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2008 E350 4M, 2016 Audi Allroad, 2019 Audi Q5
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Uh Oh....OIL THREAD ALERT!!!

Reasons WHY you should run diesel API CJ-4 oil in your 103/104 if you are unaware..
Oil Alert For Older Cars | Eric Peters Autos
Labs done by: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
How to read the lab tests: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php --> click gas/diesel.
Calcium and elements below are additives. More the better.
Universal Averages I confirmed from blackstone are the M103 engine -- you can see most oils they sample have LESS additives+detergents than what mine is showing -- more than likely because anybody else uses non-diesel oils without these important additives.

Its time to change the oil on the wagon. This is the first time I have put Synthetic in her (the Rotella-T6). I did it after I resealed my front timing cover and no new leaks at all which is great....so there is a warning for those who are considering changing to synthetic...if you already have leaks, or have a leak that is close, its going to leak worse.
I am going to do the oil change with it, run for 6k mi then send it in for Analysis and report back in 6 months (yeh sorry for the uplifting thread title lol...) I just want to track everything.

Once I get my Rotella-T6 sample back, I will post it up so we can compare readings against both the Rotella-T non-synthetic cousin and Delo 400 non-synthetic....then once I have 6k on the Mobil1 synthetic, its gotta face off all 3 prior samples to find who is superior :D

So without more adue:
Here is the faceoff once I get all samples back:
VS:

VS:
VS:


Here are my prior samples from standard 15-40 Rotella-T and 15-40 Delo 400.
You can see so far the Delo 400 seems a better buy than Rotella-T due to more additives...but who knows "what" that means in terms of wear, but I'll take more additives for peace of mind :thumbsup:

Note: The higher metal wear shown below is probably due to the fact I have the original pre-chilled cam + rockers which are known to wear fast. Pre 89's -- you have them too.

Rotella-T NON-Synthetic 15-40

Delo 400 NON-Synthetic 15-40

Rotella-T6 5-40 Synthetic COMING SOON.
Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5-40 Synthetic COMING SOON
 

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Cruise Control
'87 300TD/'90 300D/'94 Quattro/'89 Vanagon TDI/'01 EV Weekender VR6
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52,233 Posts
I'm quite happy to run Delo in my entire fleet, including both gas and diesel engines
 

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2008 E350 4M, 2016 Audi Allroad, 2019 Audi Q5
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5,447 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yep, its a great choice for both Gas and Diesel. I won't choose Rotella-T over Delo 400 based on my findings now that I know. I think its slightly cheaper than Rotella-T too...no brainer!

Once I have the Mobil1 and Rotella-T6 synthetic data, I may run the following oil change for 10k and see what it looks like since I mostly do 80% freeway.
 

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1998 E300, 2006 R350
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491 Posts
I run Delo 400 in my 7.3 Powerstroke. Blackstone OA's consistently come back well. It's particularly hard on motor oil due to the injectors being pressurized and activated by the crankcase oil under high presure, so it is prone to shearing. I have found the Delo to be more resistant to shearing than Rotella (dino). It also has a very strong additive package which always comes back above average.
 

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95 E300, 91 300TE, 84 190D
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784 Posts
Cost

How much do you pay per liiter or quart of each?

How much does the Blackstone OA cost?

Thanks.
 

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2008 E350 4M, 2016 Audi Allroad, 2019 Audi Q5
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Discussion Starter #7
Delo 400 + Rotella-T are pretty much the same @ ~$12-14/gal. Rotella-T6 is ~$22/gal and Mobil1 HD Diesel Truck Synthetic is ~$26/gallon.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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17,408 Posts
+1 on buying Delo400 from Costco. Last time around, I bought around 100 gallons or so and I am getting ready to buy another batch in the very near future.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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36,732 Posts
Don't know how you guys read the report, but I see for example 18 irons on Delo and 13 on Rotella T.
It makes Delo coming with about 38% more engine wear, although I did ignore mileage difference.
I did test several oils on my Powerstroke and Rottella comes ahead of any competition on the market. Some will argue that I did not test Amsoil, but it is their problem.
Suprizigly T6 did not make big difference comparing to dino Rotella, but I still rather pay extra for extra protection of the synthetic, than not.
Weeks ago oil pump jammed on our 300DT and engine run some time with no oil pressure with no ill results. I prize synthetic for it.
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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17,408 Posts
Zinc (ZDDP)is the most important additive for these older engines to minimize component wear. It is abundant in Delo400, much less so in others.

These older engines were engineered, tested and factory filled with diesel grade conventional 15W-40 regardless of fuel type.
 

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E320/E250 Bluetec Ford F350 6.7l
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The distinction between S-grade oils for gassers and C-grade oils for diesels exist in Europe for at least 40 years.
We all want the best for our cars, so this is dilemma. Even the manuals for W124 call for cheap dino oils, we tend to seek newer MB publication with approved oils.
Here comes the problem how do they get approved. Mobil 1 is generating high iron in the engines, what is not good at all, yet it got approved by Mercedes.
This is like telling Californians that they keep the air cleaner by being forced to burn more of the stuff that has less and less gasoline in it.
 

