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2002 ML500 113k and 2006 S430 43k
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Discussion Starter #1
1999 E430 162k miles. I use Mobil 1 10w-40w oil.

I have had this car 30k miles and changed oil every 10k miles. Every time my oil filter is very dirty, like you can see from my picture. Dirt is not metallic if I put it between my fingers it will brake down, no big particles. My question is where it comes from?

Engine runs fine, no error codes.

Vesa

 

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Hi, Vesa, and welcome to the forum. My first question is why you are using the wrong oil and filter? Is this something you're buying at the local auto parts store? There is very little you can find there that is proper for your car, most of us shop online at places like autohausaz.com for the best prices and service. (The only Mobil1 oil that meets the MB spec for your engine is 0W40, not any other.)

You should be using the fleece FSS spec filter and not the paper element. While I can't be certain, I suspect what you're seeing is some combination of a breakdown of filter media with a carbonization of the oil, almost like a sludge. That may be also related to not having the proper oil in it.

In any event, I'd immediately start using the proper filter AND oil (change it now, even if it's a recent change) and then accelerate your next couple of oil changes. You might also consider dropping the lower oil pan to see if you have other evidence of residue or sludging; if you do then there are other things to consider to get it cleaned out.

This is what your filter SHOULD look like (this obviously is a new one):



Good luck.
 

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(The only Mobil1 oil that meets the MB spec for your engine is 0W40, not any other.)
Well that's only if you want the extended interval (15k miles I believe). Otherwise, any quality full synthetic that is the proper weight will be fine for 10k miles.

I do agree about the filter. For how infrequent oil changes are, the proper OEM filter and new o-rings are inexpensive insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Last time my local store did not have mann filters so had to settle with that one.

Normally I have used mann or Boch.

I still get same amount dirt no matter what filter I use.

0w-40 oil could make so big difference? or dirt come from example broken or old piston rings letting gases go by.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If previous owner used cheap oils. Could those oils have left the dirt inside engine and now the my oil is washing it out??
 

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Well that's only if you want the extended interval (15k miles I believe). Otherwise, any quality full synthetic that is the proper weight will be fine for 10k miles.

I do agree about the filter. For how infrequent oil changes are, the proper OEM filter and new o-rings are inexpensive insurance.
This is where some differ. However, your statement "that's only if you want the extended interval (15k miles I believe)" is blatantly false. It's not "only" if you want extended interval. It's if you want oil that meets the spec for your engine, regardless of the interval.

Personally, I will only put oil into my car that meets the MB spec for my engine. After all, they are the ones that designed, engineered and built the engine and designed the oil spec to properly protect it and ensure it will deliver the best life possible if properly maintained.

Most oils, synthetic or otherwise, do not meet the MB spec. The approved list is in the stickies, and there are many oils on it. (The one MM mentions you cannot find on store shelves, the Mobil1 5W40 on store shelves is not MB spec for these engines.) The ONLY Mobil1 you can walk into a store and buy that meets spec is 0W40. If you don't like that viscosity, there are several other choices on the list offered by other manufacturers.

SO, if you're not running spec oil, then what is your standard? Whatever is on sale? Whatever the store has on hand? Whatever marketing crap you read on the web? Whatever had a rebate?

AND, how do you determine if the oil is properly protecting your engine? Do you then change it sooner? And if it has the wrong flow characteristics or shear strength or additive pack, does it matter how often you change it? Are you submitting your non-spec oil to analysis with a competent lab, or just going with your gut?

While I'm a fairly intelligent guy, I'm not a metallurgist, chemist, engineer or scientist. I'm not competent to weigh all of those variables and determine if any of the other non-spec oils will protect my engine as well as (much less better) than the spec oils. Thus, I conclude that the better course is to use spec products rather than roll the dice.

As always, your methods may vary.
 

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2001 E320 4-Matic
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I'd run a magnet over the mystery material just to see if any is ferrous. Maybe even shorten your oil change interval if you want to run 10w-40 & non-fleece filter. With that much dirt or carbon build up I would be inclined to change the oil more frequently to avoid overloading the filter, decreasing the flow ability, and ultimately it will not be able to hold all of the contaminants.

