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Purple Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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21,749 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am already getting some good DIY info. I want to make it available as soon as possible to the members.
So I will post the links and move DIY posts here. It will be temporary.
As soon as we have lot of the common procedures ready I will create a permanent thread
and organize it accordingly.
 

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Banned
2006 E320 CDI
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932 Posts
I hope it does make sense, I did try to compact all the info I have.
 

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Registered
2004 E320 Wagon
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53 Posts
I just finished replacing front rotors and pads on my cars. I try to keep things low cost and bought Meyle rotors and pads from bmaparts.com (feel free to remove this if you don't want advertisement). There were a couple of things to keep in mind: 1) Have some blue loctite on hand, you will need it when reinstalling the brake pad brace and the lock screw for the rotor. 2) You will need a female torx for rotor lock screw and male torx for the wear sensor cable attachment (for the latter you can also use an inch-size socket). 3) My rotors were stuck and I used this tip from youtube to break them lose:
When installing the new rotors I had quite a bit of wobble. Before tightening the lock screw, pound gently with a plastic hammer on OD of the rotor where it needs to be pushed in. That fixed it for me. I did not disconnect the SBC. I rolled down the windows in case I would need something and otherwise just made sure to keep the doors closed. That's all.

I have noticed after driving the car for a few days, there is a metal clanking noise from the brakes when driving over bumps. The metal retainer clips that hold the brake pads in place have a finger that prevents the pad from moving up and down. Make sure these fingers (one on each side of each pad) are bent inward to ensure the pad is held firmly in place during normal driving.
 

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Purple Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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21,749 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, Not worried about the bmaparts mention. You saved hundreds doing it yourself.
When is the last time the brake fluid was changed?
 

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Purple Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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21,749 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Engine mounts courtesy of Eliris and Bruce.

I just did mine (2 motor and 1 transm) last weekend. Took me 8 hours, but if I had to do it all over again it would probably take me only 4 following these instructions.

Some myths you don’t need to do:
1 – You need to move the AC compressor – FALSE. (That is true for the W210, though)
2 – You have to loosen the Sway Bar – you can do that, but it was easier to loosen the steering rack (4 bolts)
3 – You need a special tool to loosen the upper mount bolts – I did it with a standard Craftsman 5/8” combination wrench which is about the same as a 16mm.

Here are some links:
Motor Mounts install w/ Pics *first timer, DIY style - MBWorld.org Forums
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w211-e-class/1542215-pics-my-damaged-engine-mounts.html

Here are some excerpts of the instructions I found/followed. You should be able to get it done with just these:

First you must remove 2 plastic covers under the engine. You must then remove the 4 bolts that hold on the black steering rack plate bolts (the 18mm bolts). These bolts have a nut on the backside that you must hold with a box wrench. Simply leave the steering rack hanging. You are now able to separate the steering column by removing the 13mm bolt - it helps to mark its position before you take it apart. Now remove the 2 bolts form the exhaust pipe flange to have more room. After this remove the bottom and top bolts for the motor mount. The top ones are a PITA. I managed to do it with a standard combination wrench. Jack up the engine slightly (if you are lying under the car use an engine hoist from the hook on the top front of the engine) and slide out the engine mount FROM THE BOTTOM to the rear by the loosened exhaust pipe.

...........................................
From another post:
3. Remove the protective black steel cover that holds the steering rack in place. It has 4 bolts long front and short rear. You will need two 18mm socket wrenches to hold the upper nut and the other one to loosen the lower part of the bolt impact wrench will make a job easier. Also loosen the 2 bolts from the exhaust pipe flanges. Steering rack will now become loose. Separate the steering column by removing the 13mm bolt. This gives you lots more room to play around.

4. Now u have to loosen the upper bolts of the mount which are more difficult you will need a 16mm socket wrench or a combination wrench. Right side will be harder do to less space. I was replacing the Valve cover gasket so while I had the cover out I found it easier to work form the top.

5. Raise the engine enough for u to remove the engine mounts out of its place on to the steering rack. If you are lying under the car use an engine hoist. Using a jack can work too, but if you need to be under the car too, it will be tight.

6. Remove the engine mounts out of the car. Left mount will drop on its own and the right will take some playing with the steering rack and the mount to get it out took me 10 min

7. Place the new mounts in, but remember, the new mounts will be at least inch higher so you will have to raise the engine even more. Don't worry, you are able to raise the engine enough for them to slide in real easy. Align the mounts and slowly lower the engine keeping an eye on it to make sure it fits in with the engine's holding bracket and the index pin on top.

8. Tighten the lower mount bolts then place the protective steel cover on top of the mount and tight the bolts. From this point on all it’s left is to put back the steel plate that holds the rack and other parts that you took off and you are done.

Good luck!!
 

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2004 E320 Wagon
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53 Posts
When is the last time the brake fluid was changed?
I don't know. I actually take the car to the dealer for service, but it's essentially only to tell me what needs to be done. So I pay for about an hour. The dealer has complete record on my car since new.
 

