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Im also making these adjustable camber arms, but i end up buying the rod ends from ebay from this seller
Econ 5 8 x 5 8 18 Male LH Rod Ends Heim Joints Heims | eBay
he has the other one too..
It looks like a good quality and you cant beat the price.
You'll get what you paid for. Those are very prone to making all kinds of noise. The balls in the heims tend to loosen and wear quickly. You should really stick with the nylon/rubber inserted ones, which more closely match the OEM camber rod ends! :|
 

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i have a question about the bushing from thespeedshop
is the hole bolt as wide as the actual bolt? or i have to buy some kind of a adapter bushing to fill out the gap if there is any?
 

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i have a question about the bushing from thespeedshop
is the hole bolt as wide as the actual bolt? or i have to buy some kind of a adapter bushing to fill out the gap if there is any?
No adapter/sleeve needed... The bolt hole on the Speedway ends is the exact same diameter as the OEM bolt hole. :wink
 

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thank you syfi, thats nice to know!
the oem bolts will work right though? i just need to get those 8 washers?
Nope, the 4-bar rod ends already come with the nylon inserts. 2 ea. that you press in on each side of the rod end with the metal sleeve inserted afterwards. What you see in your picture is what you get. Some people have inserted a 1/2" fender washer on each side of the rod end to take up any slop from stress on stretching the holder part, but mine fit perfect without washers. :grin
 

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i have a question about the bushing from thespeedshop
is the hole bolt as wide as the actual bolt? or i have to buy some kind of a adapter bushing to fill out the gap if there is any?[/IMG]
That depends. There are early and late rear wheel carriers / knuckles and the bolt holes are 1mm different, the early are larger (13mm), the later ones are smaller (12mm). The break point was somewhere in the very late 1990's.

I don't know what size the aftermarket eyelet is, sorry.
 

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Specs on the Speedway Rod ends...

Overall width: 1.370"
Rod end width: 1.050"
Rod end I.D.: 1.125"
Steel sleeve O.D.: 0.750"
Steel sleeve I.D.: 0.500"
Threaded shaft length: 1-7/8"

 

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so with these arms wouldnt my rear toe get all messed up? i removed the oem camber arm and the wheel is not just cambering, but also the toe moves too.
 

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so with these arms wouldnt my rear toe get all messed up? i removed the oem camber arm and the wheel is not just cambering, but also the toe moves too.
The toes are already set or you would be lossing all of your tread. These are mainly used to eliminate the wear many get from lowering the cars and getting excessive wear on the inner tread of the rear tires. These will simply stand the tire up straighter by pushing or pulling the top of the tire in or out according to how you adjust. You're not messing with the toe so it remains the same.

When you remove the OEM arm and insert the Adjustable one you'll have the adjustable one set the same length as the oem one. A degree or 2 adjustment to the adjustable arm simply moves the top of the tire straight in or out. The toe, which would move the front or back of the tire in or out is factory set to keep the tire straight and is non-adjustable, as it should be.

:wink:smile
 

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i have a question about the bushing from thespeedshop
is the hole bolt as wide as the actual bolt? or i have to buy some kind of a adapter bushing to fill out the gap if there is any?
Very close but not exact... MBZ bolt is 12mm in diameter. The Speedway bushing has an ID of 1/2". This makes the installation of camber arms easier, but there potentially is some slop. Is it acceptable, probably so since the potential of movement is minimal. The benefits of reducing the overall camber most likely outweigh any of the negative. That being said...

If you want something closer, I used a brass sleeve made from tubing from my local ACE hardware store. If you have access to metric brass tubing even better. 1/2 OD with a wall thiness of .014". Utilmately, you get an inside hole with diameter of about 12.3mm.

Also, don't be alarmed that my gold threaded sleeve is 10" long rather than 9", mine setup is for a W220 where the upper arm is longer.
 

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Very close but not exact... MBZ bolt is 12mm in diameter. The Speedway bushing has an ID of 1/2". This makes the installation of camber arms easier, but there potentially is some slop. Is it acceptable, probably so since the potential of movement is minimal. The benefits of reducing the overall camber most likely outweigh any of the negative. That being said...

If you want something closer, I used a brass sleeve made from tubing from my local ACE hardware store. If you have access to metric brass tubing even better. 1/2 OD with a wall thiness of .014". Utilmately, you get an inside hole with diameter of about 12.3mm.

Also, don't be alarmed that my gold threaded sleeve is 10" long rather than 9", mine setup is for a W220 where the upper arm is longer.

IMPORTANT UPDATE (2/12/2017) : Some members have noted that the metal insert included with the 4-bar ends have a inside diameter of 1/2", which could cause the smaller diameter bolt (12mm) that holds the end onto the bracket to "clunk". One of our members has found a properly sized insert that should solve this problem. These inserts have the same O.D. and length as do the Speedway sleeves but with slightly thicker wall with a 12mm I.D., which fit the bolts more tightly. They can be procured from Iron Rock Off Road. You'll need 4 ea to fix the 2 camber set....

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/92038.html

No slop with the iron rock offroad sleeves...


Left is iron rock, right is speedway...


A Special Thanx to Jason Hudson!
 

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Another useful note. On the W210 the camber arm (per this guide) and the semi-trailing trust upper diagonal arm are mounted extremely close to each other, unlike W202. So to get any meaningful camber adjustments, I will be building a second one of these arms. Will report back.
 

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Another useful note. On the W210 the camber arm (per this guide) and the semi-trailing trust upper diagonal arm are mounted extremely close to each other, unlike W202. So to get any meaningful camber adjustments, I will be building a second one of these arms. Will report back.
Um... I'm not sure what you mean, but the W210 camber arms are the same type and location as on the 124, 129, 201, 202, 203, 208, and 170/171 chassis. Maybe other chassis as well.

Photo attached of Megan Racing MB-0310 camber arms on a W210.

:nerd
 

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