Wrench (Or Needle Nose Pliers and Strong Fingers)
1x 5 Gallon Bucket Clear W/ Quart Marks (Optional, You Need a Large Container That Can Hold At Least 5 Gallons.

Time to complete: 30-45 Minutes

First we need to drain the existing coolant from the radiator, in order to do this we must loosen the black radiator drain plug. This plug is black and has a fin to turn it by, it is located on the bottom/front passenger side of the radiator as shown in the below pictures. It can be seen through the bumpers bolt opening with a flashlight and very hard to get to.




In the second picture it is the square looking thing to the right, turn to the left a couple times and coolant will start to pour out of the hole shown below.



Make sure you have a container under the drain hole and turn the plug on the radiator.



It was pretty tight so I worked a 19mm Socket up in and onto the drain plug fin.



Wrench up under bumper.



It fit great and allowed be to tighten and loosen as needed. You will want to open the filler cap on the expansion tank to allow for the coolant to flow as fast as possible.



You will want to drain all of the coolant out and it will drain 2 gallons 8 quarts total.



Once all of the coolant has drained pour one of the distilled water containers you bought into the expansion tank and let it drain through. It should be clean at this point and no longer yellow. Once this is done tighten back down the radiator drain plug. Now we will fill the system with new coolant, MB recommends that you mix coolant in a 50/50 mixture. In order to do this pour half of one of your MB coolant containers into your now empty water container and then fill the now half empty container with distilled water.
Shake the MB coolant container well to mix the contents equally.
Put the funnel in the expansion tank and pour the contents slowly into the funnel.



It will bubble and take the first gallon, you then must do the last couple steps and pour another gallon into the expansion tank.
Squeezing the top radiator hose will allow for the coolant to settle and get rid of all the air to take all two gallons.



At this point you will cap the expansion tank and turn on the car. You will want to turn on the heater full blast, turn off the air/con and let the car warm up. Once the car is warm rev the engine to allow for the heater coolant to flow properly.
After about 10 minutes you will want to do the flush we just did again to remove any of the coolant that was in the engine block and heater pipes. This may seem overkill but it is worth it in the end. Hope this helps some people with a coolant flush.
 

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Alternator Change/Upgrade

I can confirm that an ML430 Alternator Will fit on a 98 ML320
Old Alternator 115 amps
New Alternator 150 amps (woot)


DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!

this time its for real i usually dont bother on other projects but you are about to unscrew the POS pole of your battery from your alternator and inherently your ratchet will touch the gasket causing massive spark inferno possibly melting a whole in it!


1.) remove air filter housing (black box)
2.) remove fan shroud and fan
3.) remove serpentine belt
4.) unscrew the two big bolts holding the alternator in place
5.) give it a little knock downwards (might need a hammer after 10 years this thing wasnt going to go easy!
6.) now that its easy to turn the alternator take of the two (2) cables in the back
7.) put new alternator in place (dont screw it in yet) and reconnect cables
8.) put bolts back in and reassemble in reverse.

NOTES:
fan shroud can be tricky, be patient as the radiator is easily damaged by the corners of the shroud.
doing this on a "cool" car is much easier...!

i know this isn't very detailed but don't hesitate to ask if u need more info!




the hiding bolt

these two need to come out!

disconnect cables:
Imageshack - dscn3039q
two attachments points

pats that come off (nuts from alternator cable attachment points not included)


150 amps...


blurry MEH!

BOOM BOOM POW!
 

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Bi-Xenon Flash to Pass / High Beam Euro-Mod

The Bi-Xenon lights in the ML’s use a Halogen bulb for the Flash to Pass function. These are the lights mounted inboard of the Bi-Xenon lights. The reason for Halogen bulbs is that you cannot rapidly turn on and off Xenon bulbs and attempting to do so will rapidly shorten the life of the bulbs. The Bi-Xenon lights use a mechanical shutter to provide low beam and high beam functions (there are not two bulbs). This mechanical shutter can operate very fast and therefore can be used for the Flash to Pass function when the Xenon lights (Headlights) are on. You can actually hear the shutter moving up and down when you activate the high beam or flash to pass functions. Therefore when the Xenon lights are on the Halogen lights are not needed and are de-activated so that both the Xenon and Halogen High Beam bulbs do not turn on at the same time. When you turn on the Xenon lights you are also turning on a relay which opens the circuit to the Halogen bulb in each fixture. Simply de-activating this relay will allow the Halogen bulb to be on whenever any High Beam function is selected, both Flash to Pass and regular High Beams.

