Despite the owner's manual admonishment to have a dealer replace the High Intensity Discharge (HID) Xenon bulb, here is a way to do it yourself. Incident to replacing the bulb, this thread also discusses how to remove and replace the headlamp assembly. It does NOT discuss Xenon or Bi-Xenon upgrades from halogen, or which bulb color is best (I stayed stock, with 4300K Osram/Phillips bulbs). For discussions on the latter subjects, see http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1414470-headlight-tail-light-upgrade-references.html and please limit posts on those topics to the links there.
1. There is absolutely no room for one's hands for replacing the bulb - including replacing the retaining ring and the igniter, and plugging the igniter back in, without removing the entire headlight assembly.
2. I know the foregoing because I tried it without removing the assembly. The result: Cramped and battered hands, and because it is impossible to see what one is doing and getting everything precisely lined up is critical, I managed to break 2 tabs on the bulb igniter, requiring replacement. Looking at the way everything goes together, replacing the bulb is simple once the headlight assembly is removed or partially removed. Doing so without removing the assembly is just about impossible, in no short measure because of the extremely short wire length on the electrical connector to the igniter, and the fact that the connector is in an extremely tight space and is completely out of sight when you try to plug it in. Additionally, a small tab in the female portion of the plug blocks the male portion until the igniter is in place and engaged with the bulb, so you cannot plug it in while it is in a position that can be observed. Nice going, MB!
3. The igniter for the '03-06 W220 is MB part number 220 820 4985, and the two large MB dealerships in my area sell it for $995.00 plus tax. No, that is not a typing error. Yes, with tax that's over $1,000, for the part pictured in the link below - an outrage. The Bosh (Litronic) part number is 4 1 307 29 076.
4. I was able to purchase the part from Xenon Bulbs Direct, AL Bosch Litronic 1 307 329 076 Xenon HID Igniter D2S D2R - XenonBulbsDirect.com for $130 plus shipping, just under $145. The part was to be shipped from a warehouse in the U.S, the UK or France. Although the receipt stated delivery in 2-3 days, the part was out of stock in the U.S. and it was shipped from the U.K - and took two weeks to arrive. There are lower prices on ebay, but I prefer not to buy electronics there. There were also much lower prices direct from sources (generally around $48 for the part plus $34 for shipping) in China, but I did not want an extended wait. The exact same part is also used by BMW, Mini Cooper and Volkswagen, but I did not price it at any of those dealerships; and my part, when it arrived, came in a box labeled for VW and Audi, though it carried exactly the same Bosch part number as the one that came out of my car.
First, the good news: There is no need to remove the wheel well liner, or the bumper cover, to remove the headlight assembly. Second, Eric's post below does cover what you need to do even for an HID Bi-Xenon system, despite the exceptions listed in the document.
5. Some caveats:
1. There is absolutely no room for one's hands for replacing the bulb - including replacing the retaining ring and the igniter, and plugging the igniter back in, without removing the entire headlight assembly.
2. I know the foregoing because I tried it without removing the assembly. The result: Cramped and battered hands, and because it is impossible to see what one is doing and getting everything precisely lined up is critical, I managed to break 2 tabs on the bulb igniter, requiring replacement. Looking at the way everything goes together, replacing the bulb is simple once the headlight assembly is removed or partially removed. Doing so without removing the assembly is just about impossible, in no short measure because of the extremely short wire length on the electrical connector to the igniter, and the fact that the connector is in an extremely tight space and is completely out of sight when you try to plug it in. Additionally, a small tab in the female portion of the plug blocks the male portion until the igniter is in place and engaged with the bulb, so you cannot plug it in while it is in a position that can be observed. Nice going, MB!
3. The igniter for the '03-06 W220 is MB part number 220 820 4985, and the two large MB dealerships in my area sell it for $995.00 plus tax. No, that is not a typing error. Yes, with tax that's over $1,000, for the part pictured in the link below - an outrage. The Bosh (Litronic) part number is 4 1 307 29 076.
