I had to replace both of the front plastic sun visor pieces that were cracked and both of them fell apart. I can not seam to find them anywhere. None on ebay for over a month. I need both the left and right side (tan). Any suggestions on where to get them...
DIY: Sun Visor Trim "Cap" p/n 1298110561xxxx and Vanity Mirror R&R
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Your local MBZ dealer will have them. The covers are sold separately from the sunvisors. A bit pricely for such a small piece. As always the left side cost more. I would go and just talk to your local MBZ parts guy and see what he says.
Unfortunately I do not have the part numbers.
I hope you find them
Russell
Unfortunately I do not have the part numbers.
I hope you find them
Russell
Sun Visor Plastic Trim
Part #'s 129 811 05 61
" " 129 811 06 61
You must indicate the color for these parts. I ordered thru the dealer.
Part #'s 129 811 05 61
" " 129 811 06 61
You must indicate the color for these parts. I ordered thru the dealer.
Which dealer can you please send the info? They are like over 40.00 each in Dallas. I have a 91 SL500 Roadster.
Please send address and phone number of your dealer to: [email protected]
Please send address and phone number of your dealer to: [email protected]
92 600 SL (LPG), 94 Subaru Impreza,02 Maserati 4200GT,97 Suzuki TL1000Sv, 02 Yamaha Fazer 1000
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Blimey, that's a first, a dealer in the UK is quoting less than you are paying in the US!! This site Mercedes Benz Parts quotes £14.30 each and that works out at $27.28 at today's rates, not a huge difference I know, but every little helps
How to replace the R129 sun visor trim "cap" p/n 1298110561 xxxx
I did this job awhile ago and only my failing memory or bad manners precluded my posting how I did it. Thanks for your 'reminder' LynnS-
The part I'm referring to is #30 at the link...
Russian Parts Site
Only Caveat...the steps I'll list I know work for a '99 SL500. From responses I got way back when, others with 129's were describing elements I couldn't locate on my car which made me think that in different years, the means of getting the visor rod out so you can get the trim piece on may be different than mine.
There are two ways to do this, Quick and Dirty, and the apparent MB way.
Terms I'll use-
o Visor Rod= horizontal rod that sits in 2 clips and holds the visor
o Visor Riser= vertical part of the rod that goes into the bracket in the header
o StarLock Washer= a small, circular lock washer with 'teeth' or points on it's interior used to retain the riser in position
Tools
o Pocket knife w/ small pointed blade or mini screwdriver like the kind used to repair glasses, thin ice pick...i.e., anything you've got that's small with a sharp point.
o Philips screwdriver
o Flat (standard) screwdriver
o Crazy Glue Gel, contact cement (Quick & Dirty only)
o Hammer (yes, you'll need this)
o Flashlight (maybe)
o At least 2 Heineken's (I needed that)
The apparent MB way...
1- If the trim piece mount is still screwed into the assembly in the header, remove it via the opening by the riser and set it aside.
2- With the rod left in it's 2 retaining clips, look upward to the point where the riser goes into the bracket
3- What you should see is a round threaded fixture, a black StarLock retaining washer, and the riser part of the rod
4- To get the rod to release, you have to use the small pointy whatever you've got and push the points of the Starlock washer upward so as to release tension on the Riser. Flashlight may help here.
5- After you've loosened 4-5 of these 'points', rotate the entire visor toward you so it's vertical, and lift the rod out of the 2 retaining clips, while supporting the 'corner' of the visor where the riser turns upward.
6- If you've pried enough of the points loose on the StarLock, the assembly should be loose enough to drop downward with MINOR force. If it doesn't, re-clip the visor and loosen a couple more 'points' on the starlock; repeat beginning of step 6.
7- The starlock washer may or may not come out with the riser. If it doesn't, use your pointed object to pry it out. Whatever you do, don't lose this thing.
8- Put the starlock retaining washer on something flat and sturdy and flatten it out with the hammer. You may have to use your pointed tool or flat screwdriver to press some of the points back into it's original shape before you whack it. NOTE: the reason you're doing this is to re-use the starlock retainer when you put the riser back in the bracket. I couldn't find an equivalent at the hardware store and wasn't about to drive 20 miles to MB Dealer for 2 of these things
9- Open first Heineken; reward yourself
10- Slide the new trim piece over the riser; push the repaired starlock retaining washer back on the riser to a point 3/4 of the way to the bend in the riser/rod
11- Reinsert the riser back into the mounting bracket until it stops. With your fingers, push the starlock up into the mount, then using the flat screwdriver, push the outside of the starlock up into the bracket. You'll have to do a little at a time on each 'side' of this round washer. The starlock should grab onto the threads in the bracket and needs to be level. You only have to get it to 'catch' on the 2nd thread.
