Mercedes-Benz Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished changing the oil and air filter(s) on my 2008 E350 this afternoon. All in all, really easy, and know there are posts out there but wanted to share some thoughts while they are still fresh.

This was my first E350 oil change. I decided to go topside and used a MityVac 7201 (8.8L).
Oil Filter Cartridge (Purolator - AdvanceAuto)
8.x Qts Mobile1 0-40
Type B (metal) filter wrench

Commentary:
I removed the plastic engine cover by gently (but firmly) lifting up on the front and then the side / corners. Be careful as the front portion can separate from the back piece as you're carrying away from the vehicle. Note, there is metal clip that anchors the back portion of the engine cover that you’ll need to contend with. You’ll also need to unplug a rubber hose (no fittings) that attaches to the front portion.
I like the fact that the air filters are actually contained on the underside of the plastic engine cover (one on each side leading to each intake tube). 4 #25 torx screws holds each of the air filter housings to the cover - which makes it easy to inspect / replace the air filters.

I ended up purchasing a metal "type B" filter wrench from AutoZone - which worked fine in removing the oil filter housing - located near the front / right of center of the engine compartment. I had a towel draped around the engine compartment but not sure it was really necessary as the assembly came out without any mess.

The MityVac 7201 does fine. I tightned the top screws, flipped the lever on the top, connected one of the smaller hoses to the main hose - and that to the unit and was ready to go. All told it took about 20 minutes (which gives you plenty of time to replace the cartridge, air filters, check belts / hoses, etc. ) to get 7.8 L of oil out of the engine. After starting the suction (about 10 pumps), I'd do another 5 or so pumps every couple of minutes.

A couple of notes on the oil filter:
There are 2 lines on the replacement filter and it is important to make sure that the top line is covered by the assembly - in otherwords, make sure the cartridge is pressed all of the way in to the top of the housing. It’s probably easiest to make a note on how far the existing cartridge is on the assembly. It’s real easy to push the new cartridge on and think it’s on. Be sure – hit the line!
The oil filter had 3 rubber O ring gaskets which I replaced as well.

I converted Liters to Quarts and put 8.3ish quarts of oil back in to account for the oil in the filter. I realize the actual (empty) amount is more, but I only wanted to put in what I took out. I put the new cartridge assembly back in the motor, and engine cover back on. I put the key in the ignition to check the oil level - which indicated fine. I reset the service indicator (see great instructions from another post below) and buttoned everything back up. As a side I used the extractor to push the used oil into each of the empty quart containers.

Complete, I probably spent just over an hour doing the whole deal, most of which was spent getting a feel for things. Easy to do, no regrets... I wrestled with the Mobile1 0/40 5/30 option. Here in Austin 5/30 is available at WalMart and Sams for like $24 for a 5 qt. container vs. $8 or so for individual 0/40 quarts. To be honest, one of the Mercedes guides, if I remember correctly, indicates 0/40 Mobile1, 5/40 Castrol, 0/30... etc. are all acceptable. I don't think the weight difference makes a significant difference, and as one poster pointed out, the viscosity ranges seem to be the same. I'm not driving the car at the north pole, nor at the equator... Regardless, I opted to spend the extra money for the 0/40 as I didn't want to call too many audibles.

David


2007 E-350 Command Center to reset Maintenance Service Interval

General information: This uses the commands on the steering wheel. (1) The up and down arrows, and (2) the page up and down buttons on the left side, and (3) the - + buttons on the right of the steering wheel. There is a built in delay of a second or two between sub-menu items. Be patient.

Also note on the bottom of the center display that the mileage display (at the bottom) gets replaced with a sequence of page up - page down, and -+ symbols to help with navigation through the sub-menus. Read from right to left to get back out of the menu currently displayed.

How to reset the Maintenance Service interval:

- Switch ignition on to position one, (first click clockwise);
- "Outside temperature" should be displayed, if not move to it (You have to be in this display to go further);
- Press the trip odometer, "reset", knob three times consecutively ( The Voltage display will appear);
- Press Down Arrow to enter the "Service Menu". "Service Data" submenu below will be highlighted.
- Press right page to enter the Service data submenu. (Left page goes up in menus, -+ selects items displayed)
- Press - three times on right of wheel to highlight "Confirmation".
- Use right page to select to display sub-menu as to what to confirm.
- Select "Full Service" (No need to use -+.) to confirm this choice
- Press right page to confirm. (Delay is about 3 seconds.)
- Press left page twice to exit the menu system, or turn off the ignition switch.
- Turn off ignition. Turn back on. The display should show that it is recalculating the mileage and days. This takes about 60 seconds so be patient.

- Go back to living life with a small smile on your face.