4. I was able to purchase the part from Xenon Bulbs Direct, AL Bosch Litronic 1 307 329 076 Xenon HID Igniter D2S D2R - XenonBulbsDirect.com for $130 plus shipping, just under $145. The part was to be shipped from a warehouse in the U.S, the UK or France. Although the receipt stated delivery in 2-3 days, the part was out of stock in the U.S. and it was shipped from the U.K - and took two weeks to arrive. There are lower prices on ebay, but I prefer not to buy electronics there. There were also much lower prices direct from sources (generally around $48 for the part plus $34 for shipping) in China, but I did not want an extended wait. The exact same part is also used by BMW, Mini Cooper and Volkswagen, but I did not price it at any of those dealerships; and my part, when it arrived, came in a box labeled for VW and Audi, though it carried exactly the same Bosch part number as the one that came out of my car.
First, the good news: There is no need to remove the wheel well liner, or the bumper cover, to remove the headlight assembly. Second, Eric's post below does cover what you need to do even for an HID Bi-Xenon system, despite the exceptions listed in the document.
5. Some caveats:
a. See Eric 342340's posts #3 and #7 at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w22...orums/w220-s-class/1571984-instructions-removing-head-light-control-module.html, especially the cautions.
b. Turn off power consumers - COMAND units, air conditioning controls, before beginning.
c. Disconnect the battery ground (black lead) before beginning. HID systems deliver approximately 20,000 volts to start the bulb, and you don't want to tangle with that.
d. Turn your light switch to ON and then back to OFF to discharge any residual voltage in the system.
e. Print out post #14 at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1302190-ive-had-2.html#post2216730 - you will probably need it after disconnecting the battery. It is the "Resets" guide from the Encyclopedia. Indeed, I did have to reset my pre-safe system, clock, and seat & steering wheel settings after multiple battery disconnects.
6. Taking it apart (this is just to familiarize you with what you will see if you DON'T remove the headlight assembly; again, I recommend that you DO remove it):b. Turn off power consumers - COMAND units, air conditioning controls, before beginning.
c. Disconnect the battery ground (black lead) before beginning. HID systems deliver approximately 20,000 volts to start the bulb, and you don't want to tangle with that.
d. Turn your light switch to ON and then back to OFF to discharge any residual voltage in the system.
e. Print out post #14 at http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/1302190-ive-had-2.html#post2216730 - you will probably need it after disconnecting the battery. It is the "Resets" guide from the Encyclopedia. Indeed, I did have to reset my pre-safe system, clock, and seat & steering wheel settings after multiple battery disconnects.
a. Once you have removed the outer cover (shown in your owner's manual; it is rectangular, clips at the top, and is easily tilted back and removed; see last photo) you will see the back of the igniter (the orange and black rectangular part in the first photo). You will also see how little space is available for you to work, and you will NOT see the connector that plugs into the side of the igniter. Again, I do not recommend replacing the bulb while leaving the headlight assembly in place.
b. The second photo shows the receptacle for the bulb itself; the igniter, retaining ring and bulb have been removed. The receptacle is slotted so that the bulb will fit in only one way, and the bulb will not rotate as you rotate the other components into place - however, nothing holds it in place until you have managed to find the slots in the retaining ring (third photo) and properly install it with the metal contact on the bottom by rotating it into place (the side of the ring not shown is also labeled "top"). The bulb retaining ring itself is in the fourth photo.
c. The fifth photo shows the tabs and the connectors on the igniter. The igniter will go in only one way; it must engage posts on the bulb (third photo) as well as the slots on the retaining ring, and it must be plugged in after it is rotated into place.
b. The second photo shows the receptacle for the bulb itself; the igniter, retaining ring and bulb have been removed. The receptacle is slotted so that the bulb will fit in only one way, and the bulb will not rotate as you rotate the other components into place - however, nothing holds it in place until you have managed to find the slots in the retaining ring (third photo) and properly install it with the metal contact on the bottom by rotating it into place (the side of the ring not shown is also labeled "top"). The bulb retaining ring itself is in the fourth photo.
c. The fifth photo shows the tabs and the connectors on the igniter. The igniter will go in only one way; it must engage posts on the bulb (third photo) as well as the slots on the retaining ring, and it must be plugged in after it is rotated into place.