12- Let go and see if it holds. If it does, open 2nd Heineken. If it doesn't, it means that the starlock is bent out of shape and you're going to have to flatten it out again. Cursing is permitted if this happens.
13- Position the trim piece, re-insert philips screw, and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, simply snug is fine, i.e., as soon as you get resistance on the screw, stop. If you torque down this screw too tight, when the top latches operate and put force on the header, it will snap the mounting piece on the back of the trim or worse yet, cause the trim itself to crack/splinter.
You're done-
Quick & Dirty
o At the narrowest point on the trim piece itself, using your hands, snap a break in the trim piece. Yes, you read correctly.
o Using the now created split in the trim, simply pry the ends apart and put the trim piece over the rod WITHOUT REMOVING THE RISER.
o Before you reattach the trimpiece with the mounting screw, use Crazy Glue gel on the edges of the piece where you snapped it. Reglue, let it dry, reattach and you're done.
On my car, I did the passenger side the hard way, the driver's side Q&D...ran out of beer.
Good Luck and Have Fun-
Bob
I did this job awhile ago and only my failing memory or bad manners precluded my posting how I did it. Thanks for your 'reminder' LynnS-
The part I'm referring to is #30 at the link...
Russian Parts Site
Only Caveat...the steps I'll list I know work for a '99 SL500. From responses I got way back when, others with 129's were describing elements I couldn't locate on my car which made me think that in different years, the means of getting the visor rod out so you can get the trim piece on may be different than mine.
There are two ways to do this, Quick and Dirty, and the apparent MB way.
Terms I'll use-
o Visor Rod= horizontal rod that sits in 2 clips and holds the visor
o Visor Riser= vertical part of the rod that goes into the bracket in the header
o StarLock Washer= a small, circular lock washer with 'teeth' or points on it's interior used to retain the riser in position
Tools
o Pocket knife w/ small pointed blade or mini screwdriver like the kind used to repair glasses, thin ice pick...i.e., anything you've got that's small with a sharp point.
o Philips screwdriver
o Flat (standard) screwdriver
o Crazy Glue Gel, contact cement (Quick & Dirty only)
o Hammer (yes, you'll need this)
o Flashlight (maybe)
o At least 2 Heineken's (I needed that)
The apparent MB way...
1- If the trim piece mount is still screwed into the assembly in the header, remove it via the opening by the riser and set it aside.
2- With the rod left in it's 2 retaining clips, look upward to the point where the riser goes into the bracket
3- What you should see is a round threaded fixture, a black StarLock retaining washer, and the riser part of the rod
4- To get the rod to release, you have to use the small pointy whatever you've got and push the points of the Starlock washer upward so as to release tension on the Riser. Flashlight may help here.
5- After you've loosened 4-5 of these 'points', rotate the entire visor toward you so it's vertical, and lift the rod out of the 2 retaining clips, while supporting the 'corner' of the visor where the riser turns upward.
6- If you've pried enough of the points loose on the StarLock, the assembly should be loose enough to drop downward with MINOR force. If it doesn't, re-clip the visor and loosen a couple more 'points' on the starlock; repeat beginning of step 6.
7- The starlock washer may or may not come out with the riser. If it doesn't, use your pointed object to pry it out. Whatever you do, don't lose this thing.
8- Put the starlock retaining washer on something flat and sturdy and flatten it out with the hammer. You may have to use your pointed tool or flat screwdriver to press some of the points back into it's original shape before you whack it. NOTE: the reason you're doing this is to re-use the starlock retainer when you put the riser back in the bracket. I couldn't find an equivalent at the hardware store and wasn't about to drive 20 miles to MB Dealer for 2 of these things
9- Open first Heineken; reward yourself
10- Slide the new trim piece over the riser; push the repaired starlock retaining washer back on the riser to a point 3/4 of the way to the bend in the riser/rod
11- Reinsert the riser back into the mounting bracket until it stops. With your fingers, push the starlock up into the mount, then using the flat screwdriver, push the outside of the starlock up into the bracket. You'll have to do a little at a time on each 'side' of this round washer. The starlock should grab onto the threads in the bracket and needs to be level. You only have to get it to 'catch' on the 2nd thread.
12- Let go and see if it holds. If it does, open 2nd Heineken. If it doesn't, it means that the starlock is bent out of shape and you're going to have to flatten it out again. Cursing is permitted if this happens.
