Hello,
Just wanted to share with you my recent suspension spring replacement which lowered my S500 by about 1.5" My last lowering modification was cutting the front spring coils and lowering the back by adjusting the SLS hydraulic valve. I was satisfied with cutting one coil from the front spring but couldn't get the back down any further with the stock spring and valve adjustment. I also noticed the rear outer hydraulic bushing was real loose. They rears are actually grease filled vs. the front hydraulic liquid filled bushings. I know because I TORE them about and wanted to see what all the hype was about...
The H&R springs were about $300 and the inner and outer rear bushings were about $20/ea. This is not an easy DIY but more of a difficult DIY due to lack of proper tools. The crux of this job is pressing the bushing in and out. Having the proper $126 bushing tool would have saved a couple of hours but I sacrificed my back and $12 for some grade 8 nuts/bolts, and short pipe nipple. You'll also will need a rental "ball joint" press free from Autozone.
I didn't intend this to be a 100 step DIY procedure but just some pix to highlight some of the work. Oh, I forgot to mention after I installed the new H&R springs, the front was perfectly lowered with the stock 23mm shim (rubber spring isolator) but the back was still high. I ordered a pair of 8mm shims from the dealership for $9/ea and the height is perfect even with the hydraulic valve in the middle position. The shims come in 4 sizes: 23mm 18mm, 13mm, and 8mm. The back went from 23mm to 8mm. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them!
And the ride is still smooth and sweet! I barely noticed a negligible increase in firmness but my wife doesn't...she just wonders why a routine tire rotation takes so long...
Good luck,
Mo
Just wanted to share with you my recent suspension spring replacement which lowered my S500 by about 1.5" My last lowering modification was cutting the front spring coils and lowering the back by adjusting the SLS hydraulic valve. I was satisfied with cutting one coil from the front spring but couldn't get the back down any further with the stock spring and valve adjustment. I also noticed the rear outer hydraulic bushing was real loose. They rears are actually grease filled vs. the front hydraulic liquid filled bushings. I know because I TORE them about and wanted to see what all the hype was about...
The H&R springs were about $300 and the inner and outer rear bushings were about $20/ea. This is not an easy DIY but more of a difficult DIY due to lack of proper tools. The crux of this job is pressing the bushing in and out. Having the proper $126 bushing tool would have saved a couple of hours but I sacrificed my back and $12 for some grade 8 nuts/bolts, and short pipe nipple. You'll also will need a rental "ball joint" press free from Autozone.
I didn't intend this to be a 100 step DIY procedure but just some pix to highlight some of the work. Oh, I forgot to mention after I installed the new H&R springs, the front was perfectly lowered with the stock 23mm shim (rubber spring isolator) but the back was still high. I ordered a pair of 8mm shims from the dealership for $9/ea and the height is perfect even with the hydraulic valve in the middle position. The shims come in 4 sizes: 23mm 18mm, 13mm, and 8mm. The back went from 23mm to 8mm. If you have any questions, I'd be happy to answer them!
And the ride is still smooth and sweet! I barely noticed a negligible increase in firmness but my wife doesn't...she just wonders why a routine tire rotation takes so long...
Good luck,
Mo














