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'84 300DT, '97 S320
682 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This was done on a '97 S320, made in Dec '96.

There were a few changes to the W140 clusters, and they didn't all happen together (I'm still researching what-changed-when).

The clusters had 2 (maybe 3?) odometer revisions:
A) All mechanical (analog)
B) I think partial digital
C) All digital

The odometer can be set with HHT on vehicles as of approx. 06/96. To be sure it can be set like this, the display in the instrument cluster comes on when the door is opened. (I don't know what HHT means yet.)

There were 2 different shape of electrical connectors in the back:
A) 2 Circular up to approx. 05/96 - they just pull out
B) 2 Rectangular as of approx. 06/96 - the grey vertical U-shaped "levers" pivot/rotate downward, after pushing down on a little tab that prevents the lever from moving, and in the process helps push the black connector up and out of the socket a little.

There were supposed to have been 2 versions of "removal side-notches" so you can pull the cluster out (poster gyrate thinks only one version was made - need a picture of the 2nd version). ALLDATAdiy shows the two, calling them version A and B, but no mention of "when" they changed :

A) Notches (about 9 of them) very close to the front / lens-side, and part of the black main housing
B) Notches moved to about half-way back, still part of the black main housing


I'm not going show how to remove the cluster - that's been covered pretty well. The main reason I dug this deep was I was wanting to "rotate" my Tach gauge and clock into a better position. It turns out you cannot rotate any of the gauges. The "dials" are hard plastic "stickers", which might be able to be pried up and re-positioned.

How To Disassemble

Everything comes unscrewed, unlatched, pried loose or slid out.
There are 4 major pieces:

1) Black Back Cover (nothing connected to it). Why you'd remove this? To remove the circuit board from the white piece. Bulbs can be removed with this still in place.
2) Green Circuit Board (all bulbs and odometer module attached to it - a connector bar fits into the back of the odometer module). Why you'd remove this? To replace the odometer module.
3) White Plastic Piece (all gauges are attached; has a few clear plastic pieces that distribute light). Why you'd remove this? To replace any gauge. They are screwed into the front of the white piece. To replace or adjust/rotate any gauge faces, if you're brave enough. To clean the inside of the lens, or housing.
4) Black Housing / Lens


1) There are 6 T10 Torx screws holding on the back black cover, which can stay on when changing all bulbs (no specific picture - easy to find the screws).

2) There are 3 T9 Torx screws holding on the odometer module, which can probably stay in, after some more reviewing. The module does not attach to the white section (easy to see these too).

3) Remove the 2 warning-bulb info strips, because their ends stick out just a bit, and will be bent/cracked when separating the white piece from the housing. They just pull out. (See pic).

(Steps 4 and 5 can be in either order.)

4) In order to separate the white plastic piece from the front housing, on the housing bottom, 5 black tabs need to be lifted off of the white piece. These are the only things keeping the two pieces together. I cut some small cardboard shims an inserted them (see pictures). Start to separate the two pieces by inserting a small flat screwdriver between various white and black seams on the top. You can pull the bottom seam apart a little. There will eventually be gaps in the seam there, and in the squares of the 5 clips. Just pry all around, slowly and carefully.

5) To separate the circuit board from the white piece, each gauge has metal terminal posts that stick out towards the back of the white piece (see pic). I don't remember there being any screws holding the circuit board to the white piece. Gently pry the circuit board form the white piece - I placed a flat screwdriver between the two all around, of course being careful not to pry on anything important. The posts will "click" away from the metal square post-holders that are on the back of the circuit board. There's nothing to pry/push on them to make the posts release quicker. To replace the circuit board, the posts just click back into place - pretty cute connectors.


To remove any gauges, they're all connected with a few Torx screws.

I think that's about it.

I'll appreciate any suggestions / corrections.

BRgds, Dave H.


nothing broken. finally!
2,619 Posts
very nice. well ive pulled up to a 98 north america and its the same thing. the notches are part of the cluster face. there are 2 PNs depending on color. From 1995 and up. so 95-99 are identical by mercedes data

the bulletin says don't pull on the actual notches. where you picture has that drawing <<><>><>< on it, bottom where the white and black halves meet is the place to pull. you can pull on the notches as originally intended but if you have a tight cluster it may snap off the whole cluster face.

picture illustrates that area perfectly.
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