13- Position the trim piece, re-insert philips screw, and DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, simply snug is fine, i.e., as soon as you get resistance on the screw, stop. If you torque down this screw too tight, when the top latches operate and put force on the header, it will snap the mounting piece on the back of the trim or worse yet, cause the trim itself to crack/splinter.
You're done-
Quick & Dirty
o At the narrowest point on the trim piece itself, using your hands, snap a break in the trim piece. Yes, you read correctly.
o Using the now created split in the trim, simply pry the ends apart and put the trim piece over the rod WITHOUT REMOVING THE RISER.
o Before you reattach the trimpiece with the mounting screw, use Crazy Glue gel on the edges of the piece where you snapped it. Reglue, let it dry, reattach and you're done.
On my car, I did the passenger side the hard way, the driver's side Q&D...ran out of beer.
Good Luck and Have Fun-
Bob
Hey HeinekenMan,SunGuy61 said:
Great write up. I posted the M-B p/n here at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/2240029-post16.html.
Note: Be sure an order the right p/n(last four numbers) according to the color of your interior. Always use your VIN.
Thanks Bob.
I now have the Caps and the left side and right side cost a grand total incl. taxes of Canadian dollars 114.13 or approx. US$103........................over US$50 each........ouch!!! The caps are made in France, maybe by somebody like Louis Vuitton. Isn't there a great line in the movie "The Graduate" when the father of Dustin Hofmann's girlfriend says " remember, there's money in plastics"?
I am not looking forward to fitting the clips but my car is kinda naked with them.
I now have the Caps and the left side and right side cost a grand total incl. taxes of Canadian dollars 114.13 or approx. US$103........................over US$50 each........ouch!!! The caps are made in France, maybe by somebody like Louis Vuitton. Isn't there a great line in the movie "The Graduate" when the father of Dustin Hofmann's girlfriend says " remember, there's money in plastics"?
I am not looking forward to fitting the clips but my car is kinda naked with them.
Eventually replaced the left and right sun visor mount trims and Bob's guidance was very useful. Removing the StarLock retaining clips was not easy but I did not need a hammer. As instructed, I awarded myself 2 Heinkens upon completion of the task.
Regards, Tim
Regards, Tim
Tim,
Glad this worked out for you. About those [email protected]#n washers...now you know why I chose Plan B, snap the trim piece at it's thinnest point, fit it, re-glue it, be done with it, on the driver's side.
Enjoy the Heinekens...no Molson for you, eh?
Bob
Tried for an hour to get the washer out with no luck. Actually broke a small scredriver in the washer. Seems like that thing is made of steel.
Went to the Q&D method to get it done.
The crack is obvious but nowhere as bad as the broken trim.
Thanks for the advice.
Went to the Q&D method to get it done.
The crack is obvious but nowhere as bad as the broken trim.
Thanks for the advice.
Well, I ordered a 1298110561 and 1298110661 today for our '98 SL500. Yep, needed these after taking apart that area to clean out leaking hydraulic fluid from those latch cylinders (sent to Dennis for rebuild, of course). So these plastic trim pieces are now $40 and change, each. It's really sad to see MB not support DIY'ers and ripping us off for $4 in plastic. After 4 Mercedes over 22 years, I may shop elsewhere for my new car. But alas I digress. Just wanted to let folks know they're charging $40 each for these now.
My first post here. Really love this forum. Very helpful. Been lurking for a few years. Thanks for all who've helped with great information about these plastic pieces, the cylinders, rebuilding, and how to -manually- lock down the rear part of the soft-top.
My first post here. Really love this forum. Very helpful. Been lurking for a few years. Thanks for all who've helped with great information about these plastic pieces, the cylinders, rebuilding, and how to -manually- lock down the rear part of the soft-top.
Nice to know the current price, as everybody is going to need one sooner or later, but $80 (for both sides) can buy lots of pizza and beer. I think I'll just cut off the screw-on attachment part and glue the 'ring' part permanently to the surface to avoid anymore cracking due to stress.
$36.99 delivered from Parts.com
Remember to use your VIN when ordering interior plastic parts. Especially over the Internet.
Try this p/n 12981105619045 . I took the space out from the last 4 digits.
Most MB p/n's are ten digits but this one has an extra four due to the color code.
Note: this is not an easy p/n to find unless you know where to go and how to sort through everything. Especially due to the four digit interior color codes. But to be quite honest I got this p/n from a Dealership Parts Counter using my VIN.
or you can use EPC - M-B Electronic Parts Catalog is free for USA models and is browser-based which allows the user to specify virtually every part for the models covered.
MB SL600, MB 380SE, Suzuki Grand Vitara, 38' Chris-Craft, Volvo V70XC, and my own two feet...
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