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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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Discussion Starter #1
I am currently taking plenty of pics and will be making a write up and DIY guide for Shocks, and then springs.

There are some partials, and Bazzle's shock guide.. I am going to try and make a really good and "official" looking guide for this.. pictures of every aspect of the job.
 

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2004 230SLK
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222 Posts
I am currently taking plenty of pics and will be making a write up and DIY guide for Shocks, and then springs.

There are some partials, and Bazzle's shock guide.. I am going to try and make a really good and "official" looking guide for this.. pictures of every aspect of the job.
Looking forward to your writeup. Thanks in advance!
 

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2002 SLK 32 AMG, bone stock. 1987 190E 2.3-16 valve (destroyed). 2005 E320 new toy.
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14,926 Posts
When you're done, add it to the tech tips sticky....... :thumbsup:
 

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2000 Slk230 Limited Edition
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133 Posts
I don't know if you have done both before, but changing the springs out even with the tool can be time consuming :mad: ...looking forward to the write up.
 

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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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Discussion Starter #5
The write up wont be happening tonight... These H&R springs are a PAIN. On top of that... the spring compressor I have is a bad one, I will be sure to have this be an excellent write-up and how-to though.. So you won't be taking as much time as I am on this
 

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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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1,528 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
For Reference: Warning lots of pics

For Reference:

Here is the how to..

The tool sizes may not be SPOT on.. but as close to recollection as possible. I will start with the back. Here are some notes:

-WD40 or any sort of lube like this is EXCELLENT
-Top of back shocks are very hard to get to if trunk panels are not removed.
-Back shocks go in 50x easier than front shocks.
-It may be wise to take the shocks out, change springs, and then put shocks in
-I hated doing this.

Bottom of shock: 16mm bolt and nut
Top of shock: 17 or 19mm.. I kinda forgot, its about that size tho.
Control arm: I think an 18mm bolt and nut
Stabalizer bar: T50 star
Plastic Pan: 2 10mm bolts, or around 10mm

Try to jack it about in this location when removed the top bolts on shock


Here is where the top of the shock is accessed. If I remember it was 2 17mm nuts molded together (not supposed to be).. patience is good here


Here is the technique I used to hold the shock and then twist the nuts


You need to remove this plastic pan to access the bottom of shock and when removing the control arm.. it has 2 10mm(?) bolts, both are shown.



Stabalizer bar (a Star bolt, T-50) is removed and then the control arm is removed. Control arm was a 18mm bolt and nut (im not 100% on this one). This needs to be done to remove the spring, not necessary for shock.



This concludes rear.
 

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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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1,528 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Front shocks and springs:


Notes and such in previous post still apply here.

All nuts and bolts are same size all around. I have a few pics of the spring compressor I used in here..

It was a 2 prong top, 2 prong bottom spring compressor.. do NOT use one like this.


When jacking the control arm to loosen the top shock nuts place jack here. When adjusting the control arm to remove the bolts on Sway bar and spring place it to the right of this location.



Top of shocks on front are the same, with this black cover over it. Remove the cover with 'plyers' or something similar. Nuts are same as rear


Same method as rear in removing the nuts.. Here it shows 3/4 wrench, as the size it is ... we strangely did not have (we have almost EVERY size wrench from 8mm to 18mm


Here is the shock, it is in a somewhat tight-fitting location.. 16mm bolt and nut, I sprayed some WD40 to loosen it up.


Another side shot of bottom of the front shock


The front shocks drop down and can be pulled out with ease. At this point, I suggest you then begin the process to remove the spring.


Here is the sway bar removal.. It has 2 nuts on it.. and the front lower A arm needs to be supported by the jack in order to remove this, otherwise the bolts will bend while removing. It is 13mm nuts, another weird one.


Spring removal.. Using whichever type spring compressor is available to you


Spring removed.. spring pad may fall out, or may not. Make sure you note that the end of the spring needs to align with the spring pad on top AND the A arm slot on bottom


here is my spring compressor in the H&R spring. Very crappy spring compressor.. do not use this style.


Front shock/spring continued on next post
 

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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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1,528 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
FINALLY!

Take note of the bottom of the spring. IT needs to align into the slot shown here. This needs to align WITH the top pad ALSO. This is very important and can be difficult to get accomplished.



YAY DONE!



This concludes front and rear shock and spring removal.

Any tips and comments are welcome!
 

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1998 SLK 230
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2,594 Posts
good write up :thumbsup:
 

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1999 SLK230 Kompressor
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332 Posts
Is it better to do this job with the car on the ground (as shown in pics) or can vehicle be raised up on heavy duty car lift, like they have in the dealer shop?
 

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Okay, stupid question here... not to me, but probably to you all. I have read several posts on several sites about shocks and springs. None as good as this I might add, but my question is, why does everyone replace the springs? I have 107K in my 1999 230 and I am sure no springs or shocks have ever been replaced. I was going to replace the shocks, but now wonder if I should do the springs also. Is there a way to tell if they are bad or does everyone replace them to lower the car?
BTW great right up gakz. I have never written anything on this site but use tips from all the great members all the time. Never have to take my car to the shop, just do it all my self. I love it!
 

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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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1,528 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Well springs can in fact go bad over time.. and since you are over 100k yours will likely start to go bad, if they are not already.

The reason I did my springs was mostly to lower the car.. although my springs in the back were bad. I possibly have to change my pads out also as I feel they may be bad also, i'm still waiting for it to settle.

If you still experience squeeking after a shock change that can be 1 indication the springs are bad, it may also be bushings
 

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Pads? Not sure what you mean. I do have squeaking in the back but assumed it was bushings. I have noticed some clunking in the back also and since I know I need shocks I thought that would fix it. Now I am thinking otherwise. Is there any way to tell if a spring is bad other than squeaking?
 

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'00 slk230k (engine swap), '75 300D, 2011 GTI
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1,528 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
No not really.. Sometimes when the car starts to sink in a corner, more than normal, it usually is the shock.. but everyonce in a while can be caused from springs.

The pads are what sits on top of the spring, when you put the spring in it's "cradle".

I'm not saying it is your springs that are bad, it is only a possibility.
 

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1998 SLK230 R170 Black - stock!
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40 Posts
Great write up, good info. One question: why are our stock shocks marked H2?
As for shocks, to tell if they are worn out, remember the function [rear shocks] they are to dampen up and down movement. If you push down on rear of the car and it bounces excessively then the shock is most likely at fault. Also you can look for evidence of fluid leakage. That would indicate the seals are bad on the shock.
 
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