Disclaimer / Caveat -
I did not understand all that I saw. If I could not "select" what was displayed by pressing right page, then I concluded that what was displayed was information, and not a command to be entered. I accept no responsibility for making this information publically available.
If you figure out some of what the US service intervals, etc. other service menus mean, please let me know. [email protected] David L. Carriere
 

·
Super Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
Joined
·
22,982 Posts
Glad to see good maintenance upkeep.

One note, it has been a while since I saw a Purolator MB filter. The last I saw was paper.
The car should get the fleece style filter to go the full 10-13k miles. If Purolator is using
fleece now then I would not worry. If not then the oil is fine, but I would change the
filter soon to a fleece style filter.
 

·
Super Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
Joined
·
22,982 Posts
You're fine then. K&N does the same repackaging and charges $20 or more.
 

·
Super Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
Joined
·
22,982 Posts
I edited out the purchase place question because I saw you listed it. They don't stock them
up here and they will order them for $16.99. I told them I can get the Manns for less
and will continue to do so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I plan to do this myself in the next few days. Where exactly is the oil dip stick? I assume this is the proper place to use for draining the oil with the MityVac?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The dipstick tube (on my 2008 350) is located at the rear of the engine, just left of center. Hard to miss the yellow ring that caps the dipstick.
It's my understanding that not all vehicles have a true dipstick... My 2005 SL500 does not have.

Yes, that is where you would want to insert the Mityvac tube. Make sure you're using the largest hoses for the Mityvac, that the top screws are tight on the unit and that you have the hose down the dipstick tube all of the way.

Also when you take the oil filter out, make a mental note (do this!) as to how far that filter is up in the housing.

Be patient! Plenty of other things to do / check while the oil is being sucked out and periodic pumps help (are required).

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
My car is a 2008 E350 as well. I went out and took a look. I removed the front part of the engine cover and could see the oil filter right there. However, all I can see is a red dipstick in the front left portion of the engine and a tube at the back center of the engine with a "MB Shop Only" cover on it. I assume this is the transmission fluid.

However, what is the red dipstick? Is this the engine oil, or is this power steering fluid or something?

If this isn't the oil, is the oil dipstick under the main portion of the engine cover?
 

·
Super Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
Joined
·
22,982 Posts
That sounds like the oil dipstick tube. I believe in 2008 you will find the red cap is just
a cap. There is no dipstick on most W211s for oil.
When I do oil changes I use a 12 liter MityVac. I look at how much came out and add that
amount back. The gauges on the dash will tell if you need to add more oil or take some out.
I have never had a problem doing it that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ok, I am not sure I understand your response.

I have a dipstick at the front of my motor which is not covered by the engine cover. It has a red cap and it appears to lead to the engine oil. Even my owners manual says there is a dipstick for checking the oil level. However, it shows it at back behind the engine.

So what could this red dipstick be for?
 

·
Super Moderator
99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
Joined
·
22,982 Posts
Then please disregard my post. I do not have experience with the 2008 350s.

Hopefully somebody that has an identical car can post a diagram or picture.
 

·
Registered
E350 4M 06
Joined
·
2,744 Posts
The front red dip stick is for the engine oil, the rear capped tube is for the transmission access and it does not have a dip stick, it has a breakable cap. If you want to check the transmission oil you need to buy a dip stick and a replacement cap for that purpose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thanks for the clarification. I don't know if it is because I have a 4Matic or what, but the 2008 Manual shows the oil dipstick behind the engine (near the firewall). However, in reality, on my '08 E350 4Matic the dip stick is on the front passenger side of the engine.

Weird, but hope this helps others.

My oil change went smoothly with my topsider.
 

·
Registered
2012 E350
Joined
·
142 Posts
Did my first oil change today, on my wife's 2009 E350, using this procedure. I gotta say that this is the only way to go. I used the Costco top side extractor, which was probably not at good as the Mityvac, but it still was an easy job. This extractor required me to continue to pump the unit until the oil was completely dry. I think the Mityvac builds up vacuum and you don't have to work as hard. Anyways, it took my about 1.5 hours to do this oil change, and that was probably because I was getting a feel for everything. Plus, I didn't have to crawl under the car, pull out jack stands, and have oil splash all over the A-arms of my cars. The oil filter was simple to extract, with the Type B filter wrench from Autozone ($5).

The counter reset was a little confusing, probably because its a little intimidating when you first do it; otherwise, its pretty dang straight forward. I recommend doing it this way to anyone who is going to change out the oil.

On the next oil change, I will plug my little mini-compressor to the extractor, which should make it much faster and less work on my triceps. Oh, by the way, the brand from Costco is a Thorsen (9 liter unit) looks just like the Mityvac. Super easy removal of the old oil too. I pulled out about 8.1 Liters and put in about the same.

Great experience.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top