How is your intake system? I am just wondering if all of that is carbon or if you are getting dirt past air filter etc..
 

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Last time my local store did not have mann filters so had to settle with that one.

Normally I have used mann or Boch.

I still get same amount dirt no matter what filter I use.

0w-40 oil could make so big difference? or dirt come from example broken or old piston rings letting gases go by.
If previous owner used cheap oils. Could those oils have left the dirt inside engine and now the my oil is washing it out??
You're using a non-spec oil now. Yes, some of the accumulation could be from the PO, but you're still in the same boat.

If you had broken piston rings, you'd have lots of other issues.

And yes, running the wrong spec oil (or running spec oil too long) can indeed make a difference. Every oil has the capacity to sludge, for example, and once that happens, it's a long process to get rid of it. The oil you're running is also the wrong viscosity, as well as not having the proper additive pack to meet MB spec. You might as well be running any other quality oil, regardless of whether it is synthetic.

Personally, I would drop the lower oil pan and check things out. If it shows signs of sludging, I'd use one of the treatments on the market to clean it up. But unless you open it up, you won't know.

And I'd also stop using non-spec oil and never use any silly excuse to install the wrong filter. The store you normally use is out? What about the MB dealer down the street? Or the Chrysler dealer, for that matter?

However old your car and however many miles it may have on it (or had on it when you bought it), remember that it was a highly-engineered quality piece of machinery that cost a good bit over $50,000 when new. The fact that it's now old does not change any of that, does it?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I changed airfilter when I bought the car and again 2k miles ago so that should not be the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Found this explanation from Mobil.com about 10w-40 i have used

I think I will change oil now in 5k intervals until dirt is gone

Features and Potential Benefits

Mobil 1 High Mileage oils are made with a proprietary blend of high performance synthetic basestocks fortified with an additive system designed especially for higher mileage vehicles. Mobil 1 High Mileage oils are especially recommended for high mileage vehicles even those that have used lower quality conventional oils. (Note 1)

Note 1 -- If your engine has excessive sludge deposits due to less-than-adequate maintenance practices, Mobil 1 High Mileage can help by reducing the sludge left behind in your engine. For severe cases of sludge, short oil change intervals (3000 - 5000 miles) are recommended for the first 2-3 oil changes as reduction of the sludge takes place. In cases of engine damage that may have resulted from poor maintenance, even Mobil 1 cannot remedy years of neglect.
 

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However, your statement "that's only if you want the extended interval (15k miles I believe)" is blatantly false.
229.5 only exists to give you the longer interval by way of better anti-sludge properties.

There is nothing stopping you from using 229.1 or 229.3 in an M113.
 

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First, your 10W-40 will only serve to continue the problem you have - it is the wrong chemistry for the W210.

At 162K miles - 132K from other people - you have a sludge problem that will not represent any real difficulties to you - however, it's your choice how to deal with it.

Some would choose to go aggressive - but in fresh synthetic any weight with either MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) or Seafoam - to dissolve the sludge up into the oil quickly, then do a change out. There is something to be said for that attack.

There are other less agressive products that can be used - checked the Oil Guy about those.

The longer term correct thing would be 0W-40 (yes, that is the correct chemistry for sure) and change every 5K miles with fleece filter - it won't clear for another 15K-20K for sure.



)W
 

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I believe the dirt is sludge deposited in the engine by the previous owner, and broken loose by your synthetic oil. I would continue what you are doing, but switch to a shorter change interval as you suggested.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
this problem has been solved.... totaled the car on I-4, just my luck... I just fixed the A/C...arrrgggg

Some one lost control of their van front of my, my choices were get run over by 18 wheeler right lane, hit railing and van on left or head on just van, I chose front axle of the van....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I hit the brakes at 70 miles per hour no idea really what speed i hit him but i got some bruising from seat bealt and hit my knees but other wise ok. I guess because hit was to the corner air bags did not deploy.

Could have been so much worse, specialty for the other party, he was extremely lucky he started his spin from ramp on right lane and spinned cross all lanes to the left, he just missed by split second two 18 wheelers going 70 miles per hour to same direction I was going.
 
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