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Discussion Starter #1
I promised this a few weeks ago--sorry for the delay.

Mercedes-Benz W210 E-Class rear window regulator replacement (as performed on a 1999 E320 wagon--left rear door)

Replacement part #: MBZ081245

Source: www.stopshopanddrive.com ($46)

Tools needed:

-Basic manual rivet gun
-4 aluminum rivets

OR

-Heavy-duty rivet gun
-4 steel rivets (OE P/N: 003 990 24 97)

-Phillips screwdriver
-Medium Torx screwdrivers
-Trim pry tool or flat head screwdriver (w/ tip covered in tape)
-Drill (at least 14.4v cordless, or corded recommended)
-Series of small-med bits (for metal or all-purpose)
-Automotive Goop or other tacky adhesive

Background and Instructions:
You're driving along one day, minding your own business. You try to roll down the window--probably the rear window--only to hear a horrendous clunking, grinding, and snapping sound.

Hopefully your window is still suspended in its track, but it also might have fallen into the door panel.
What now?

Chances are you just experienced the all-too-common window regulator failure. Thanks to the bean counters,
M-B's vendors obviously cut a few corners in producing this fine car. Luckily, this one is not too tough
to fix for anyone with decent mechanical ability (harder than an oil change, but easier than a brake job). The regulator is just a fancy name for the channel & pulley system that guide the window's path. The motor is attached to the regulator, but is rarely the culprit with W210 window problems.


The first thing you have to do is tape the window in the up position, like so:


Now let's start the door panel removal by removing three simple phillips-head screws. The first one is accessed by gently prying the door handle liner away from the door. Set it aside.


The second one is behind a round cap in the middle of the door. Set the cap and screw aside.


The final one holds the door latch frame onto the panel. Set the frame and screw aside.


Now it's time to work the panel loose from the metal door. Take your pry tool or screwdriver and gently work around the outside of the door. The attachment points are pretty obvious, since they are the points where the panel is held on especially tightly.

Just work your tool in and either pry or twist slightly. You'll hear the ribbed fasteners pop out easily. It's not uncommon to break a couple of these along the way, but you can find cheap, better-than-OE replacements at home improvement stores. When the panel comes free, you'll see this:


You'll need to first unplug the wiring harness that connects to the window button. Then, pull the door handle and work the cable hook free from the latch mechanism. You'll have to snap the white guide piece free to allow the door panel to pull away:


The speaker will remain connected, but you'll still have enough slack that you can now set the door panel in the car seat footwell and begin working.

Peel back the moisture seal (plastic sheet) to the speaker area so you'll have free access to the inner shell of the door. At this point, pick a small drill bit (like 1/16") and start drilling out the bottom two rivets.


The way it works is that you'll move up a few fractions of an inch on each bit, until eventually the rivet will fall apart into two pieces. No more rivets, just holes:


Do the same process with the top two rivets and the entire regulator and motor will come out in a single piece. Make sure you unplug the motor's wiring harness before you pull the assembly out of the door.


Remove the 2-3 torx screws holding the motor to the regulator. Swivel the motor out of it's spot and rotate it into place in the new regulator. It has a toothed cog that you have to line up. You'll know it's right when you feel it--a very secure connection.

Replace the torx screws.


Be sure you've removed all the broken junk from the bottom of the door shell unless you want it rattling around in there. Now remove the tape from the window and pull it down until you can access the rail that holds the glass. Position the new regulator so that it
slides neatly onto that metal rail. You will have to remove a small tension clip to make this attachment, and that same tension clip will then allow the regulator to stay centered on the window rail. It's hard to explain, but it's pretty obvious when you do it.

Now you're ready to put in your new rivets. Align the regulator with the old rivet holes and pop the new rivets into place. I started with OE steel rivets, but they were way too long and beefy for my basic rivet gun. I used the aluminum ones, and they seemed to make a solid enough connection.