The standard function is as follows;

Lights Off:
Xenon Bulbs -- Off
Flash to Pass -- Halogen Bulbs Flash On & Off

Lights On:
Low Beam -- Xenon Bulbs On
High Beam -- Xenon Bulbs On and High Beam Shutter in up position
.............. -- Halogen Bulbs Off
Flash to Pass -- Xenon Bulbs On and Shutter moves up and down.
.................. -- Halogen Bulbs stay Off

Many people, myself included, wanted to have the Halogen High Beam bulbs operate in the Flash to Pass AND High Beam mode all the time. This modification to the light fixtures has been dubbed the “Euro Mod”. I don’t know why but maybe this is the way they operate in Europe. One other distinguished member, Drew, came up with a mod consisting of cutting two leads and connecting them together. This mod required cutting leads and is not reversible. Upon further investigating the light circuits I discovered that all you needed to do is de-activate the High Beam de-activation relay. I used the procedure outlined below.

1) Remove each light assembly
Carefully remove the trim across the bottom of the light fixture and note how it hinges on the outer position.
Remove two nuts at the bottom of the fixture and one bolt at the top.
Remove all Plugs. 
2) Open the access cover covering the Xenon Bulb.
3) Locate the relay inside the light fixture and just below the Xenon Bulb.
4) If you can, remove the Brown lead from the relay. (uses quick connect terminal)
If you can’t get to the Brown lead you will have to remove the Xenon Bulb and this can get tricky. Remove the two wire plug on the Xenon igniter (black plastic box behind bulb with a lot stuff printed on it). Un clip wire retaining bale and rotate and remove bulb. NOTE orientation and re-install in same exact position (rotation). Much caution and observation is needed here. It’s a real PITA. The relay is just snapped into plastic clips so you can lift the relay to a point that you can access and remove the Brown lead. I managed to disconnect the Brown lead on one fixture without removing the bulb but had to remove the bulb on the other fixture. The bulb orientation was different in each fixture so I couldn’t use one fixture as an example for the other fixture. Note: the two pin plug cannot be inserted into the igniter until the bulb is fully installed in its fixture.
5) An alternate procedure will be to remove the Yellow lead from the relay. The Brown lead is Ground and the Yellow lead is connected to the Xenon headlight power circuit so it is best to leave the Yellow lead on the relay if you can. DO NOT remove the two White wires on the relay, this is the Halogen Bulb’s power circuit.
6) Now insulate the Brown Ground or Yellow Power lead, which ever one you removed from the relay, with either a piece of heat shrink tubing or electrical tape and just drop the disconnected lead back into the light fixture.
7) Replace cover and re-install on ML.

The new functions will be as follows;

Lights Off:
Xenon Bulbs -- Off
Flash to Pass -- Halogen Bulbs Flash On & Off

Lights On:
Low Beam -- Xenon Bulbs On
............. -- Halogen Bulbs Off
High Beam -- Xenon Bulbs On and HB Shutter in up position
.............. -- Halogen Bulbs On
Flash to Pass -- Xenon Bulbs On and Shutter moves up and down.
.................. -- Halogen Bulbs Flash On & Off along with the Xenon Shutter.

This mod is totally reversible by just replacing the lead back onto the relay. The entire procedure should take no longer than a few minutes. Removing the fixture and replacing on the ML will take the longest time. If it sounds complicated, it’s not. Just be careful with that Xenon Bulb if you have to remove it.

Disclaimer: In some states this modification may be illegal. I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause.
Mike
 
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