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Hi everyone.

For those who have a dead odometer (mine died at 375000km a year ago), U may want to read on.

Started with clicking sounds everytime I resetted the tripmeter. It had to be reseteed several times for the tripmeter to start moving. Then.. It died. Remained dead for sometime coz my mech said that a replacement would be $$$ and seconhand parts were due to fail anyway. So.. yours truly had to replace oil on a time basis...not mileage.

I finally opened up the thing and found a gear to be slipping. Had to fabricate a low-tech gear anti-slipper and repositioned the gears... and voila... it worked!!! Took more time to take the thing out and replace it than to actually repair it. Definitely a beginner's DIY.

Anyone interested in full details... lemmie know. I tanke sometime to reply, though, coz I'm not online 24/7.
 

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OK then. I won't act like a pro, since I too have failed once at doing this (nothing broke, though). Remember that although the odomoter's broken, take care not to damage the internal components, as the speedo still lives in the same housing.

BTW, when dead, my odometer was slightly displaced downward and inward on the right side. If U have this, THIS IS DEFINITELY YOUR REPAIR. if not... then its up to you.

First up, dismantle the intrumentation. The speedo cable needs unscrewing, while the others are just pull-outs. Good idea to take note of the orientation of certain 2-pin connectors. The multi-pin connector behind the left instrument cluster (fuel, oil pressure, etc) is the tightest to remove...may want to use somethin to pry it out.

Facing the back of the instrument cluster, we'll just work on the centre part. Notice 4 big phillps screws and 4 small flat ones in the middle? remove them. Then gently remove the white-cream plastic cover...but take extra special care with the small 'box' on the RH (as u are now facing it) side of the plastic cover. It controls the instrumentation lighting knob, and needs CAREFUL prying out.

Now U can C d metallic butt of the speedo and odometer. There's a long handle that extends out of view towards the RH side, so becareful in maneuvering the whole unit out of the cockpit housing. Needs some creative tilting. Simply pulling the unit straight out wont do... U could break stuff.

At long last... U can C the speedo and odo assembly in naked flesh. Check that all the gear spindles are in their sockets situated at the side of the clear plastic housing of the gear mechanism.

My unit's problem was that the odometer's 'stick' (that holds the gears together) slided leftways (when U face the speedo face). This caused the 'stick' to slide out of its hole, causing that displacement of the odometer I mentioned earlier.

The first time I pushed it back in, it fell out again, so I fabricated a piece of hard plastic to keep it in place by pressing on the left end of the 'stick' , which was a small gear.

Hope this helps. really beats buying a new one. Goodluck and tell me all bout it.
 

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man i love this forum. i didn't even notice when mine stopped since i'm not the regular driver. i thought maybe i did something when i was in the engine compartment. haha great thread!
 

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Another fix

Hi all,
My odometer was not working when I bought the car with some 180000+ Km's on its counter.
When opened, it apeared that the last 'metal' disc was slipping on the rod, that is the one that should drive the plastic numbered rollers.
The reason that this goes faulty is because of resetting the day counter to 000 when driving!
It should to be done when you are stopped.
I tried with a plastic adapter in an battery powered electric drill that the mechanism, basically was working and the little gear on the rod together with the worm, was making the rod spinning, just not the metal roller that drives the plastic rollers with the numbers.
With a full batery in my electric drill, I marked with a pencil the speed indicated at full speed.
Than I pulled of the pointer and the 2 screws that hold the face plate.
With small pliers, I pulled of the gear from the rod and pushed it out the whole set of rollers with a piece of straightened wire of about the same diameter (± 3mm).
You will see that at the end has a brass collar as end bit
Then I marked on the rod about where the metal rolled would be located and than using a small file on its side (straight teeth) I rolled it on a piece of wood, creating small teeth on the rod just where the metal roller would sit.
Than I pushed it back into its place at the same time pushing the piece of wire out.
The last bit took a bit of effort as the teeth had to pass thru the hole in the plastic housing until they went into the metal roller.
That too took a bit of force.
I had to support the metal roller with a pair of long nosed fine pliers so that the plastic rollers would not get crushed in the process.
Before replacing the plastic gear that finally will spin the rod, I checked that it was now spinning instead of slipping and the numbered rolls would now spin foreward.
Than I put the gear back on the rod and tested the whole once again with the electric drill.
To put the faceplate on with the 2 little screws is the easy part.
To put the pointer for the speed back in position is just a bit more complicated, but with the pencilmark and the electric drill after 3 intents it was marking the same as my pencil mark.
It's now all placed back in the car and with my TomTom I have checked that the speed indication on the instrument is the same as my Tom Tom is indicating.
All together a rather well spend Sunday morning!
Also, from the MB dealer I found out that the mileage on the counter is only some 400 Km's less that they have registed in their data base from some months before!!
No cheating on counter readout!
Cheers and I hope that this will help someone.
 

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Does anyone have any pics of this process?
 

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ok i cant figure out where to put the piece of plastic so it still rolls and doesnt effect one of the gears and someone people explain in further detail?
 

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fuel indicator light problem

hi
mine is stopped for long time, now i change lube oil in time base, my instrument tech said i should replace it all which cost $$$$$$. actualy now a time i'm not worried about that, i have another problem that when I turn on the light the small light of the lube oil pressure, fuel and temperature indicators will take some time to light(4 to 10 minutes, some time more) and the other two lights immediately turn on, any one has any idea?

Regards,

Abanoosi
The attached photo is typical to my meters
 

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