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Discussion Starter #1
Well started Dieter up ,runs really smooth,drove around the block a few times the let him idle on the street for about 10 min. fully warmed up ,temp gauge about 80.
then revved him up and starts to sputter and dies.try restart ,no go, let him sit for 20 min ,try again fires right up ,motor silky smooth.any idea's ?
ovp replaced yesterday,thought that was the problem when it died at a red light 2 weeks ago.
 

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Sounds like a vacuum leak, it might be small enough to not create an issue at idle or when you throttle smoothly but pops up on you when demand more air real quick or you let out the throttle after high demand.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
well it seems, happens after the engine is fully warmed up.would barely crank over and not start,really draining battery. then let it sit 20 min. and fires right up.weird?
not sure If is fuel related ,could be. seems like I heard a thunk sound drivers side by abs or coil area when it died?
what system would start failing once motor's fully warmed up? causing it to sputter out and die?:confused:
 

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DP, and after all you've been through. He bought a cheap OVP and that is what is in there now.
John, it only really makes sense after you get through about 10 or 15 pages of his stalling thread.
 

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If it's the new OVP - I didn't have anything to do with it ! :nono: :D

I think the car doesn't like being called Dieter ! :gay:

This thing has given you some hellish experiences - you'd almost qualify as an indie on MB W124's after all this !
 

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Yep, I would definitely let him work on mine.


And then I was wondering if the CIS-E control unit would be an issue as well as the fuel pump relay and anything else behind that battery (KLIMA...) that got "rained" on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Your not getting it! runs great cold the dies once it warms up. what causes that?my head hurts .sorry. cant work on it for a while.first have to do front suspension work on my 93 cougar,have to sell it because I have to many cars.the car runs good but horrible front suspension. once that gone I'll have the cash to put into Dieter and make that car run right.right now I would not drive it anywhere,it will strand you!
I enjoy working on cars its my hobby.lots of satisfaction after you fix it! I did a search and found some random posts and found same problems.what do you think? relay? http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=ik0rqz2kuvdze555450j3imx&[email protected]&[email protected]&year=1991&[email protected] & Air System&[email protected] Pump Relay

Sounds exactly like the problem I had on my 260E. Would stall at stoplights. Also if parked for short stop it was impossible to start unless I let it set for a few minutes. Solved completely by replacing the fuel relay module. (located behind battery in engine compartment). A 200$ item but solved the prob
Cheers, Larry

hey man,
My car would die ramdomly, have a weak idle. I took it to the dealer, they replaced 2 fuel pumps, ovp relay, idle controller- over 2k. Their work fixed nothing. I was so pissed I sued them and got my money back. Anywho, I fixed the problem by replacing the fuel pump relay. Behind the batt is a rack o fuses The first is the fuel relay, behind it is the kickdown relay. Good luck

the shemdogg

Had a similar problem even after replacing the OVP thing and fuel pump relay - lots of conjecture from several Benz gurus, but before taking the their next advice to replace the ignition module (>$1,000), I took it to Mercedes Benz of Tampa where the problem was diagnosed and cured by replacing the timing sensor.

Check your O2 sensor or Temp sensor. Also next would be the EHA valve and the fuel distributor.
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The end.

May also be the Potentiometer which is located on the opposite side from the EHA (Electro Hydraulic Actuator) Another cause could be the MAS control unit (near battery with a black I/O dial on it) it's a relay for both the fuel pump and AC compressor if the compressor doesn't work properly also then the MAS may be the issue
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I ad similar problem....in the shop like 6 times. The last time they replaced the "crankcase sensor" and it hasn't happened since. i also noticed car was running hotter than normal...this seemed to go away after i changed the oil. i wonder if it had broken down so much it wasnt lubricating well. no stalling since I did those 2 things. I don't know what a crankcase sensor is or does.
 

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Sounds like possibly, your battery is being drained. Have you checked/replaced your voltage reg? Have you put a VOM across your battery and watched your voltage raise as your rpms increased?

Kevin
 

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John,

Can't recall what bits you have swapped in so far so will throw this one in as well. Might be an idea to keep a running list and each time you have a problem post the list of things replaced !