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E350 4M 06
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2,744 Posts
Thermostat Replacement E350 DIY

This is a Thermostat replacement DIY for E350:

1- Remove the front plastic skid plate by removing the nine 8 mm screws, this is located on the bottom side of the radiator/Condenser
2- Unscrew the coolant bottle cap
3- Loosen the radiator bleed fitting and drain 1.5 gallons of coolant into a clean container
4- Tighten the bleed fitting
5- Remove the radiator hose going into the thermostat by sliding the clip with a pair of pliers or a screw driver, pry the hose collar gently with a screw driver to help it dislodge from the thermostat housing
6-Remove the 2 hoses connected to the air pump
7- Remove the Torx screws securing the air pump to the engine, remember the position of the short screws vs the long screws by marking the short screws location with a magic marker
8- Pull the air pump towards the front but do not remove it, you are creating clearance to remove the thermostat housing
9- Using a 1/2 inch ratchet and a 17 mm socket, place the socket on the self tensioner preload nut, this nut is on the left side of the tensioner housing(some models have a Torx nut in the middle of the pulley for this purpose).
10- Have a 3 or 4 inch fat nail handy and place in your right hand
11- Rotate the tensioner about 1.5 inches counter clockwise using the 1/2 inch ratchet and place the nail in the preload hole on the bottom right of the tensioner housing.
12- There is a peg that will go past the hole and rest on the nail if this is done correctly
13- Draw a diagram of the serpentine belt routing or download a diagram and check its accuracy
14- Remove the serpentine belt and remove the idler pulley directly underneath the thermostat
15- Unplug the wire on the right hand side of the thermostat housing
16- Remove the 2 Torx bolts holding the thermostat (You must have a female Torx, if you don't go to Sears or your favorite hand tool store and buy a set)
17- Try to remove the thermostat housing, if it does not budge, DO NOT pry it loose, it will scratch the sealing surface, instead; wedge a large screw driver on the top rib and help it come loose.
18- Clean the surface with a PLASTIC tool, nothing metallic
19- Place the rubberized gasket on the new thermostat, if you bought a Wahler, it comes with a rubberized gasket, you do not need to add any sealant, if for some reason you bought another brand with a paper gasket, then add gasket RTV on the clean surfaces and tighten evenly to your favorite torque level ( I used a snap on torque wrench and tightened to 20 NM) Why? Because it leaked at 10 NM and it felt good and didn't leak at 20 NM)
20- Plug in the connector to the new thermostat
21-Re install the air pump, idler pulley and the serpentine belt
22- Fill up the reservoir with the coolant that you removed or add new coolant if it makes you feel better
23- Start the car and look for leaks, if none is found, take it on a 15 minute drive and re inspect for leaks.
24- Re install the plastic bottom cover
25- Wait for the engine to cool, add or remove coolant as necessary
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
-----'83 280 SL----- 5 speed....The PIG
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W211 FAQ's

Standard 211 FAQ’s
What years was it made?
2003 to 2009 (2002 in some countries)
Which automatic transmissions were available?
5 speed (722.6) and 7 speed (722.9)
Are the 211’s good cars?
The 211’s are Outstanding Driving Machines
Are the 211’s reliable?
Reliability is average, no better and no worse than a Ford or a Chevrolet
Is it expensive to maintain and repair a 211?
It costs about 3 times what you would spend on a Chevrolet or a Ford
How can people afford to own a 211?
The smart ones are active members of this forum and they can cut their maintenance and repair costs drastically by posting their problems and reading past Threads
How many miles can I expect my 211 to last?
Depending on the maintenance history; current members are passing 120K miles with no problems
Does the car stay together well after it ages?
The 211 is one of the most solid vehicles on the road today, BSR(Buzz, Squeaks, Rattles) with age is not a problem
What type of problems can I expect from my 211?
2003 to 2005 : noisy SBC system, CPS on the 3.2l engine, ball joints, airmatic suspension if so equipped, various electrical gremlins, transfer case shudder.
2006 to 2008: Ball joints, airmatic suspension if so equipped, soft balance shaft on 5 to 10% of the 3.5l(serious), engine leaks on the 3.5l, 7 speed transmission control valve.
2009: Too early to tell
What are the oil change intervals?
Varies depending on the year, 10K miles seems to be a popular interval
How important is following the owners manual on the oil selections?
Very important, do not deviate from the recommended materials
Is the 5 speed transmission (722.6 )sealed for life?
NO, change the oil and filter using the 14 quart/liter method every 40K miles
I’m considering buying a 211 with 120k miles to 20k miles for $5000 to $30,000, is that a good deal?
Depends on how well it was maintained and what warranty comes with it. Maintenance makes all the difference, make sure you have written documentation of all the work .
Should I buy extended warranty for the 211?
YES
If I have a choice between a CPO 211 and a non CPO 211, which one should I buy?
CPO, it will pay for itself in no time and it will give you peace of mind
Which tire brand should I buy for my 211?
Depends on where you live and your driving style, check tirerack.com for tire surveys
I have 16, 17, 18 inch rims and would like to install 18, 17, 16 inch rims, will they fit?
The offset needs to match and beware of the sport editions that have larger brakes
I want to buy a 2003 to 2006 211 but I’m concerned about the SBC brakes
SBC brakes stop faster, dry up wet rotors and provide years of trouble free service, the SBC module is warranted for 10 years and is not a hindrance to DIY’ers when servicing their brakes.
The Navigation system in my 2003 to 2008 211 is horrible, does an updated DVD improve its performance?
NO, don’t waste your money, if you want a better system, buy a 2009 or later MB.
I would like to super tune my 211 with a computer chip, hot cam, turbo, supercharger, headers, etc…, do you know the sources and how much does it cost.
211’s are not economically tunable, if you have a 350 and want more power then buy a 500 or 550, if you have a 500 or 550 and want more power then buy a AMG, it will be much cheaper in the long run.
:)
 
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