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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This applied to a '97 S320, and other years that have this construction. As "alex b" notes, his housing is different (92-93).

First, I want to thank MOS500. I couldn't have gotten past square one without MOS500's DIY:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1406221-diy-smoke-mirrors-revisited.html

I needed to replace the mirror for safety reasons, but for $$ reasons I chose to replace only the mirror - the original was a heat/dim version, and the glass was very dark - the insides had deteriorated. For now (the exact replacements go for $200+ - saving up for that) I just replaced it with a heat-only version (slightly thinner - poses no problem) from ebay, seller "www1carkr", $59 (+ $15 shipping - argh). The connectors of the two different mirrors are also different, such that the heat capability cannot be used. That combo heat/dim connector will just hang loose inside. But that's ok - at least I now have a mirror that looks like a mirror. And, once I fix the wires on the pax mirror, I'll be able to compare the two to see how well that feature works. I'm not sure if the heat function works or not on the pax side, since it looks like some bare wires in there - just getting into the season where it would be used.

The wires had some insulation missing, but the wires were good. I used a product called "Liquid Insulation Tape" - brand name "Star brite" - I used the tube version.

In order from mirror to the inside, I'll call the parts "mirror", "attach plate", "motor", "assembly (the hard-metal "thing" that everything is screwed to, channels for wires, etc).

BTW, the following steps do not match the pix one-for-one.

1) Remove mirror from car / housing (use MOS500's DIY)

2) Remove the mirror "very carefully" from the attach plate. The two are separated from the top first. The pix shows a flexible solid metal "wire" at the top of the back of the mirror which you just unhook. The pix show the 2 slightly flexible tabs that must be carefully bent away from the plate. They are at approx the 10 and 2 o'clock positions. Some of the pix show the mirror/plate/motor not attached to the assembly, but this is just for clarity. It is indeed attached at this stage. The motor cannot be removed from the assembly until the mirror is first removed from the attach plate.

3) The attach plate and motor can stay attached to the assembly (only 3 screws). The plate and motor are held together with just 1 central screw. If you do remove the motor, I've included pix to show what side is "up". I removed them just to get access to clean it up, and made accessing the motor wires a little easier.

*** PICTURE CORRECTION: in the picture (8th) that shows the motor back and attach plate in the upright position, with 3 tabs circled in yellow, the two tabs at 10 and 2 o'clock have nothing to do with the flex-tabs, which are a little lower than the 10 and 2 positions. These 2 tabs appear to fit such that they prevent rotation a bit. There are slightly raised circular segments they fit in between. The 2 flex-tabs engage on the edge of the attach plate, into 2 little indentations, as is seen in the 2nd picture, where the flex-tab is not quite engaged into the indentation.

4) Where the upright shiny metal triangular tabs contact the assembly (I'll call them the contact tabs) clean that area and put some grease on the assembly's contact tabs. The tips of the triangle pieces move all around there when you move the mirror.

5) With the attach plate and motor attached to the assembly, and all wires connected, and the new mirror ready to be attached, tilt the bottom of the plate into the bottom of the mirror back. There are two tabs at around the 8 and 4 o'clock positions that go under two tabs on the mirror back. They don't click in place -- they just go under them. Grabbing the entire assembly, gently but firmly press the middle and then the top of the attach plate against the mirror back until you hear and see the two flex-tabs (the 10 and 2 o'clock tabs) on the mirror back click into place. The last tab to go into position is at the very top of the plate, and it simply lays into a cutout on the mirror back - it also does not click into place - it's just sets in place.

6) Move the flexible solid metal "wire" at the top of the back of the mirror into place. If the two flex-tabs were to break (they also prevent the plate from rotating), this "wire", along with the 8 and 4 o'clock tabs, would keep the plate attached to the mirror back. The top tab would then be all that keeps the plate from rotating. If there would be any rotation, you would see the mirror move clock-wise or counter-clockwise a little in the housing.

7) On the assembly, move the metal bar behind the central plastic clip. Insert the assembly into the housing. This little bar will click behind two tabs in the housing, and it will now be secured.

8) Put mirror back on car.

9) My new mirror came with a clear plastic sheet cover. After verifying the mirror tilted and folded okay, I finally removed it.

Like brain surgery, it's easy once you know how.
 

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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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Discussion Starter #2
2 More Pix

2 More Pix

Cheers, Dave
 

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Hello,

I have a '97 S420, and I am trying to secure my mirror to the housing, it seems that my mirror is not attached, it does not move like it suppose to. I have taken the entire mirror off the car to try and fix it. I see two small white tabs on the assembly, do the mirror snap on these, I have snap them on, but they just come back off, is there something I'm missing?

Luke
 

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'84 300DT, '97 S320
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Discussion Starter #4
Luke1 - sorry, man - just noticed your post tonight. Could you take some pictures? I'm having trouble visualizing the white tabs.

Thx
 

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1998 S600 LWB 2011 GLK 350 4matic 2013 Sprinter 2500
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Small success on my left side mirror fix. Removed the mirror and glass. Snipped the 4problem wires attached (barely) to the glass. Liquid taped the crumbled wires in the expected area near the motor connector. A little Tri-Flo on the mechanisms, and everything looks ok.
 
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