Now hook the motor back up and we need to re-adapt the window. With the ignition key in the 2nd position, move the window up (to the stop) and hold for 5 seconds. Do the same with the down position. Your motor should now "know" the new full-up and full-down points.

Reseal the moisture guard with Goop, replace the latch cable, hook the window switch back up, and replace the door panel. Remember, the panel hooks over the top of the clips in the window seal area, then just push around the outside to snap it into place. Replace those three original screws, along with the pieces removed during access, and you're good to go!


Happy DIY
Ash (ashman78)
 

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STICKY STICKY STICKY!!

Thanks for the work and taking the time to get it all photo-documented.

This is one of the other things I don't look forward to having to do on my 210 someday, but at least when it happens I'll know how to do it.

Thanks again, Ash. Great Job.

Take care and enjoy the ride,
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bump for FYI. If this isn't going to be sticky as-is, please let me know if I can improve it for future searches. Thx!

Ash
 

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2006 W220 S430 and 2010 W204 C300 Sport
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Great description and pics.

The unfortunate thing is the fact that the new factory part regulator is not better than the original. The only thing that might be different is the quality of the plastic parts or possibly some sort of material change from old to new. But by looking at the new part, it seems to be the same.

On a side note, the breaking point seems to be where the the two ends of the cable come together into a nylon keeper. The keeper also has and internal spring that is supposed to take the shock when the window is stopped in the full up or down position.

Unfortunately again, there does not appear to be an easy way to fix this part. If anyone has fixed a regulator, this would be nice to know too.
 

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2006 W220 S430 and 2010 W204 C300 Sport
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Sorry, I did not see the source:

Source: www.stopshopanddrive.com ($46)

Wow, this is a great price. I think I paid double only a couple of years ago.

At $46, replacing is definitely better than trying to fix. :)
 

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Same thing happened to mine also (rear left window) but I got it for $40 from a local shop. Thanx ashman 4 da nice info, it helped explain 2 da guy who replaced it for me, another $14 bill.
 

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Ashman, Thanks for the great advice and pictures. This looks like a common problem and I'm glad I found this site, but I have one question. I was able to find all the screws and pulled out all the plastic clips on the driver side rear door, but can you confirm how the top edge of the door panel is removed from the door? Do I simply pull straight up or at a certain angle? I have a 2001 E320.

Thanks!!
 

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Yikes! Thanks for taking the time to post the detailed instructions.

I do quite a bit of work on my car but this looks like a real pain in the ass.

My battery died, I replaced it, then resynchronized the windows. When I finally figured out how to do that, as I was holding the right rear button, the window was all the way down, and then I heard the sickening sound of the window regulator in the agonizing throes of death.

Rather than spend what would easily take me a 1/2 day on doing this, I may have to hold my nose and let my local independent shop do the dirty deed.

$250 including labor. OOOOOOUUUUUUCHHHHHH!
 

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THANK YOU so much for such great pictures and instructions. I was about to let a workshop do this for big bucks when I stumbled on this.

For what it's worth, I am in Australia, the car is a 1998 E240, and here are the Australian part numbers:

A2107301646 (RHR)
A2107301546 (LHR)

The top plastic pulley in my RHR one shattered into many pieces. I fixed it, then was testing all the other windows when *CRACK* the LHR one broke as well!! This time it was the plastic housing holding the two ends of the wire and center plastic regulator piece which cracked and broke. What are the odds of both side breaking on the same day. Is this planned obsolescence?

Get ready for this, in Australia, EACH of these parts cost AUD$315 (US$230) so count yourselves lucky to have only paid US$40. (It's almost worth shipping it over, cept I needed to fix it in a hurry). Even 2nd hand parts were no cheaper. I guess this breaks so much that there is a good demand for them. The plastic pieces on the new parts did look slightly different, so maybe they have strengthened it somewhat.

Some extra tips for others who want to do this:

- the top part of the trim hooks on, so once you've unscrewed and popped the plastic clips, pull the trim away and up.

