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Discussion Starter #1
Hello forum,

In a few days I will be doing a diesel purge and valve adjustment on my newly purchased 1983 300sd. I was wondering if anyone had any words of wisdom or things to look out for or any advice in general actually.

Anything and everything is greatly appreciated. I really love the car.

Thanks,

David
 

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2001 ML430, 1983 300SD, 2008 GL450
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Consider replacing the intake fuel lines in the engine compartment when you do the purge. Some cases of rough running appear to be related to air leaks at these points.

I recently expressed the conjecture that the improvements seen with the diesel purge operation are more related to tightening the clamps afterwards and therefor sealing air leaks than to the purge itself.

On the purge just follow the instructions you'll find on the net. It's a fairly easy process. I just ran an intake host into a 1 quart container and ran the cigar hose on the return into the same. Priming the system only took a few seconds and the engine started immediately. Make sure that the return line is well into the container. There is a lot of fuel coming out of there and can splash around a bit.
 

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1982 380SE AMG euro(parted out),1983 300SD "Good Girl", 1984 500SEL AMG euro "Bad Girl"
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Welcome to the w126 oil burner!!!

I LOVE my 83' SD and she loves me back. Given time you'll see what I mean. I'd do the valve timing first and see how she runs before I did the purge. More details about total mileage would be a help too. The purge is easy and if you've done the valves already then you can see if it had any effect. I replaced the injectors on mine at 240000 miles and it was a nice difference. Good luck and have fun!
 

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1987 420SEL
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Make sure you tighten the locks nuts VERY well! There's alot of vibration going on around there, so they need all the help they can get.
 

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1982 380SE AMG euro(parted out),1983 300SD "Good Girl", 1984 500SEL AMG euro "Bad Girl"
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there are 175000 miles on the car. it has rough idle at the moment. will be replacing ALL fluids.
Valves and purge are good starts. After that, motor mounts and shocks, ramp dampner bolt adjust/replace. Noises at idle can a lot of times be the airbox mounts being shot or the mounting plate underneath cracked, or like mine was..both! If the purge doesn't do much consider getting new Bosio nozzles at the age and miles your injectors have.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How long would a typical valve adjustment take? I'm not a mechanic but can follow instructions. What would you guys rate the degree of difficulty of this task?
 

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1982 380SE AMG euro(parted out),1983 300SD "Good Girl", 1984 500SEL AMG euro "Bad Girl"
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How long would a typical valve adjustment take? I'm not a mechanic but can follow instructions. What would you guys rate the degree of difficulty of this task?
You'll need the special valve adjust wrenches unless you're a cheapskate. Buy some thin crappy 14mm wrenches for $4.00 ea and bend them with a propane torch like the pro ones in the pictures online for $80 :) This will be a learned task as it seems to take a bit of fiddling to get the proper lash once you tighten the lock nuts down. I always seem to get some drift in them and it'll take me two or three tries with each one to get it right on. First time around I'd say you'll be there 2-3 hours. After a while it's maybe an hour from hood up to back down. It's not rocket science and I'd rate it a two on difficulty scale but a five on frustration the first time doing it :)
 

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First time around I'd say you'll be there 2-3 hours. After a while it's maybe an hour from hood up to back down.
Same estimate here. Also get some nitrile gloves. That oil is messy. Personally I'd cough up the money for the proper wrenches. By the time you do the job yourself twice you've paid for them in savings.

But if you do have a torch it doesn't appear difficult to make them yourself.
 

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1982 380SE AMG euro(parted out),1983 300SD "Good Girl", 1984 500SEL AMG euro "Bad Girl"
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Same estimate here. Also get some nitrile gloves. That oil is messy. Personally I'd cough up the money for the proper wrenches. By the time you do the job yourself twice you've paid for them in savings.

But if you do have a torch it doesn't appear difficult to make them yourself.
Ultra Ditto on those nitrile gloves!!!!!
 

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1987 420SEL
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Same estimate here. Also get some nitrile gloves. That oil is messy. Personally I'd cough up the money for the proper wrenches. By the time you do the job yourself twice you've paid for them in savings.

But if you do have a torch it doesn't appear difficult to make them yourself.
I made a set of wrenches that I sold with my 300D. I used the longest 14mm wrenches I could find, and bent them up with an O/A torch, and then ground about 0.075" off the side of the bottom one for clearance.

If you're going to make wrenches, you'd almost have to weld something to the ends of them as handles. With the bends, I really didn't have alot of leverage to crank down on the nuts as much as I'd have liked.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello Forum!

Well, I did the diesel purge and it was just AMAZING. Definitely one of the coolest things i've ever done. Running a car out of some stuff coming out of a welche's grape juice carton? Seriously.

About a minute into the purge there was noticeably quieter engine. I could not believe it. Replaced both fuel filters afterwards and did an oil change with some pure petroleum and the engine sounds so much better. Afterwards we looked in the Welch's bottle to see a ton a soot and black debris that was running through my baby's engine. I am so happy it is not there anymore but I bet there is more and can't wait for the next purge.

The next thing on the menu is a valve adjustment which I am a little apprehensive about considering it seems like a major job (taking the engine top apart?!). But am willing to give it a try. And then after that, new nozzles. I'm hoping sooner or later I can pull into traffic without having to have an officer block traffic for me so I can get up to speed.

I exaggerate. A little. Thanks for everyone's advice!
 
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