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1984, 201.122, OM601.921, G717.410
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504 Posts
I run Delo 400 Multigrade SAE 15W-40 (API CI-4 PLUS) -- NOT LE CJ-4, which has less additive for new emission control devices. It is only available in 5 gal. buckets ($60) and 55 Gal. drums. In the U.S. you can find a distributor on the Chevron lubricant web site, often a heating oil distributor.
 

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1997 E320, 1997 S320
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2,946 Posts
m103 and m104 are pretty easy on oil, so doesn;t matter much what oil you using as long as it's not changed too late.
i get better analysis report on mobil1 hm 5w30 for 10k miles/1.5 years in the s320, then for rotella t 15w40 for 5k miles/4 months in the e320. metal wear was half less with m1 hm 5w30 then with rotella t 15w40.
 

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2008 E350 4M, 2016 Audi Allroad, 2019 Audi Q5
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Got my Rotella-T6 Synthetic 5-40 sample back...



I still think the brutal summer heat out here combined with the older style cam's on my wagons 103 is the reason for the higher metals. Detergent-wise, as you can see it has a lot more magnesium, but half the calcium detergent's....

So far in conclusion, ZDDP additives between all 3 oils tested seem to be about the same. I am going to contact Blackstone and ask for a little more information about the magnesium additive to see "what" it actually does since for whatever reason, the Rotella-T6 has a TON more of it.

Found this info too :) I find all this interesting....

Zinc (Zn):
Reciprocating Engines: Alloy in Brass, Anti-Wear Additive ZDDP, Galvanized Steel from filter canisters

Phosphorus (P):
Reciprocating Engines: Anti-Wear Additive ZDDP (ZincDialkyl- DithioPhosphate), Phosphate Ester, Phosphate Inhibitor found in Coolants

Calcium (Ca):
Reciprocating Engines: Detergent / Dispersant Additive, Calcium from water contamination, Lime Dust

Magnesium (Mg):
Reciprocating Engines: Detergent / Dispersant Additive, Alloy, Environmental Contaminant

Really good overview of all detergents:
http://www.synmaxperformancelubricants.com/PDFs/SynMax_UNV_Oil_Analysis_Presentation_with_Oil_Sample_Reports.pdf

Wear Metals ( Copper, Iron, Chromium, Aluminum, Lead)
These metals indicate wear on particular components in a compartment.
The particles reported in parts per million (PPM) indicates a wear
problem on a microscopic level before the problem can be detected by
conventional means. The essence of a wear problem is determined not
only by maximum limits for each metal, but more importantly, by a
relative increase or trend in one or more of these metals.
* Lead for racing applications, normally indicates the amount of racing
fuel in the oil from a leaded race fuel.
Wear Metal//Normal//Abnormal//Severe//Extra Severe
Iron 100 100-250 250-400 400+
Copper 40 40-100 100-200 200+
Chromium 40 40-100 100-200 200+
Aluminum 40 40-100 100-200 200+
Lead* 50 50-100 100-200 200+
Silicon 20 20-50 50-100 100+

^ so looks like I am nowhere NEAR any stage of worry for my wear. Plus its only showing valvetrain wear. I will bet the day I end up updating the cam + rockers will the later chilled version it'll drop to almost zero wear. The rest of the metal wear shows the durability of our engines, its almost no wear at all. 4ppm vs 50-100ppm normal on most other engines. This is our scientific proof of why the common knowledge is "the bottom end is bulletproof".
 

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MB W124 - 250 D - 1988 + W124/S124 Kombi 250TD-1992-527k kms = 327kmiles + W210-200E-2000-200kkm
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Hello to everybody !

For 6 months now, I am the new owner of a W 124-250D-1988 - no turbo, 5 cylinders and 5 speeds .

One month ago, I did the first maintenance of the engine as I didn't get any
information about the history of that car from the previous owner : no book, no records. Just 175.000 kms on the odometer which wasn't running anymore . Hum ! :(

I did change the engine's oil which according to the instructions of the maker should have been the traditional 15W40 ...mineral one ..uptill now.

What I took away from that engine was really thick and of a very dark black colour .

Without hesitation , I shifted from that mineral oil 15W40 for a 100% synthetic one but with some compromise .

Indeed, I choosed the 10W40 - Shell Hx7 - full synthetic then instead of the 5W30 used in modern engines. I also changed the oil filter .

As it wasn't really dirty, I only cleaned the air filter with the help of a air compressor .

I drove over 1.000 kms since that day .

Since then, I happily realized that the engine was running quiter with a big decrease in the traditional diesel " tac tac tac tac " noise .

I repaired the odometer myself too- in 2 times , but succeeded ! - and could calculate the consumption of gazoil .

The result isn't too bad , should I say . Indeed , I was positively surprised to use less than 7 liters of diesel per 100km ! Exactly 6,979 liters/100kms down from 7,35 before changing the oil and using the full synthetic one .

In other words, that means driving +/- 14.33 kms per liter ..on main roads .

To be correct, I am now driving more in the city and will do a new calculation next time I fill up the tank . I guess the number will fall down to +/- 12,5 km/liter .

Not bad for a 24 year old lady : a Benz of course ! :thumbsup:

Ciao ! :) Enjoy your driving !
 

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2008 E350 4M, 2016 Audi Allroad, 2019 Audi Q5
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Discussion Starter #17
The 5-40 Synthetic might be a good choice then to help with the cold weather.
 
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