Suggestion 1.
I found a post where guy had similar symptoms as yours where his would stall when the temperature rose above certain level when sitting in traffic or at lights. Culprit was the CPS (crank position sensor) which apparently is not very happy when it's not 100% and the engine got a bit warmer.

Suggestion 2.
Have you changed any of the fuel system. In particular the accumulator ? Wondering if it's losing pressure when it warms up because it certainly sounds like it is suddenly starving for fuel.

Good Luck - Keep The Faith It will All Come Good !

Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like possibly, your battery is being drained. Have you checked/replaced your voltage reg? Have you put a VOM across your battery and watched your voltage raise as your rpms increased?

Kevin
I did runs at 13.8 when car is cold and lights on.need to retest when its warmed up. seems fuel related . I'll probably throw a grand into this engine.that's why I got it so cheap i guess. PO did not like this car.probably left her stranded many times! did I tell you there's a new windshield in it,new paint ,new tint? PO cared more about the way the car looked than the way it ran.
 

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I did runs at 13.8 when car is cold and lights on.need to retest when its warmed up. seems fuel related . I'll probably throw a grand into this engine.that's why I got it so cheap i guess. PO did not like this car.probably left her stranded many times! did I tell you there's a new windshield in it,new paint ,new tint? PO cared more about the way the car looked than the way it ran.
OK, didn't know that. Need to establish baseline for the fuel system; fuel filter, fuel accumulator, electrical/ground connections with fuel pump(s), ICV valve hoses (look for cracks) and make sure you can here it rattle when you take it off and spray it inside with carb cleaner. Next I would check pressure at the fuel distributor when cold and after a run-compare.

Don't assume it's fuel though, unless you know for a fact the primary electrical system is 100%.

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, didn't know that. Need to establish baseline for the fuel system; fuel filter, fuel accumulator, electrical/ground connections with fuel pump(s), ICV valve hoses (look for cracks) and make sure you can here it rattle when you take it off and spray it inside with carb cleaner. Next I would check pressure at the fuel distributor when cold and after a run-compare.

Don't assume it's fuel though, unless you know for a fact the primary electrical system is 100%.

Kevin
the weird thing I just remembered is after it died and tried to restart ,maybe twice ,not a whole lot of cranking,seemed like something locked up in engine systems,another attempt to start would have drained batt fo sure.
let it cool 20 min fires right up no problem ,no load or anything.at this point could be anything.pretty sure engine itself is good.super smooth idling,you can rev it up sound great, no noises other than faint ticking under valve cover.
thinking electrical system,fuel system at fault.will work on it next week:surrender:
 

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the weird thing I just remembered is after it died and tried to restart ,maybe twice ,not a whole lot of cranking,seemed like something locked up in engine systems,another attempt to start would have drained batt fo sure.
let it cool 20 min fires right up no problem ,no load or anything.at this point could be anything.pretty sure engine itself is good.super smooth idling,you can rev it up sound great, no noises other than faint ticking under valve cover.
thinking electrical system,fuel system at fault.will work on it next week:surrender:
Almost sounds like when the car gets to normal operating temps and you stop and restart....starting primary voltage is going to ground through a component. I have invested myself in too many threads as of late; did you check the anti-stall relay for integrity?

Kevin
 

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If it's the new OVP - I didn't have anything to do with it ! :nono: :D

I think the car doesn't like being called Dieter ! :gay:

This thing has given you some hellish experiences - you'd almost qualify as an indie on MB W124's after all this !
Ray,
Face it, you an incorrigible tight-ass and the only thing that will help you, is finding yet a cheaper OVP than the one you found on ebay.:D:D;)

Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Also a/c system non functional.compressor not coming on ,fuses good . I've read mas unit can mess with fuel delivery and a/c compressor? I know I'm grabbing at straws,just getting a game plan in my head.
 

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Ray,
Face it, you an incorrigible tight-ass and the only thing that will help you, is finding yet a cheaper OVP than the one you found on ebay.:D:D;)

Kevin
Ohhhhhhh that smarts !!!

Will someone please remove that dagger blade from between my shoulders ?

I did find one, was made in Outer Mongolia at the "3 Pointed Yak Horns Motor Factory" in Ulan Bator. It was for a 1951 Vespa Sport Motor Scooter.
Just a shame it only had 2 pins on it ! :cool:
 
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