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OK...figured it out. It doesn't matter!! As the crank turns there is no power or exhaust stroke since the valves are all closed and the cams are not turning.
 

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You got it. 45° BTDC is always the same for the crank relative to the block. You set that in position and then the cams are set via the pins.

Note that the crank must be at 45° BTDC to allow the cams to rotate freely. Otherwise one or more pistons may be near the top of their stroke and if the cams were turned by hand, the valves could hit the pistons.

:eek:
 

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Does anyone know what 119 010 00 62 "seperator" does?
The one in this engine, (located under #4 plug hole in the right head.....you can just see it in jsap right head photo) is just as brittle as every other piece of plastic / wire in this engine and of course it broke.
The one I ordered as a replacement doesn't want to fit.
Are there 2 different designs?
This one has a small "key" moulded into it but there is no key way in the head for it to slide into.
This has a rubber (well, sorta rubber...more like granite) funnel (119 016 01 81) that fits over it and a breather pipe from the valve cover fits into.
Doesn't really seem to do anything.
Can I leave it out?
 

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This is part of the PCV system. There is a pipe in the valve cover that slides into this assembly. The funnel is supposed to be soft rubber, the lower piece (separator) is plastic. It plugs into two holes in the head, one small, one large. Sounds like you may have part of it still stuck down there. Not easy to access (or even view) with the car in the engine.

If you leave it out, there's a possibility of sucking some oil into the PCV system. I believe the function is to separate vapor from liquid so oil drains back into the sump, prevents liquid oil from being pulled into the PCV, and only blowby gasses are pulled into the PCV.

:)
 

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I've looked and looked, backwards and upside down using smoke and mirrors, and don't see any remains of the old one. (sucked them out with the vacuum). The small round part on the plastic seperator is serrated as if it is suppose to pressure fit into something and the larger round part has this plastic "key" along one side. I can't see any slot at all in the head for it to go into.
There are two other raised lines on the circumferance of the large plastic cylinder that I assumed was to pressure fit it in the hole.
When I do drop it in it is as quite loose.
Are there 2 different styles?
 

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I don't think there are two styles... all my engines have had the same parts. They are usually fossilized and break when you remove them (or look at the wrong). The smaller round part of the plastic separator slides into a hole in the head casting which holds it in place. The larger round section of the separator goes into an open area of the head.

You're not confusing the top & bottom of the separator, are you? There is also a serrated portion where the rubber funnel attaches on the top side. Probably would be a good idea if you posted a photo indicating which side you are inserting into the head.
 

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Yeah...I'd post a photo if I could, there there really is only one way for it to go in. The rubber funnel goes over the large diameter base with the seperator in it. Is this part suppose to be loose in those holes and held in place by the funnesl and valve cover?
I'll try posting a photo..never done it.
 

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See that piece of plastic on the right. It stops the plastic part from slipping down into the head. I assume I've set them up correctly....can't see any other way to put them in.
And the hole in the head for the small part is too big. Is there something missing?
It's almost as if there should be an insert for the serrated teeth to grab.
 

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Yup, those are the correct parts, and you have them set up correctly. The smaller serrated part should (gently) snap into a small hole in the head casting. The large round portion below the rubber funnel should set into a larger hole in the head. I'd almost suspect that something is still in the head, preventing it from seating fully? Or, maybe you are expecting it to be further down than it needs to go.

See photo below, of the funnel in place. I believe the top edge of the funnel sits a couple mm below the top edge of the spark plug channel. I need to get a good photo of this area with the separator and funnel removed:

 

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Dave are you able to get a picture of the head without the seperator in it? The large hole doesn't have a a slot in it for that square key on the right of the seperator in my picture. I can't see anywhere for that to fit...it just sits on the head outside of the larger hole. The smaller piece doesn't "snap" in, as I would have expected by it's design.
 

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Here is a picture of the spot that this part goes into. The small hole on the left looks as though there is a lip or ridge near the top. Maybe there is suppose to be an insert there but I can't find reference to one anywhere. You can also see that both holes are symetrical...no slot for that key. I'm confused and think I'll just put it all back together without this little part.
 

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Nice photo! Looks just like the one I took (below). Everything looks correct, you just need to press the plastic piece into place. It is a tight fit into the smaller hole. The larger portion is a slip fit. The thin piece of plastic on the right of your photo is just a stop to prevent it from going too far down and snapping the part in half. See attached where I modified your previous photo a bit.

Once it's installed, as long as the top edge of the funnel is flush with (or slightly below) the spark plug bore, it's fine. If it's above the spark plug bore, it's not seated properly.

 

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When the piece, with the funnel , is dropped into the hole it is just below the plug hole.
So it is in place but it is loose in the hole.
The serrations on the small side are not grabbing anything!
The whole piece just lifts right out with no resistance which is why I thought there must be an insert in the hole that the small side goes into.
Maybe the tube from the valve cover is suppose to hold/lock it in place 'cause you wouldn't want it coming loose under there with the engine running.
Do your books show anything like an insert or have you ever come across one in there?
 

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Dave...are there any hints on how to get these cam sprockets back on?....esp. the intake.
I've tried putting the inner part of the sproket on the cam first then the outer part, with the teeth, over the inner...that didn't work. With the two parts assembled I can't seem to get the whole sprocket to go on completely.
Of course fighting the spring just adds to the enjoyment.
Any hints?
Is there an order in which to put all the sprokets back on? Thanks
 

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Dave...are there any hints on how to get these cam sprockets back on?....esp. the intake.
I've tried putting the inner part of the sproket on the cam first then the outer part, with the teeth, over the inner...that didn't work. With the two parts assembled I can't seem to get the whole sprocket to go on completely.
Of course fighting the spring just adds to the enjoyment.
Any hints? Is there an order in which to put all the sprokets back on? Thanks
Oh, you mean the camshaft adjusters. Yeah, those are fun. There is a special tool (see below) but I've read that other people have done it without the fancy tool. You have to follow the directions in the FSM... click here, see the last 2 pages, steps 10-18. The special tool just makes it easier by clamping the spring down so you don't have to squeeze it the whole time.

WARNING: For the camshaft sprocket bolts, the FSM is NOT very clear on the torque values. Your engine most likely has the original bolts with separate washer, with a T30/T35 Torx head. These get torqued to 18Nm... NOT to 20Nm+60° rotation. There are newer style bolts with a T40 Torx head that are the stretch type. You don't need to replace the old T30/T35 bolts with the newer T40's, although it's ok if you do. The bad part about the T40/stretch bolts is that they are single-use and must be replaced each time. I'd stick with the old ones - just don't over-torque them.

:thumbsup:


 

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Done...used a 1 3/16 socket with a washer and long screw that screws into the small threaded hole that the armarure nut goes into. Worked fine. Thank God that job is done.
 

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Cool! Glad to hear you got it back together. FYI on the tool... it just needs to be wide enough to push against the outer face of the adjuster, and have female threads to match the center (large nut). Your solution was pretty slick though, great idea!

Is the engine running yet, or do you still have some assembly work left?

:)
 
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