- Standard rivets were very tough, I first drilled through with a very fine drill, and progressively got larger but the larger drill bits would not bite. Finally I had to drill a little with an oversized bit then chisel the heads off, then hammered them out with a punch

- When adapting the window, note that there are two "stops" in the window switch for each direction (partially in for continuous motion as long as the button is held, fully in for automatic "completely up" or "completely down"). I had to keep pushing it all the way in for full up, and it would stop after an inch, then repeat until the window is completely up. Then the motor learned where the position of the window was when completely up.

Other than that, the guide covered everything. Thanks again ashman78! :D
 

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I had the same problem today and tried to open up the door panel. My 2001 E320 has side airbags so I think there might be additional wiring and screws that have to be taken out. By taking the 3 screws out I was unable to remove the panel. I also found another tab with "SRS" inscribed on it and upon removing the tab discovered another screw. Taking this 4th screw out did not open the top side of the panel.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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RaleighMB said:
I had the same problem today and tried to open up the door panel. My 2001 E320 has side airbags so I think there might be additional wiring and screws that have to be taken out. By taking the 3 screws out I was unable to remove the panel. I also found another tab with "SRS" inscribed on it and upon removing the tab discovered another screw. Taking this 4th screw out did not open the top side of the panel.

Any help is appreciated.
You've correctly found the fourth screw introduced with the door air bags. The panel will come off, you just need to make sure all the poppers are out (side and bottom of panel) and then 'wiggle' the panel up and off the top of the door.

I have an '01 E430 and with a little gentle persuasion the panel popped off.

Good luck!

- Nellie
 

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I had the same problem with my rear door panel. After the mechanic fixed the regulator, he forgot to correctly attach the door lock plunger. I decided to try and get into the door and fix it, and found all 4 screws, but couldn't get the panel loose at the horizontal "shelf" where the glass meets the door. I managed to fix the lock nub by just reaching up in there, but am still wondering just how that panel comes off...
 

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i have made it this far but cant seem to get the panel off. so i suppose to pull up to release the panel from the hooks
 

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Yep. Once you've removed all the screws and released the side / bottom poppers, you simply lift the panel up and off the lip of the door. It sits fairly tightly on the lip so don't be surprised if you need the gentle application of force.

I wanted to add my heartfelt thanks to the originator of this post - replaced my left rear window regulator over the weekend and it would have been a much harder job without the above instructions.

Incidentally I found a regulator at www.partstrain.com for $15.59

I did a side by side comparison against the original and couldn't find any major differences.

Only time will tell how good (or not!) the quality is but the price was definitely amazing.

Happy DIY-ing!

- Nellie
 

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Thanx...i got everything off and i got the regulator off.im waiting for my part to come in. i have searched everywhere and i can find this regulator for no less than $115. i have a 96 e320 though. i think the 2000's and up are very inexpensive. but as soon as it comes in i hope to finish up
 

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Thanks, wasn't a bad job at all once I was past getting the old rivets out. I must have broken 4 drill bits and was down to the needlenose pliers. By the time I got to the last one, I would have dug it out with a spoon if necessary. The regulator was $114. Dealer said repair might be $500. I think the motor's also about $100. Don't pay more than $50 for this labor.
 

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Ashman,
You said: Source: www.stopshopanddrive.com ($46)

Their price went up a bit, but still the best price I've seen.
$64 for aftermarket, $88 for genuine. Since many in the forums
have said that the genuine stuff doesn't look improved, I just
ordered the aftermarket one from stopshopanddrive - free shipping, no tax.

I plan on using the Home Depot rivets. Has anyone noticed
inferior performance from the aluminum versus MB Steel rivets?

Thanks again for the Knowledge,
TJ

StopShopAndDrive's Window Regulators for W210:
http://www.stopshopanddrive.com/epcksoap.epc?action=Search&cookieID=1WJ0SAW7K1WJ0SRS69&drillid=7&[email protected]@Rear+Power+Window+Regulator&clientid=stopshopanddrive.com
 
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