DIY Smoke and Mirrors Revisited!

56617 Views 62 Replies 37 Participants Last post by 2.7 TT, Jun 5, 2017

MOS500

Discussion Starter · Nov 2, 2008

10

Hi,

After owning my sisters S500 for a few months, I noticed my passenger mirror to always go up when using the memory buttons. A few months later, more symptoms appeared which were an occasional blown #30, 20A fuse when tilting the steering wheel. I installed a 25A fuse and was well for a few more months. OK, let's try a 30A fuse then the smoke show occurred while moving the mirrors out of tucked position. Well, after reading about other owners experiences, I decided to tackle a repair vs. buying a new mirror(s) for $$$.

I was lucky that no permanent damage occurred and snapped a few photos to share with all. I searched many mirror topics and couldn't find how to remove the outer housing. My 97 S500 appears to have a one piece housing compared to the ones I've seen with exploded views displaying 3 pieces. It is also not neccessary to remove anything from the passenger compartment.

Basically, tuck your mirrors all the way, unscrew 3 screws, unbolt 2 electrical harnesses, unlock the outer mirror housing, and the inner mirror assembly pops out.

Good luck!

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Reactions: 5

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MOS500

Discussion Starter · #2 · Nov 2, 2008

5

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Reactions: 2

bobs

· #3 · Nov 2, 2008

Awesome write-up! :thumbsup:

Please re-post this in the "knowldge base" thread too.

vvee12

· #4 · Nov 2, 2008

excellent writeup...it was too late for mine as my wires were so corroded they basically dissentagrated (mispelled). I was screwed because they didnt offer just the wire replacement so I had to buy 2 new mirrors

MOS500

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 2, 2008

vvee12 said:
excellent writeup...it was too late for mine as my wires were so corroded they basically dissentagrated (mispelled). I was screwed because they didnt offer just the wire replacement so I had to buy 2 new mirrors

THX! If you had a wiring diagram, it would be rebuildable. I almost replaced the wires by cutting and splicing in w/solder joints. I may do so in the future if the rest of the rubber loomed wiring goes south. They appeared to be unscathed by heat, moisture, and bending when moving mirrors.

OUCH on the two new mirrors...

roadster49

· #6 · Nov 5, 2008

Excellent.
Anyone know where I can get the rubber for between the mirror and the door, mine is cracking. 97 s500 coupe

bazookatooth

· #7 · Mar 24, 2009

sorry to bump this thread back up, but i just wanted to thank you for the write up. I just finished re insulating all the wires in both mirrors. They both work like a charm now!

best part...no more floppy mirrors. I finally got them to extend all the way out.

Thanks again.

MOS500

Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 24, 2009

bazookatooth said:
sorry to bump this thread back up, but i just wanted to thank you for the write up. I just finished re insulating all the wires in both mirrors. They both work like a charm now!

best part...no more floppy mirrors. I finally got them to extend all the way out.

Thanks again.

That is GREAT news! Enjoy the ride!

gumsie

· #9 · Mar 24, 2009

I wonder if they used cabling with a max rating too close to the current that flows?

hw230

· #10 · May 29, 2009

Same problem happened on my friend's 97' S320 (W140)
the problem is...... If you want to remove the screw behind the side mirror, you must fold the mirror first, but everytime press the button to fold it, the fuse will burn, may I know is there any other way to fold the mirror to let me remove the screw? thanks a lot.

cool

· #11 · May 29, 2009

the wiring harness all over the car was made out of low heat rating, they tried cutting corners during engineering and production, mostly the wiring harness on the engine side tends to disintegrate, very few cases of side view mirror suffering from that defect although it is common.

NZ Benz

· #12 · May 29, 2009

cool said:
the wiring harness all over the car was made out of low heat rating, they tried cutting corners during engineering and production, mostly the wiring harness on the engine side tends to disintegrate, very few cases of side view mirror suffering from that defect although it is common.

It's actually to design the car to be easily recyclable per EU regulations.

hw230

· #13 · May 29, 2009

sorry, can anyone tell me how to remove the screw without folding the side mirror please? coz I cannot fold it due to a good fuse will burn everytime I press the "side mirror fold" button. THANKS.

cart1mc

· #14 · Jan 7, 2010

What size shrink tubing should be obtained? What colors?

Thanks for putting this information in the forum.

iss

· #15 · Jan 8, 2010 (Edited)

R.H. side mirror

3 months ago, your post saved me a lot of money!!! :thumbsup: Thanks :thumbsup: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1475259-passenger-mirror-right-hand-side.html

cart1mc

· #16 · Jan 10, 2010

Thank you very much for your guidance.

I have aquired 7 colors of 3/32" shrink tubing. My question is whether to use it to cover all portions of the wire including those portions with intact insulation, or to try and strip the insulation from the wires so that everything becomes bare wire?

Looking at your photos it appears that you have replaced some of the wire with new wire. Are my obsevations correct?

Thanks again.

MOS500

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jan 10, 2010

cart1mc said:
Thank you very much for your guidance.

I have aquired 7 colors of 3/32" shrink tubing. My question is whether to use it to cover all portions of the wire including those portions with intact insulation, or to try and strip the insulation from the wires so that everything becomes bare wire?

Looking at your photos it appears that you have replaced some of the wire with new wire. Are my obsevations correct?

Thanks again.

I only covered bare and partially insulated wiring as no new wiring was used.
Up to you how far you want to go! Good luck!

v12fun

· #18 · Feb 6, 2010

Hi there,

My wiring was so bad that i decided to attempt a rewire having resigned myself to the fact that I was going to have to spend £400 GPB on a new one anyway, it was "do or die"....

Be very careful - if like mine, you have no way of discerning what colour enters the plug - when you open the connectors the pins jump out and you have no way of knowing what went where.
STOP
Before you open the plug, under a magnifying glass and bright light (I used a soldering station with arms and a large maglite), very close to the point of entry to the plug, the colours are just discernible allowing you to map colour to conn number.

The pins inside the plug can be opened very carefully and new wires inserted and reclosed. For good measure upon completion I wrapped the new cables into a loom with self-amalgamating tape which is much more weather resistant than insulating tape.

Mine now works perfectly.

When I do the second one, I'll photograph the stages and publish a wiring diagram of the appropriate connections.

Hope this helps :thumbsup:Newbie

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cart1mc

· #19 · Feb 6, 2010

Thanks for the information. I was able to apply shrink tubing, and by pulling the wires one at a time and covering just that wire, I was able to get the mirror operational again.

There is a continuing problem in as much as the memory capability has vanished. Every time there is a driver change, the mirror in question has to be independently adjusted. I have no idea what the problem is.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks

geebee

· #20 · Feb 8, 2010

Now THAT's good material! Nice format, well done.

The wiring material on the later 140's (98-99) seems a little more robust than the earlier runs. When I rebuilt my mirrors a few years back, only one or two wires had chaffed. The rest were in remarkably good shape.

I replaced the entire wire-runs with marine wire, and found a marine plug set as well. As I recall, the retract/extend mechanics drove me crazy.

All the best -

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